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post #1 of 6 Old 11-12-2013, 05:49 PM Thread Starter
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EBPV Issues and Questions

Hey guys,

Since the temperature has dropped lately (I'm in canada), my truck has been hissing while driving before it has reached operating temperature. It goes away once operating temp is reached and the truck still operates fine both before and after temp is achieved. I have been doing my research and have pinpointed it to the exhaust back pressure valve. From what I understand, this is a very common problem with the turbos in the 7.3 engines and is not harmful to the engine (correct me if i'm wrong). I am just wondering if any of you guys have had this issue and if any of you have done anything to fix it. I have read about an EBPV delete and even that non EBPV pedestals are available or even routing a switch to engage/disengage the EBPV. Any info and advice is appreciated!

Thanks
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post #2 of 6 Old 11-12-2013, 06:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 7.3caseih View Post
Hey guys,

Since the temperature has dropped lately (I'm in canada), my truck has been hissing while driving before it has reached operating temperature. It goes away once operating temp is reached and the truck still operates fine both before and after temp is achieved. I have been doing my research and have pinpointed it to the exhaust back pressure valve. From what I understand, this is a very common problem with the turbos in the 7.3 engines and is not harmful to the engine (correct me if i'm wrong). I am just wondering if any of you guys have had this issue and if any of you have done anything to fix it. I have read about an EBPV delete and even that non EBPV pedestals are available or even routing a switch to engage/disengage the EBPV. Any info and advice is appreciated!

Thanks
Yes that is exactly what the ebpv does. All it is is a buttterfly valve that closes off the downpipe and puts a load on the engine and helps it warm up faster. It is absolutely ok for the engine. Yes alot of guys delete them but honestly if you live in a cold environment it definitely helps with warm up. I have mine wired to a switch so i can engage it anytime i want

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Originally Posted by access_max View Post
With the issues fixed a 6.0 can run circles around a 7.3.
2000 F-350 7.3L ZF6
Standard 7.3 mods
SCT tuned
8" Fabtech lift 13" total
5:13 Gears
46" Goodyear MVTs Military takeoffs
Bushwacker Cut-Out Fender Flares
Ranch Hand front and rear bumper
On-board air W/Semi horns

1995 F-350 7.3L E4OD DRW
Standard 7.3 mods
PHP Hydra W/Tony Wildman tunes
160/0 Injectors
T-500 HPOP
E-fuel Conversion
West Coast mirrors
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post #3 of 6 Old 11-12-2013, 11:00 PM
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if its cold a lot were you live keep it.
otherwise, just get a delete pedestal and high flow outlet and call it a day
next time my turbo needs to be removed im doing this mod.

99.5 f250 7.3 4x4 255k
PHP Phoenix, S&B, 4" Diamond Eye, Hpx, Stancor, RR Billet Wheel, RR AIH Delete, Autometer Gauges, Pro Comp leveled, Transgo Tugger, Billet TQ Converter, Warn Hubs, Int'l Up-Pipes, RR IC-Boots, Non-Ebpv Pedestal, High Flow Outlet, Hucorey's HPOP Lines, RR High Flow Fuel Fittings, RR OCR, Barder 360 Thrust Kit, 08 Tow Mirrors.

Dad-2000 7.3 108k miles, Autometer Gauges, Superchips 1705, RR AIH Delete, 6637, 4" Diamond Eye, BD Billet Wheel, TruCool Max
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post #4 of 6 Old 11-13-2013, 01:54 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the clarification guys. The hissing is very annoying while driving but if it's serving a purpose then I will put up with it. Rammstein (awesome name by the way lol), I am considering wiring mine to a switch. When do you engage/disengage it and do you use it as an exhaust brake at all? Would you recommend doing it or have any tips about it's purpose or wiring up a switch?
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post #5 of 6 Old 11-13-2013, 03:43 PM
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it is not a good idea to use it as an exhaust break.

you can read why on phps website.

99.5 f250 7.3 4x4 255k
PHP Phoenix, S&B, 4" Diamond Eye, Hpx, Stancor, RR Billet Wheel, RR AIH Delete, Autometer Gauges, Pro Comp leveled, Transgo Tugger, Billet TQ Converter, Warn Hubs, Int'l Up-Pipes, RR IC-Boots, Non-Ebpv Pedestal, High Flow Outlet, Hucorey's HPOP Lines, RR High Flow Fuel Fittings, RR OCR, Barder 360 Thrust Kit, 08 Tow Mirrors.

Dad-2000 7.3 108k miles, Autometer Gauges, Superchips 1705, RR AIH Delete, 6637, 4" Diamond Eye, BD Billet Wheel, TruCool Max
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post #6 of 6 Old 11-13-2013, 04:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 7.3caseih View Post
Thanks for the clarification guys. The hissing is very annoying while driving but if it's serving a purpose then I will put up with it. Rammstein (awesome name by the way lol), I am considering wiring mine to a switch. When do you engage/disengage it and do you use it as an exhaust brake at all? Would you recommend doing it or have any tips about it's purpose or wiring up a switch?
Yes like blue99 said its not a good idea unless you wanna replace up pipes and possibly hit your valves on the pistons. Only time i use it is to warm up the truck. You can do without it while your driving as long you warm it up first. Thats why i wired it to a switch and when you do it you have to either cut the wire coming from the pcm because if you just splice a wire in it will back feed to the pcm which is bad.

Local Jackass member Pat

Battle cry of every 6.0 owner out there
Quote:
Originally Posted by access_max View Post
With the issues fixed a 6.0 can run circles around a 7.3.
2000 F-350 7.3L ZF6
Standard 7.3 mods
SCT tuned
8" Fabtech lift 13" total
5:13 Gears
46" Goodyear MVTs Military takeoffs
Bushwacker Cut-Out Fender Flares
Ranch Hand front and rear bumper
On-board air W/Semi horns

1995 F-350 7.3L E4OD DRW
Standard 7.3 mods
PHP Hydra W/Tony Wildman tunes
160/0 Injectors
T-500 HPOP
E-fuel Conversion
West Coast mirrors
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