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  #1  
Old 05-17-2013, 01:06 PM
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Save my marriage

Ignoring my wife's advise,a few days ago I sold my low mileage, super clean 04 150 4x4 so I could buy a well used , 99 crew cab dually 2wd Lariat, so I could pull the bigger camper that I had just convinced her we needed. All in all truck is in good shape, body clean, interior so so, but what made me jump on it was the engine .All new up top, including low and high pressure pumps, injectors, harness,v.c gaskets.... all from ford (3800 in parts )and all done last month.Tranny and rear end recently gone through, so I figured it was a great deal .Long story short, the day I bought it, it ran stellar ,for 480 miles (up and down the Fancy Gap , walking the dog). At the 481 mark, it started skipping and smoking at idle, with a pretty good knock.Buzz test good, contribution keeps failing no 7. I swapped injectors, and no 7 still misses and smokes. Hard to tell if it is black or blue, but it isn't white. Seems to go away under load, but I'm not sure.It sounds like extreme leakage into the crankcase, and does have lots of pressure at oil filler. I am going to borrow a compression gauge Monday since all I have is car stuff and check. Broken rings on one piston doesn't make sense. Any ideas
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Old 05-17-2013, 01:36 PM
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What's your duty cycle at idle?


Sent from AutoGuide.com App
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  #3  
Old 05-17-2013, 01:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BigD214 View Post
What's your duty cycle at idle?


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Not sure. I have a verus pro, will that check it or do I need to scope it?
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Old 05-17-2013, 01:43 PM
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Also, how different is a 94.5 power stroke?
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Old 05-18-2013, 06:00 AM
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not much different. A few items need attended to, but for most part, from what i've read, no worries to drop one in.

If, with the oil fill cap off, and it blows the cap from the filler tube, you definetly have a dead hole or two..
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Old 05-19-2013, 12:20 PM
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Thanks, not what I wanted to hear lol. Found a 2000 f550 7.3 that needs a few injectors.How much is needed in order to use that and is it heavier. (I remember hearing that there was a difference)
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Old 05-25-2013, 08:44 AM
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Problem comes and goes, only skips and smokes at idle. Here is the kicker: Because of the loud knock at idle (car guys thinks all knocks are bad), and what seemed like a lot of blow by I was convinced the motor needed to go. I bought a low mileage short block to swap in. On the way to the shop I stopped at the car wash to clean off the engine (which was really clean to begin with), and it ran poorly right up to when I shut it off. Since I washed it, it hasn't skipped a beat! I've let it idle for a few hours, dogged the heck out of it.....running like a top, zero smoke and no knock.. I'm holding off on the swap for obvious reasons ! Is it possible to have wiring or icm problems that won't store a code?
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Old 05-25-2013, 05:13 PM
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just a few possibilitys here...since the problem is come and go, i would rule out rings, valves, or valve springs. Smoke and skip at idle sounds like to much fuel on one or more cylinders (no. 7 most likely since it failed contribution). If its fuel it should be a greyish black color...oil would be blueish grey. Injectors don't usually come and go...they may skip at idle and smooth out as revs increase but once they start skipping they don't stop. I would guess either injector driver module or wiring on no. 7. One way to rule out a few things is to swap injectors from a cylinder that passes contribution to no.7 and re-run the test. If no. 7 is still dead, it has to be in the wiring or electronics. Hope that helps. Also, if it starts skipping again...use a mechanics stethoscope or stick or vaccum hose to find which bank the skip is on...pull that valve cover and unhook each injector one at a time until you find the one that makes no difference in idle quality...now you know which cylinder is down for sure and you can diagnose from there. If you can borrow an IDM from a good running truck that would rule it out as well.
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Old 05-25-2013, 07:32 PM
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I'll tell you the same thing I told the high school kid that wants to go from 7.3 to 6.0. You're an idiot. You swapped a known good truck for a "Let's play WTF is going on?". You've gone pretty far in fixing all the issues. What you need to do is build the heck out of the short block. I mean, build it right. Then when it comes proper time to swap out the "good" top end, replace what needs replaced. Put in new injector cups, wait to do the swap until you can get at least stage 1 single shot, upgrade the turbo to the WWgen2, and just do it all right the first time. You washed this thing and it seems to be running right. That means a sensor or eight are screwballed. The engine itself is solid, but the peripherals are messing with you. If you need to, go through the AE (or other real scan tool) and replace what needs replaced. You have another engine on standby, so don't worry about that. Sensors don't go out for fun, so you're not wasting money. You're simply spending money now that you don't have to spend later.

You made a poor choice in replacing a known decent 6.0 with an unknown 7.3, but the change is made, and you're pressing on. Save face and fix it right the first time. The 7.3 is a solid platform. You won't go wrong with it, you just won't pull 10sec 1/4 miles with 10K lb trailer. You'll pull a 24K lb trailer just as fast as a 10K trailer, it just won't be quick.
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  #10  
Old 05-25-2013, 07:40 PM
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i'd replace the IDM and check the wiring to number 7 injector
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