it sounds like it wants to start but wont also theres a little bit of white smoke coming out of the exhaust, checked all fuse and they were good, tested the gpr and that was good and i checked the hpop and it was full i even plug it in for a few hours and still nothing
i dont know much about powerstrokes as this is my first one, i have a dumb question so dont laugh lol, i pulled out the ipr to see if it was clogged and it was covered in oil, dose fuel or oil run thru that?
OK, first - what are you scanning the truck with? Your IDM isn't bad if you have no codes BUT, you need the right scanner. It takes a special scanner to retrieve those codes and the Genreric OBD-II scanners like the Auto Parts stores use don't do us much good.
Next the IPR regulates the HP-oil that drives the injectors, you should see oil there. Lets start with some No Start basics;
WTS Light? - do you get it when you first roll-on the key?
Tach Movement? - does the tach needle move up slightly when cranking?*
Is it cranking fast enough? - it won't even TRY to start if cranking too slowly.
Is your truck "chipped"? If so, remove it as a Test.
*(because your truck is an '01, this may or may not apply to you. Here's how you'll know, IF your Instrument Cluster contains a Trans Temp Gauge the cluster no longer shows cranking rpm on the Tach. IF you DO NOT have that gauge, you SHOULD see the tach needle move up slightly as it turns on the starter. This is a test of the CPS)
Also, you could try disconnecting the plug on the ICP sensor to set a default value for the IPR to run with. Did you check the plug and sheet metal nut going to the IPR? That nut can vibrate off and allow the solenoid going over the valve to slide around. The wires going to the IPR can get brittle, crack, and short together. Make sure the plug & wires look in good shape.
yes wts light turns on, the tach moves a little, i've tried unpluging the icp and cranking but still nothing,the irp is still all together and the wires look good going to it, the fuel pump runs and im getting fuel to the fuel bowl, it dosent sound like its cranking slow, i just put two new batterys in it and the truck is bone stock no chip
my buddy is suppose to come over today with a snap-on scanner
Hopefully, that Snap-On should give you some answers. What's usually called for, when you suspect an IDM, is what's called a "Buzz Test" and will force the IDM you resolve further codes from the result. Half the time it's the UVCH connections (that go through the Valve Cover Gasket to the Injectors and Glow Plugs) are the reason for a failed Buzz Test too...
Already posted this in the thread you put in the wrong place.
From the number of no or hard start threads that have been posted lately there is a lot of this going around. How does buzz test sound? Have you scanned it with AE or similar scan tool? I am having such a problem and I am leaning towards at least a couple of weak injectors. You need more information. I have scanned mine with a snap on scanner but I also have a AE program on the way to help with my trucks woes. Do a search, you can get a good idea of some things to look at or check. Good luck.
Have you ohmed out the glow plugs with a volt/ohm meter yet? You said you tested the gpr but didn't say anything about the glow plugs. There is still plenty of things you can check before you just throw money at it. When I got mine I started with the gpr which ended up needing replace. Installed a Stancor.
I then checked the glow plugs and found one for sure and one questionable so I replaced them all. Still not there yet but will keep trying.
well i just got done testing the idm plug and i got nothing out of any of them, jumped up to about 5.01 and then sat at 0.01, i guess the problem is under the valve covers?
nvm must have did somthing wrong lol, they were all between 2.8 and 3.3
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