2002 7.3 died on me twice. Air in fuel system? - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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post #1 of 30 Old 11-04-2013, 06:21 AM Thread Starter
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2002 7.3 died on me twice. Air in fuel system?

Ok guys im going to try to make this as short as possible while stille being thorough. Last week my truck had a 1/4 tank of fuel per the gauge. I pulled it out of the carport to sweep and parked it nose down on my downhill driveway. When I started it back up, the gauge was buried, low fuel light was on, and the fuel pressure gauge was hovering around 20-30 PSI where it is nornally 60-65. It had a rough lopey idle but i was able to back into the level carport.

After it ran and the fuel pressure leveled out I drove it to the station and got about a half a tank of fuel and parked it. So the next day the family and I take off in it and about 4 miles from home, I lost acceleration and the RPMs dropped until it just died. It would just crank and crank but never started back. I swapped out my spare CPS with no luck. I caught a ride back home and came back an hour later. Fired right up and ran/drove perfect for about 3 mles then the same thing happened.

After getting it home, I started investigating the following morning. It fired right up and ran smooth as silk @ 62-65 PSI for 2 straight hours without issue. Then again that night for 1 hour, no problems. My buddy came over with his Snapon Solus and did a mulitide of tests. Buzz test, engine test, attempted to pull codes, everything came back perfect. All gauges were reading perfect and all fluids are at correct level.

Everything in the engine bay is dry as a bone. Nothing dripping from HPOP or fluids in the lifter valley. In fact if it didnt shut off on me while driving, id never know there was an issue. CPS and ICP are new OEM Ford replacements and are only about a month old. Fuel line sleeves, filter, and fuel bowl is new with all new seals and o-rings. Also removed the fuel filter and it as well as the bowl are clean as a pin with no debris.

Is there a possibilty that I had an air pocket in the fuel system where the pump tried to suck while on that hill and it didnt hit the injectors until I drove it that day?

2002 F250 CCSB True Blue L2

• 5" Turbo Back MBRP, 7" Tip • Muffler Delete • Spectre CAI • Foil Delete • Edge Evolution II • Glowshift Gauges • Hutch/Harpoon Mod • Leveled • 285/75 Cooper AT3 • 16x8 Dick Cepek DC2 • Mile Marker 449SS • Goodmark 2" Steel Cowl • SS Step Bars
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post #2 of 30 Old 11-04-2013, 06:52 AM
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It's not uncommon for a crack in the pick-up, that allows air to be introduced, to show up at 1/4 tank. You also have those mixer screens that cause delivery issues. Those are some of the things that's made the Hutch Mod so popular.

You could also have a bad pump maybe? It could be crapping out on ya...

I'd think about carrying some spare fuel with me as it approaches 1/4 again

Or maybe nip-it-in-the-bud and drop that tank for a look before it gets any colder!
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post #3 of 30 Old 11-04-2013, 08:43 AM Thread Starter
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Yeah im going to research the hutch mod a little more. The only other thing i can think of is i fixed a busted brake line in the frame rail about 2 weeks ago. That required me to drop the tank a few inches to get the new line in. I never disconnected anything and i drove the truck without issue between then and now.

2002 F250 CCSB True Blue L2

• 5" Turbo Back MBRP, 7" Tip • Muffler Delete • Spectre CAI • Foil Delete • Edge Evolution II • Glowshift Gauges • Hutch/Harpoon Mod • Leveled • 285/75 Cooper AT3 • 16x8 Dick Cepek DC2 • Mile Marker 449SS • Goodmark 2" Steel Cowl • SS Step Bars
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post #4 of 30 Old 11-06-2013, 09:34 AM Thread Starter
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Decided to drop the tank today and started on the hutch/harpoon mod. I found 1 problem so far. The pickup is all still in tact but the valve thats supposed to be on the side of the black pre filter foot was laying in the bottom of the tank along with some debris and sediment. Havent had a chance to check the two cylindrical screens yet. I figure even if this isn't the remedy to my current issues posted above, itll make me feel better knowing im not driving around with a stopped up fuel pickup.








2002 F250 CCSB True Blue L2

• 5" Turbo Back MBRP, 7" Tip • Muffler Delete • Spectre CAI • Foil Delete • Edge Evolution II • Glowshift Gauges • Hutch/Harpoon Mod • Leveled • 285/75 Cooper AT3 • 16x8 Dick Cepek DC2 • Mile Marker 449SS • Goodmark 2" Steel Cowl • SS Step Bars

Last edited by mtmc; 11-06-2013 at 09:37 AM.
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post #5 of 30 Old 11-06-2013, 03:48 PM Thread Starter
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Here's my screens. As suspected. One of them had a big house fly in it? Not sure how that made it through the pre-filter screen.








