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Truck won't start. No crank, just clicks

79K views 14 replies 5 participants last post by  Elder Elemental Evil 
#1 ·
Truck (2000 F250 7.3L auto) seems to have power. Both batteries read 11.8 volts. Wait to start comes on, but then the truck just clicks repeatedly when attempting to start. Tried jumping the passenger fender starter relay. Replaced the starter with another reman since it was under lifetime warranty. They didn't bother to bench test it, so no idea if it was bad. The clicking noise seems to be coming from one of the two relay looking devices in the top center of the motor (one of which I assume would be the glow plug relay?). I thought at first that the A/C clutch bearings had seized up, since my A/C recently stopped working. However, when I removed the belt, the pulley spun freely, and I don't see any red dust. The battery cables look good based upon visuals, no corrosion evident.

Any ideas?

Thanks.
 
#5 ·
11.8 volts is pretty low for a cold crank.
 
#6 ·
11.8v is low but you should still get some movement. Did you try jumping the starter? There is a small lug that you can short to the larger lug or better yet just use a meeter to check that you have power at the large lug all the time and the small one while turning the key.
 
#7 ·
I believe that I tried to jump the starter selenoid and got nothing but some sparks. I'll try that again when I get home.

Also, does anyone think it has anything to do with either the glow plug or AIH relay? there is some serious clicking going on in that area. (also - the windshield wipers seem to be on the lowest intermittent setting, even though the wipers are turned off).
 
#8 ·
First, it has NOTHING to do with either the GPR or the AIH, neither would cause a no crank (won't even prevent starting unless it's Really Cold out)

Next, where did you get the 11.8v from? When did it read that?

Here's what's important, use the "Outlet" (cig ltr) in the cab and see what IT says when you roll the key to crank over on the starter. What's the voltage Then? You can also turn the Headlight ON and have someone try to crank it and see if they go almost Out or Very dim.

IF you have over 10v when you try to crank it over, next I would crawl under there and give the Starter body a few good Whacks with a hammer (can dislodge stuck stuff like brushes or Bendix)

Jumping the solenoid is a good way to test if it's bad, you've done that so I'm leaning towards the Starter or Batteries (or cables & grounds to it).
 
#13 ·
Power point reads 11.16 with key in, drops to 6 momentarily before returning to 10.8 or so with key in on. On start, drops to 6 while holding the key in start, then returns to around 9.8 in release.
The PCM in your truck will NOT activate the IDM or even try to start when the voltage drops that low, even if the stater would turn it over. In the '99 - '01's it's like 10v min, later PCMs got it lowered to like 8.5v, But 6 is never gonna do... ;)
 
#10 ·
Batteries :shifan:
 
#12 · (Edited)
Yep, batteries or a really bad connection.

The 11.18v reading is too low for a charged battery at rest. You could try charging them up, it's possible that your charging system isn't working and the batteries are still ok. You should see over 12v with the batteries at rest, with a load they should be close to 12v but could drop to 11v or so during cranking.
 
#14 ·
Well, I got the batteries tested. They passed as 'good batteries, normal wear.' Got them charged, reinstalled them, and the truck started right up. Let it run for a couple minutes, then shut it off. Half hour later, no crank, no clicks or anything. Reading 11+ volts in crank at the interior power point. Same result at all gears, and while 'pushing up' the shifter past park, as well as attempting to wiggle shifter in all gears.
 
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