2000 PSD - Hard start, white smoke; more - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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Old 12-17-2007, 10:48 AM
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2000 PSD - Hard start, white smoke; more

Greetings from Birmingham, Alabama - 1st time post. I have searched the forum, but haven't seen anything exactly like my problem.

2000 F-350 7.3 liter with 119,000 miles. Problem started around 60k; cleared up with a bottle of injector cleaner. Started again recently; three bottles of injector cleaner hasn't touched it and it's getting worse.

Initial symptoms: In cool weather, after starting, within a minute or so it seemed as if the engine was starved for fuel, lost all power and died. I would have to floor the gas pedal while cranking up to 30-45 seconds (I know it's hard on the starter, but otherwise the engine wouldn't crank). Eventually I could feel it turning over a bit faster, getting fuel, and would feel it shake/throb until it caught. The engine would run a few seconds and then lose power (even with gas pedal floored), rattle and die. It would blow a lot of white smoke when it started catching - sometimes enough that it was like a smoke bomb completely obscuring the truck. This would happen for about ten times before it finally stayed running. The white smoke would continue for a couple of minutes and then go away. It would take up to 15-30 minutes to get to the point to where the truck would run. When the engine was warm or hot, or in hot weather, this would not happen.

As I said, when this first happened about four years ago it cleared up after a bottle of fuel treatment.

It has started again recently. I have put three bottles of cleaner in it over the past several fill ups, but it hasn't helped. This weekend I wound up making nearly a thousand-mile loop through Alabama and Tennessee and it got worse on the road. It is now to the point that when I let off the gas it blows out a lot of white smoke (back pressure related?). I seem to have to nearly floor the pedal to maintain a 70-75 mph uphill speed in the mountains. Also, after traveling the interstate awhile, when I get off and come to a stop, the engine dies.

During the trip I replaced the fuel filter and air filter to see if it would help. It didn't. I have had one friend tell me that it sounds like fuel injectors. I stopped at a truck stop garage and described the problem and was told that it sounded like a head gasket (I don't know about that, though - I didn't smell any coolant in the exhaust).

The local Ford dealership with a good diesel repair reputation said it would be after the first of the year before they could even look at the truck.

Any ideas here? I figure y'all may be able to put your heads together and help.
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Old 12-18-2007, 03:01 AM
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How to check Glow Plug System

To check the Glow Plug Relay (GPR)
Be sure the engine is cold, so that the PCM will tell the GPR to turn on. If the engine is hot, you won’t have as much time to check.
Locate the GPR – Its behind the fuel filter on top of the engine, a little bit toward the passenger side of the valley. There may be two relays there. If so, the rear one is the GPR. It will have two fairly large wires (yellow and brown) connected to one of the large posts.
With your multitmeter set to DC volts, and 15 V range (if not autoranging), clip the positive (red) lead to the output terminal (with yellow and brown wires connected), and the negative (black) lead to a good ground point (like the battery ground terminal or someplace metal directly on the engine block.)
Turn the key to ON (do not start)
If your GPR is good, it should click, and you’ll see 11 volts or so on your meter, then, depending on temperature, it will click off up to 2 minutes later. You should do this a couple of times to make sure it consistently makes the connection.
If you don’t get voltage with this test, confirm by retesting as follows.
Remove the two small wires from the smaller two of the four GPR terminals.
With jumper wires, apply voltage from the battery across the two small terminals. If your voltmeter now reads voltage on the output terminal, your GPR is OK, and your problem is in the PCM circuit that tells the GPR to activate.

If your GPR is bad you can use the factory replacement for around $75, Napa's GP110 is close to this price maybe $10 cheaper. But you can get a GPR 109 from Napa for around $22.00 This is the same exact relay as the GP110 except the mounting holes are rotated 180 degrees, which is no big deal as the wires stretch just fine.
Now if you are tired of replacing your GPR and want a H.D. alternative may I suggest the Stancor 586-902. This is a large relay and it can truly handle the large AMP draw our trucks call for at start up. Gopher Electronics has these for under $40. I know several folks that live way up North (Alaska, Canada) where they know about serious cold starts and they all swear by the Stancor. I am very happy with mine, I believe I have pics of mine installed in my webshots.

To check Glow Plugs.
Remove the electrical connector on the inboard side of valve cover at the gasket. Press down on the top of the connector latch and pry gently with a screwdriver. Photo of disconnecting one and another Photo of it loose.
There will be 9 pins on the valve cover gasket where you removed the connector. The two pins furthest forward and the two pins furthest back are for your glow plugs.
With your multimeter set to resistance (ohms) and low range (single digits) if not autoranging, clip the negative (black) lead to a good ground point.
Probe each of the 4 outer pins individually with the positive (red) lead, noting the resistance. Good glow plugs will have a resistance between 0.6 and 2 ohms. If you get infinite resistance on any glow plug, that one is either bad or the connector under the valve cover has come loose.
Take Care
Kevin

Also let me add, that if your GPR does test pad you can use a Napa model #109, their book will call for the #110 but the 110 is around $60+ where the 109 is low $20's. They are the same exact sensor spec wise, the only difference is the mounting tabs are rotated 180 degrees, don't worry the wires make it fine. However if you really want a HD relay and one you won't have to change yearly, you should replace it with the HD Stancor unit, the model # is 586-902 and it is made to handle the 200 amp draw, whereas the others are made very cheaply. You can see photos of this relay in my webshots.
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Old 02-17-2010, 11:28 AM
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Sounds to me like your in need of some new injectors and/or possibly IPR, FPR etc.. The white smoke, and hard starting was exacty myproblem before I replaced the injectors (not cheap). the colder it it the harder starting with bad injectors. Also make sure your oil is clean and the level full (this willl also cause hard starting but not white smoke).. I wouldnt think its your glow plugs because even when the motor is warm your not having the issues. The glow plugs may be only one factor (causeign the hard start issue).
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Old 02-17-2010, 12:39 PM
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If its glow plugs or relay

If its the relay go to an international dealer, the one for semi trucks. And tell them what the relay is for, The cheapest I found. I have the stock number somewhere if you need it, like $30 or so.

As for the Glow plugs I just did them this week on a 99 f-250. By far the hardest thing is getting the valve cover off the passenger side. Got the glow plugs at Advance auto $10 each. about 6 hours labor. I figured I saved $800or so dollars.
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Old 06-22-2011, 06:09 PM
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hey all forgive me on this i am a new bee hope someone can help plz...when i first got the truck 2000 f350 automatic ... i bought a edge juicer with attitude and didn't notice any real difference in performance or mileage even on the highest setting little to no black smoke as a matter of fact mileage dropped way off after i put on a cold air and a 4 inch exhaust and has gone down hill from there i did some digging and found on the ecu a big gold in color prom sticking out of the ecu that someone ground all the markings off no idea what brand or settings it has ....i started having the problem that i read here sounds just like my problem but it doesn't matter if its hot or cold it will crank long then when it starts it bucks and jerks and carries on it acts like it is running out of fuel (new fuel filter ) some white smoke but not a lot i removed the prom and the edge but no change in performance or the way it is acting up i have no check engine lite and no codes in the ecu any help or direction where to look for problems would be helpful

Last edited by WEEZER934WEEZER; 06-22-2011 at 06:22 PM.
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