qusetion bout door locks - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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post #1 of 29 Old 01-26-2008, 09:45 AM Thread Starter
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qusetion bout door locks

i got a 2000 f250 ext.cab and my power door locks dont work. when u hit the lock button it feels like the actuaters are trying to unlock the truck but wont. anybody have this problem before or know what i need to fix it
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post #2 of 29 Old 01-26-2008, 01:00 PM
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There is a write up in the tech section. It's AMAZING!! Oh wait.. I'm the one who did it.

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post #3 of 29 Old 01-26-2008, 01:22 PM
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Yeah, what dirk said.....I still haven't done it yet, too dang cold.


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post #4 of 29 Old 01-27-2008, 02:06 AM
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that fix is awsome i just did mine the other day


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post #5 of 29 Old 01-27-2008, 07:55 PM
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Just a quick comment on the repair. In the photo where the caption is:

"Use #10 x ¾ self tapping screws to hold the case together. At the hole where the arrow is pointing, use a #10 x ½ or 5/8 screw. Otherwise, it will go too far through the case and interfere with the mechanism on the other side.",

you also need to use a shorter screw in the hole to the lower right of where the arrow points. I used 1/2 in. screws in those holes. Otherwise the tip of the screw will interfere with movement of the mechanism behind the housing there, also. I used a jewelers screwdriver to dig the metal tabs loose from the plastic at the end of the motor, because I don't own a pick. I'm in the process of doing this to the front, passenger side door on my truck. I've got the locking mechanism back together and ready to reinstall in the door, but it got dark (and colder). I'll finish it up, tomorrow.

dirk0, thank you for the write-up.
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post #6 of 29 Old 01-27-2008, 08:00 PM
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I tried it with 1/2, 5/8, and 3/4 and to my surprise it didn't interfere. I stuck with the longer screw because of the amount of torque the motor puts out. If the case isn't solid, it will tweak the case and possibly strip/break the gears. Just be careful and use good sense.

Also, get a good set of snap-on (blue point) or matco picks. They will pay for themselves time and time again.

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post #7 of 29 Old 01-27-2008, 09:56 PM
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The screws I used for the project were pan head phillips self-tapping screws, not the hex headed ones in the photos. Even with the torque on my drill set down on 3 (out of 6), the screw trimmed off the "ridges" around the holes, so they sat a little deeper. The screws didn't seat at all when the drill was set on 2. The screws do present a cleaner look on the repair, although they will probably never be seen.

I'll start looking for a set of picks.
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post #8 of 29 Old 02-21-2008, 11:08 PM
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post #9 of 29 Old 02-21-2008, 11:32 PM
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Dirk, I was just looking at your write up and I'm a bit confuzzled, or mebbe the beer is working, regardless I'm trying to figure out exactly what ya did with the aluminum foil, A bit more info would be nice, I'm thinking I might do it tomorrow.

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post #10 of 29 Old 02-22-2008, 09:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by planeoldguy View Post
Dirk, I was just looking at your write up and I'm a bit confuzzled, or mebbe the beer is working, regardless I'm trying to figure out exactly what ya did with the aluminum foil, A bit more info would be nice, I'm thinking I might do it tomorrow.
Wrap it around the small rectangular piece from the motor, before putting it back into the motor. You'd think that cleaning it was enough, but I followed the instructions. My lock now requires me to push the unlock button twice to get that door unlocked (actually four times because of the sequence required), but before the repair, it wouldn't unlock at all. I'm going to tear into it, again, to make sure that the rod isn't binding. If I can't find an obvious fix, I'll buy a new lock. They're around $40 (plus shipping) on-line.
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