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Old 01-27-2013, 03:51 PM
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New here - no cold start issues at a loss!

First off I'm new here and would like to say hi. I've read about my issues here and some other forums and decided to join here as there seems to be many knowledgeable members. I have a 2001 f350 420000km. The truck is fairly new to me and will not start in the cold. Starts right up when plugged in, the odd time it idles rough for 20 seconds or so then smooths right out, it will generally start fine the rest of the day.

So first off I will tell you the things I have checked, batteries load tested fine, even swapped the batteries to be sure, terminals and leads are all clean, glow plug relay looks like it has been replaced at some point and this one tests out ok, glow plugs ohmed at .6-1.4 depending on the plug, 12volts at the power side of the harness, HPOP oil level was good, WTS light comes on, tried crossing the terminals on the GPR for 45 seconds or more still nothing, get puffs of white smoke when trying to start so getting fuel, fuel bowl is full, changed fuel filter, starter appears to be very new, as well as the fuel pump on the frame rail, the tach does move just a little when it tries to start. The only thing I haven't changed was the oil but will be doing that tomorrow and though I'm sure it could be the problem I find it unlikely as it doesn't seem overly thick but who knows.

I guess I'm just asking for a little guidance as what to check next. I do have a couple of questions:

On the GPR I get 12.2volts on the hot side and 10.8 on the other side when the key turns on and it stays on for a while, when I check the hot side it also drops to the same is this normal?

Is it possible the glow plugs have hydro and ohm out correctly but are not getting hot? I was debating popping the valve covers and removing them and checking to see if that was the case. I was just trying to avoid that if its not possible.

Anyways I'm sure this subject has been beat to death and I've searched and searched for answers on the questions I've asked and remedies to this situation but I'm at a loss and hoping someone can steer me in some kind of direction on where to go from here.

On a side note the truck is not kicking any codes and the previous owner replaced one injector though I can't remember which

Thanks in advance
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  #2  
Old 01-27-2013, 04:07 PM
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I have a similar issue, and I just keep it plugged in for now. I figured it to be a GP issue and haven't cared that much. It's also possible to be an injector issue. Could just be summer oil in cold weather. Folks report easier cold starts with 5w40 in the winter, as opposed to the 15w40 we normally run.

You can try running some Rev-X in your oil and seeing if that helps you out. I plan on doing that at some point to. Fixing it isn't high on my priorities, as the only place it stays the night is at my house, plugged in. I have plans on upgrading injectors when these completely crap out, and will replace GP's at the same time. My truck runs great at every other point except a cold start.

On the off chance that it doesn't get plugged in for the night, she blows white smoke in the morning as well. Not a whole lot, and not for long, but it blows it just like the diesels of old. Basically, I don't see it as a huge problem in it's current state, but it is a good warning of things to come. I have 166K on stock injectors, so I am leaning heavily on the idea that they're going out.

Rev-X has been reported to be some good stuff. Cleans and lubricates the injectors. The 6.0 guys I know that have used it have experienced great results.
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Old 01-27-2013, 04:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nickslawnltd View Post
First off I'm new here and would like to say hi. I've read about my issues here and some other forums and decided to join here as there seems to be many knowledgeable members. I have a 2001 f350 420000km. The truck is fairly new to me and will not start in the cold. Starts right up when plugged in, the odd time it idles rough for 20 seconds or so then smooths right out, it will generally start fine the rest of the day.

So first off I will tell you the things I have checked, batteries load tested fine, even swapped the batteries to be sure, terminals and leads are all clean, glow plug relay looks like it has been replaced at some point and this one tests out ok, glow plugs ohmed at .6-1.4 depending on the plug, 12volts at the power side of the harness, HPOP oil level was good, WTS light comes on, tried crossing the terminals on the GPR for 45 seconds or more still nothing, get puffs of white smoke when trying to start so getting fuel, fuel bowl is full, changed fuel filter, starter appears to be very new, as well as the fuel pump on the frame rail, the tach does move just a little when it tries to start. The only thing I haven't changed was the oil but will be doing that tomorrow and though I'm sure it could be the problem I find it unlikely as it doesn't seem overly thick but who knows.

I guess I'm just asking for a little guidance as what to check next. I do have a couple of questions:

On the GPR I get 12.2volts on the hot side and 10.8 on the other side when the key turns on and it stays on for a while, when I check the hot side it also drops to the same is this normal?

