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2003 7.3 P1316 ran great then died and will only crank

9K views 13 replies 6 participants last post by  NoRalPh 
#1 ·
2003 7.3 has run like a clock since I bought it 2+ years ago, it is an occasional use vehicle. A couple of weeks ago at near the end of a one hour drive, the truck momentarily stalled (maybe a stumble but restarted while decelerating from about 40 mph, SES/CEL light came on for a second then everything went back to normal. A minute or so later while stopped at a red light the truck just shut off (SES/CEL on at the instant the engine died not before), it shut off as if turning off with the key. It restarted (slightly hard start, like out of fuel) then smoothed out instantly and ran like a top until I reached my destination a few miles away. Thinking CPS, I swapped it out (thanks folks for the advice to carry a spare) and drove home that evening (1 hour) without a bit of trouble. I bought a couple more CPS’s for the glove box supply and a week later left the house, drove ¼ mile and truck again turned off at a stop light, SES/CEL on but this time would not restart. 2 roadside CPS swaps and still would not restart. WTS illuminates and everything looks normal. Returned with a vehicle (30 minutes) to tow it back but tried to start it for grins and it fired up good as new. I parked it at home and now it just cranks but will not fire. At no point have I ever experienced the rough idle, miss or any other symptom, just this total shut off. Oil level is good, fuel pump is running, fuel bowl is full, batteries are charged. Ether is nowhere near my truck 

We pulled codes P1316,P1670 and P0460 with my buddies commercial grade scanner. I have read every post the search function could find related to P1316 or IDM’s and only found one that discussed a problem like mine which was a bad IDM. I just bought an AE Ford bundle as I know the scanner can only do so much. Does anyone have any suggestions for a series of diagnostics I should run to try and track down the problem. I have the buzz test on my list but after that, I’m not sure where to go.

Based on the recommendations here, I had BTS do the trans, a 6.0 cooler and Brian installed his software, thanks to everyone for their advise, a little expensive but it has been flawless. Other than a muffler delete (truck came that way) I am aware of no other mods. Truck has 90K miles and came out of Texas so corrosion is not one of my problems


BTW – Is the UVCH connector still an issue in the 2003’s or are the connectors upgraded. I’ve heard some owners say the $ .50 trick doesn’t work due to the wedges but they seem to be 2003 engines. I have not pulled the valve covers yet as the lack of even a hint of a miss makes me think the issue is elsewhere.

Thanks in advance
 
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#2 ·
The 1316 is less of a specific code than it is an indication the IDM sees a problem and needs you to perform a Buzz Test so it can further resolve the specific code. The AE will do it, so will most professional scanners.

That's what I would do next, see what IDM codes pop-up after the Buzz...
 
#3 ·
I put the AE on it today. The buzz test initially resulted in no injector noise although the tach ran through a sequence but after trying again it tested successfully and all injectors sounded strong even #8. KOEO also tested successfully. Tried to start and it started fine. Ran KOER and it passed. 2 hrs later I ran all same tests again including 2x buzz test, all successful, still only P1316. Started engine then tried to log as much as possible, KOER CCT test successful PERDEL had #3 peak at2.6% and #8 at 3.6%, injwxroe control pressure 461-487 injectore volts .85 and Injector duty cycle 10.16. I cleared codes and at about 15 minutes of idling engine sputtered and a second later died, P1316 was back. KOEO pulled P0605 internal control module ROM eror and Buzz test resulted in P1668 communications error and none of the injectors fired during the test the tach did move as normal, cycled key tried buzz again and then resulted in unknown error,, no injector activity and tach moving.

