oil pan woes... WHOA...

[Motomike777]

So I just bought my truck and have muddled my way through destroyed rear breaks, and not working power windows (had to replace the fuse panel) and a few other minor odds and ends. I replaced my oil and replaced the gasket on the plug as it seemed to be leaking, only to see more leaking on the ground.

Mind you, I did the oil change in the dark outside ( I know, pitty me) however, now that I'm looking, it "appears" as though the oil pan is dripping from the front of the pan and may even have been patched with some kind of epoxy!? First, I'm wondering if a rusted through oil pan is common on these.. second, I'm wondering what my options are on this if indeed it turns out to be a lousy epoxy pan repair that is leaving a puddle in my driveway. I tried searching threads and didn't come up with much on replacing or repairing the oil pan. Is it possible to simply scrub and weld these? Is pulling the whole motor the only option on replacement? Should I just go cry myself to sleep? what to do, what to do ....

[NoRalPh]

First, yea it Is a common issue...

Next, the right way to fix it is to pull the engine then, once on a stand, it can be turned upside-down and resealed (this is what Ford recommends, otherwise the oil that seeps down the inside block walls contaminates the seal). I think there are guys doing it by just lifting it partially out, not inverting it, but you'd be taking a chance.

Welding isn't option, the metal has corroded so thin there's nothing to weld to.

Another option is to "patch" the whole bottom with a system these guys have come-up with. I'm not sure how well it stands up, not every pan is going to be a candidate I don't think, but I haven't heard anything bad about it either.

Damian Frattasio - YouTube

[timmyboy76]

its possible it aint your oil pan, but the top of the motor. Crawl up and look down in the middle of it..(valley), see if theres oil residue. There's an opening toward the back of the valley, pass side, where if enough oil accumulates, it'll drain down the back, in front of the oil pan.

If there is oil, make sure its oil and not fuel. If oil, check the hpop area and under the turbo, where the ebpv rod protrudes from it...common failures.

[NCHornet]

Please fill out your signatures before you post for help. Sure makes it a lot easier to know what we are working on and where you live and temps you are having issues at etc.......
The 7.3's are known to leak where the dipstick enters the pan. There is a O Ring there that get's old and it leaks, boy do I know this problem. Have had it on my 2000 and my sons 1996 OBS. I have done the IH rip off of a fix, and it worked for a short term. I don't like the idea of smearing a bunch of sealant into the area, but I also can't swing 2 grand to pull the motor either. No secret Ford should have used a alumium pan in this area.
Another expensive fix is this one. I have never used it, just shown by a friend.

http://shop.strictlydiesel.com/store...ter_repair_kit

I have had Scott at TU replace my O ring four times and it always starts again. No Scott's fault, it is just a bad design and I got tired of bothering him with it. While preparing my sons truck for the brutal ND Winter, I used KBS on all exposed frame rails, oil pan and other areas. It is similar to POR 15 but better. I contacted the owner and he agreed that his product would solve this issue. I did the three step kit and leak is sealed. I used aprox 8 coats, looks ugly as sin as this stuff will run hours later, but the leak is sealed. Of course doing the entire pan should have been done before it ever started to rust. Come Spring I will be doing the same for my truck. I have been meaning to do a write up on this fix, maybe this weekend, not on the forums much due to health issues.
I agree, it could be coming from above, so make sure you follow the oil trail back to the source. You can get UV dye at most auto parts stores that will help you do this.
Later
NCHornet

[Motomike777]

Thanks for the inputs. I will double check the leak, but at a glance it appeared that there was lumpiness that looked like maybe a JB weld kinda crap on the bottom corner/middle of the pan that was dripping pretty heavily. I will most definitely need to do some kind of patch for now. I have the skills, but not the engine hoist, engine stand, garage, heated garage, or other things I would want to do the 'right thing' on it. If I was pulling the engine, I'd be hoping to do something more than just an oil pan.. good grief, shame on you Ford! Sorry about the signature, I'm new and hadn't found where to make one just yet and spaced putting my details in the original post.

Now a technical detail. When I was thinking of welding, I was actually thinking of forming a square plate to cover the whole corner and half of the bottom portion of the pan and welding a seal plate over the entire trouble area (if in fact that's the problem). Then maybe getting it sprayed with bed-liner. Any chance of that working? I know welding direct on worn through rust is a no go generally. Thoughts on this idea are welcome. I did also see some kind of a fiberglass cover thing online that some guy in michigan is using that looked awkward but maybe functional and pretty much makes a sort of cup around the whole drop portion of the pan that looked better than a jbweld patch anyway.

[Motomike777]

Originally Posted by NCHornet

Please fill out your signatures before you post for help. Sure makes it a lot easier to know what we are working on and where you live and temps you are having issues at etc.......
The 7.3's are known to leak where the dipstick enters the pan. There is a O Ring there that get's old and it leaks, boy do I know this problem. Have had it on my 2000 and my sons 1996 OBS. I have done the IH rip off of a fix, and it worked for a short term. I don't like the idea of smearing a bunch of sealant into the area, but I also can't swing 2 grand to pull the motor either. No secret Ford should have used a alumium pan in this area.
Another expensive fix is this one. I have never used it, just shown by a friend.

http://shop.strictlydiesel.com/store...ter_repair_kit

I have had Scott at TU replace my O ring four times and it always starts again. No Scott's fault, it is just a bad design and I got tired of bothering him with it. While preparing my sons truck for the brutal ND Winter, I used KBS on all exposed frame rails, oil pan and other areas. It is similar to POR 15 but better. I contacted the owner and he agreed that his product would solve this issue. I did the three step kit and leak is sealed. I used aprox 8 coats, looks ugly as sin as this stuff will run hours later, but the leak is sealed. Of course doing the entire pan should have been done before it ever started to rust. Come Spring I will be doing the same for my truck. I have been meaning to do a write up on this fix, maybe this weekend, not on the forums much due to health issues.
I agree, it could be coming from above, so make sure you follow the oil trail back to the source. You can get UV dye at most auto parts stores that will help you do this.
Later
NCHornet

Hope you are feeling better... I got waylaid in this repair by a broken arm myself. Did you get a chance to do your truck and write up your repair. I'm now considering first patching the hole with a fiberglass gas tank repair kit, then painting over it with sealants that take longer to dry. The fiberglass should dry pretty quickly, plus I learned online that you can put a vacuum on the oil fill pipe to keep suction on the holes to prevent contamination until you get the patch set. I figure this should give me a good initial seal, then I can paint it over repeatedly with sealant that shouldn't get contaminated after the initial patch is over the holes.