2002 F250 CCSB True Blue L2

• 5" Turbo Back MBRP, 7" Tip • Muffler Delete • Spectre CAI • Foil Delete • Edge Evolution II • Glowshift Gauges • Hutch/Harpoon Mod • Leveled • 285/75 Cooper AT3 • 16x8 Dick Cepek DC2 • Mile Marker 449SS • Goodmark 2" Steel Cowl • SS Step Bars
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post #6 of 30 Old 11-06-2013, 05:08 PM
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You will love the way your truck runs after the hutch mod. I like the convenience of the extra filter mounted on the frame rail. I run biodiesel , so i added a flat plate heat exchanger ,to heat the fuel to prevent plugging the filter with thick cold fuel.

2000 F250 King Ranch Crew Cab 7.3L LB 4X4 100% home brewed Biodiesel
ZF6 6SPD trans
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DP F5 Tuner
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post #7 of 30 Old 11-08-2013, 07:01 AM Thread Starter
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Hey guys I finished my hutch/harpoon mod and cleaned my tank spotless. I also bought a Baldwin in line filter. I have a few questions.

1. Before I reinstall everything I plan to blow my fuel line out from the pump back to where it connects to the tank with compressed air for a little extra peace of mind. Do I need to fill the line back up with fuel prior to re-installing tank? I'm concerned about air in my fuel system. My truck is a 2002 7 3, does it have a way to bleed air from the fuel on its own? Worried about my pump/injectors firing dry.

2. Is there any issue with splicing the factory 5/8" line for the fuel filter or should I use a new piece of 5/8" diesel rated rubber hose?

Thanks

2002 F250 CCSB True Blue L2

• 5" Turbo Back MBRP, 7" Tip • Muffler Delete • Spectre CAI • Foil Delete • Edge Evolution II • Glowshift Gauges • Hutch/Harpoon Mod • Leveled • 285/75 Cooper AT3 • 16x8 Dick Cepek DC2 • Mile Marker 449SS • Goodmark 2" Steel Cowl • SS Step Bars
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post #8 of 30 Old 11-08-2013, 02:27 PM
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There is a fine screen on the inlet end of the fuel pump. On my truck , it looked like your fuel socks. You can't take it out to clean it, so I replaced my pump. I wanted to insure there would be no problem when I left on my 5000 mile hunting trip to west Texas.
Just peace of mind.

2000 F250 King Ranch Crew Cab 7.3L LB 4X4 100% home brewed Biodiesel
ZF6 6SPD trans
Zoo Dad Mod
DP F5 Tuner
Wicked Wheel
AFE Intake
4" straight exhaust with 5" tip
Isspro 3 Gauge Pod
285/75/16 Cooper ATP on factory 16's
Banks Big Head
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post #9 of 30 Old 11-08-2013, 06:15 PM Thread Starter
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I dropped the tank, cleaned it spotless, eliminated the crappy clogged up pickup screens with the hutch mod, harpooned the tank, blew out the fuel lines, and installed an in line filter before the pump.

I got it all back together tonight and fired it up. It ran smooth as a ribbon consistantly at 70 PSI with no fluctuations. After idling for about 35 minutes it just shut off without reason as before. No leaks, no drips, no problems that I can see.

No check engine lights, didnt throw any codes, nothing. I thought for sure this would fix my random dying issue. Unfortunately it didnt. So now I have no idea what to do.

I have been driving this truck daily since the end of February and its never given me 1 single problem until it started doing this just out of the blue.

The worst part is the truck gives me absolutely no indication that there is a problem so I have no idea where to start.

2002 F250 CCSB True Blue L2

• 5" Turbo Back MBRP, 7" Tip • Muffler Delete • Spectre CAI • Foil Delete • Edge Evolution II • Glowshift Gauges • Hutch/Harpoon Mod • Leveled • 285/75 Cooper AT3 • 16x8 Dick Cepek DC2 • Mile Marker 449SS • Goodmark 2" Steel Cowl • SS Step Bars

Last edited by mtmc; 11-08-2013 at 06:28 PM.
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post #10 of 30 Old 11-08-2013, 08:07 PM
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Back to basics............. Check ICP plug , oil in the plug means the sensor is on its way out , should throw a code .I reread post,,,,, ICP new plug could be a bad connection
check IPR..... tin nut loose? The plug connector usually gets crapped up sitting in the valley
Check connections to the PCM and IDM... corrosion in the plug can cause connection issues , stalling
Any chance you can get it hooked up to a scanner and monitor High pressure oil? A leaking injector will drop the hpop pressure below 500psi , shutting down the motor. When the engine is cold ,the oil is thicker ,its not until the oil warms, that it will leak and shut down. You can let it idle all day and it won't get hot enough, soon as you drive it , increased heat and pressure, then it will leak.
can you check HPOP pressure immediately after it shuts down , like before it cools off?

2000 F250 King Ranch Crew Cab 7.3L LB 4X4 100% home brewed Biodiesel
ZF6 6SPD trans
Zoo Dad Mod
DP F5 Tuner
Wicked Wheel
AFE Intake
4" straight exhaust with 5" tip
Isspro 3 Gauge Pod
285/75/16 Cooper ATP on factory 16's
Banks Big Head
298K
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