Any thoughts? Bad IDM ??

thanks
 
#4 ·
I had the same problem on my father in laws 2001 f550 with the same exact code and same symptoms your talking about. Sometimes it would run for an hour then the next time it was 15 mins or maybe even 5 mins and stall out. Let it sit for 10 to 30 mins and it would fire back up and run. Check fuel bowl and it would be full maybe just a lil lower than normal but still full. Long story short the the screens in mixing chamber inside the tanks were so stopped up you could not see through them. Even though it had fuel in the bowl the fuel pressure would drop way down until it shut off and set the P1316. Preformed injector buzz test when it did it and maybe 2 out of 8 would try to hit. I did the hutch mod on it and installed a pre pump filter and all is well for the last 8 months. It took care of the code too. Not sure this is gona help you at all but i hope it helps some. Good luck with your findings:nod:
 
#5 ·
I just changed my idm. Had 3 injectors on the left bank not firing. I check other things first ie....ohm out injectors, check/ohm out harness, check connections....mine ended up being the idm, but there is no good way to test that......just have to eliminate other factors.
 
#6 ·
99BFT - I definitely thought about the fuel screens and if the truck wasn't just filled I might drop the tank and do the mod as a precaution but with a full tank what a mess that is going to be right now.

Seth14 - Well I ordered new gaskets to install when i check the uvch. in the mean time i continue to run diags since the symptoms are now all over the place. I tried it several days ago, started a little weak but ran ran fine for 45min to an hour with one hiccup but didnt stall, when that happened I saw a blip on the injector pressure and duty cycle. I shut it off and came back the next day, tried to start it and it was barely firing, had smoke but would not catch, again injector stats look good, i forgot the buzz test that day and I'm kicking myself. anyway Next day no hint of trying to fire, no smoke. Changed out the batteries today and it would crank but no smoke no attempt to fire. ran the buzz test no buzz at all and resulted in pcm/idm communications error, tried two more times same results, ran koeo and it passed. I'm leaning to the IDM. I just called RiffRaff / Clay after hearing the current testing results says he's also leaning to an IDM. I read there is a relay that can cause the communications error but I am getting Inj control voltage which makes me think the relay isn't the issue. IDM is on order, I let everyone know the results.
 
#7 ·
Just a thought,what is the injection pressure when cranking ? If its running can you wiggle the wiring to the IPR while monitoring the icp,Connection to the IPR might be bad, default at IPR is wide open = no ICP
 
#8 ·
GreasyF250 - the pressure ramped up to 3135, then settled at about 2325 during the period of cranking. the ICP volts ramped to 3.8 and settled at 3. both start attempts had similar results. I have not been able to get the truck started for the past 5-6 attempts so I cannot do the wiggle test. Visual inspection of ICP, clean and dry.
 
#9 ·
I could be wrong here , but there is no way that cranking and not starting can produce that high of a pressure. I've seen pressures of 1500 psi with the glow plugs out.
 
#10 ·
Could be possible to see that high of pressure if the injectors are not firing to bleed off any pressure, Which would tell me that the IDM is bad
 
#11 ·
Completed chedk of UVCH, connectors tight but still from the IDM connector seeing 8-9ohm with one at 37 ohm, replaced with new gaskets and UVCH harness, now seeing 2.8ohm at all locations, same as the reading directly from injector. Reassembled and tested with original IDM, no start. Installed allied IDM, truck is now running.
 
#12 ·
Sweet! I just knocked the tranny out of mine. So now I have that tore apart.....it's never ending
 
#14 ·
First, you should really start your own thread, people aren't going to find you at the end of this, unrelated, one...

Next, your terminology is confusing me. "Cranks?" Doesn't "Turn Over"? WHAT???? :)

Let me understand this. When you turn the Key to Start, the engine is rotating on the starter - right? (to me, it's Both "Cranking & Turning Over") BUT it's not Starting & Running - right? I don't mean to be rigid, I understand different areas of the country have different descriptions everybody gets used to using, but ya gotta pick-one! -hehehe :D

OK, enough of that... If I'm correctly guessing what you describe and the batteries are turning the engine on the starter at a normal speed but it doesn't start. AND you have no WTS light (GP), what you have is an indication that the PCM (computer) isn't running. If it's not turning on the WTS it's not "alive".

In most cases, this is about a fuse. Most often the Fuel Heater has a short and it shares that fuse with the PCM. Check that. In fact, check All the fuses, but especially #30. But, until you get your WTS light back, don't even bother trying to start, you're just wasting the batteries. Until the PCM is running it's just not going to happen...
 
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