Ball joints and shady shop - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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post #1 of 27 Old 08-17-2013, 10:41 AM Thread Starter
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Ball joints and shady shop

So I have my truck dropped off to get new front rotors and pads and an alignment done and to check the ball joints. The shop tells me that one needs to be replaced and one of the axle seals is leaking. I told them to replace all four ball joints and the inner and outer axle seals.
This morning they call and tell me they cant do the ball joints because there is a bolt in the differential broken off and they cant move the axle to get the old ball joints out. They said it may be better to get a new differential housing.
Now im no rocket scientist but that sounds like they're trying to pull a fast one on me. Why would you need to get in the differential to do either of these jobs? Maybe someone knowledgeable can enlighten me. Two of my friends already called bs on this too.


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post #2 of 27 Old 08-17-2013, 11:07 AM Thread Starter
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http://www.superdutypsd.com/ball_joint_article.php

I used this step by step and see nothing about getting inside the differential for either procedure


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post #3 of 27 Old 08-17-2013, 11:12 AM
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Yea, you're right,,, the axle just pulls out (can take some force sometimes) and there is No Clip or Bolt holding them in. I think they're over their heads here, you should go get your truck out of their hands
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post #4 of 27 Old 08-17-2013, 11:23 AM
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Straight from Mitchell's website there are only 2 steps listed:
1. Remove manual locking hub
2. Using a punch, drive axle shaft main seal from steering knuckle. Remove axle shaft and main seal

For the locking hub:
1. Remove disc brake caliper and bracket
2. Remove hub lock retaining clip, and axle shaft snap ring
3. Remove the 4 locking nuts and the locking hub
4. Remove disc brake shield and ABS sensor if eqiupped


I would also agree the do not know what they are looking at here...

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post #5 of 27 Old 08-17-2013, 11:36 AM
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Have your truck towed to a different shop. They obviously have never done a SD before. Don't let them use you as the guinea pig on your dollar.

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post #6 of 27 Old 08-17-2013, 11:36 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks guys. I dont know a lot about drivetrains but i know when im being lied too. Looks like a pow wow is in order this afternoon


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post #7 of 27 Old 08-17-2013, 11:38 AM Thread Starter
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O and it doesnt need to be towed thank god. I just wanted it done while they did brakes and alignment


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post #8 of 27 Old 08-17-2013, 01:11 PM Thread Starter
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Ok so they are saying its the lock bolt that allows the axle to come completely outBall joints and shady shop-imageuploadedbyag-free1376773741.948901.jpg
P/n 24 should allow the axle to completely come loose allowing the proper play to get the ball joints out


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post #9 of 27 Old 08-17-2013, 01:21 PM Thread Starter
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I went to the shop and had them show me exactly what bolt and everything caused the issue. They were very accommodating and explained everything. Didnt try to screw me over for charges. Not charging me for fluids or the 5.5 hrs of labor and the manager handled it personally. I will still be taking it to a family shop to do get the lock bolt off thats broken


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post #10 of 27 Old 08-17-2013, 01:30 PM
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As I look at your diagram, I would say that 24 locks 6 (the cross shaft that the spider gears turn on) and NOT the axle from sliding out....

Maybe I'm not seeing what they're seeing
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