Is it possible the glow plugs have hydro and ohm out correctly but are not getting hot? I was debating popping the valve covers and removing them and checking to see if that was the case. I was just trying to avoid that if its not possible.

Anyways I'm sure this subject has been beat to death and I've searched and searched for answers on the questions I've asked and remedies to this situation but I'm at a loss and hoping someone can steer me in some kind of direction on where to go from here.

On a side note the truck is not kicking any codes and the previous owner replaced one injector though I can't remember which

Thanks in advance
The Glow Plugs are drawing over 150A, yes, the voltage is supposed to drop in the whole system, 10.8v is actually better than most (might mean they're not all working too...) If you have OHMed Out the GPs, and the results seem to be right, there wouldn't be anything that could give a false reading that I'm aware of. You've seen this? -> Troubleshooting GPR & GP's

For the best Cold Start results (say under 35F) here's what I would follow;

Forget the WTS light, it's not in any way connected to the GP system.

Over 20F, wait a Full min, with the key On, before you crank.

Under 20F, plug the block heater in for 3hrs (get a timer so it comes on before you leave in the morning) and wait 1-1/2 to 2 mins before you crank.

If you're routinely under 20, and especially if it's in the single digits, you will see a big improvement if you use a 5W-40 Synthetic motor oil (that 15W is pretty thick in those temps)

You have pretty high mileage, and depending on it's maintenance, there's a possibility you can be suffering with low compression. Cold starts are Really dependent on the compression being what it should be to ignite the charge and might be the first signs for you...

Try the easy stuff first, if everything else is right, you might want to have the compression taken (it's done through the GP holes so you'd get a look at 'em )

Edit; are you sure the block heater is working? Feel the block. above the oil filter, where the cord goes in to be sure
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Old 01-27-2013, 05:05 PM
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That's how I checked the glow plugs, I'm guessing maybe I should check the compression, I really didn't think that would be an issue as this truck seems to have more get up and go and umph, than an 02 f250 I owned from new that only had 90000km on it when I sold it
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Old 01-27-2013, 06:27 PM
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I'm having the same problem with mine. Did a buzz test and 2 of the 8 are a little weak so not sure if that is figuring into my issue. I picked up some stuff made by Archoil.com. Have not tried it yet to see if it would help mine. Good luck and hope you get it worked out.
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Old 01-28-2013, 04:46 AM
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New here - no cold start issues at a loss!

I had the same type problem with my 2000 F250, it would be hard to start at 60 degrees but I had a two part problem, current flow and stiction issues.First thing I did was check and clean cables which included checking for corrosion in the cables near the battery connections, I replaced my ground cable on drivers side because of this, and it also had a connector which was close to it's lifetime anyway.
I bought some prolong oil additive and after a oil change I drew out the oil in the hpop and put in 6 ounces of prolong and filled the rest with clean oil. This in itself did a lot for my cold starts, it greatly improved. I had oil leaks so in the next few weeks before the next oil change I fixed all of them, my starter was getting slower also so I put a 2bolt starter for a 2002 model on it, it is a lot faster turning starter than the original I had to modify the trigger wire connector slightly larger to fit the terminal.
So finally at the next oil change I went to 5w-40w synthetic and now mine starts and runs smooth at 28degrees! No more plugging it in at night.
John


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Old 01-29-2013, 12:19 AM
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New here - no cold start issues at a loss!

If you ever get stuck with no plug and it hard to get going jump the taller air intake heater really for a good 40 seconds and then try.


Sent from AutoGuide.com App
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Old 02-04-2013, 03:31 PM
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Ok so just an update here, I changed the oil out Rotetlla 5w40 synthetic, still no start.

On that note I had some time today removed both valve covers and removed all the glow plugs, on the drivers side they all seemed clean and heated up fine when testing with a battery charger, I also tested them in there wire harness to make sure they were heating up when turning the key, they did.

I then moved to the passenger side, removed all he glow plugs, they all seemed scaly, they heated right up on the battery tester, when I put them in the harness again grounded, turned the key on, they would smoke for about 10 seconds before starting to glow.

That they all turned red hot had me thinking they were working, called the dealership and got the diesel mechanic on the phone. He stated if they are scaly and discoloured that they are bad regardless that they fired they are bad.

Does this seem correct?

At this point since I have it all apart I'm going to change regardless for the cost of it all. Just curious why they would still glow if bad.
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