F-250 will not start in the cold

[PTinbound]

Hey all, I'm new to the forum here after googling my truck problems. Specifically, I live fairly north, near Chicago, where it's been getting well below freezing every night. I have a 2000 F-250 with the 7.3. If I plug it in, it starts right up. If I drive it around running errands and leave it unplugged while shopping, it starts right up. However, if I leave it unplugged in my driveway at night, I'm dead in the water. It will crank and crank, with smoke coming out the exhaust, but it will not start after being left out all night unplugged. My friend is a mechanic and suggested we replace the glow plugs, which we did. But it did not fix the problem. With brand new glow plugs, it still will not start when cold and unplugged. The wait to start light seems to be working normally. Any suggestions?

[catlinB]

Glow plug relay. There common failure.


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[gomer pyle]

look in the tech section. it tells how to test your relay

[DeGolyerent]

The glow plug relay will stay engaged for up to 2 minutes, mine at about 35degrees stays engaged for 1.5 minutes, you can watch the volt gauge and actually see it jump up slightly when it shuts off. You can also hear a click, the wait to start light has nothing to do with the length of time the relay stays engaged. Make sure and run low viscosity oil like 5w-40w synthetic in the cooler weather, there is test with volt meter as mentioned also for the relay.


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[kilapapipa]

How many miles? Your injectors are causing this issue. Either plug it in on a timer or get the injectors rebuilt.













YES, it is true.



From the SWAMPS website.

"Another function of normal poppet valve wear is poor valve sealing at the poppet...and with cold
(thick) engine oil...these damaged (poor sealing) valves can't allow the normal or proper amount
of HPOil to enter the injector..<<this cold oil/hot oil usually manifests itself as low power when
cold, runs good warm....or very hard/no starts when cold...and usually plugging the block heater
in (overnight) can warm the oil up enough to minimize these types of symptoms...
once the oil warms up (block heater or 10-15min of driving) can thin the oil out enough for a
larger volume of oil to get through the (worn) poppet valves...
FWIW- the poppet valve is probably the area of the injector least understood by 99% of injector
rebuilders out there...not saying we know it all...but we are confident enough to warranty ALL of
our 7.3L injs for 5yr/200k miles..."

[wick07]

I just purchased a 2000 7.3L. The past owner told me it needed injectors. Needless to say I got it for a steal, removed injectors had them tested. They were all fine I installed them and changed the oil (15w40) and drove it. Was fine, temp droPped and same problem you are describing. Changed the oil to 5w40 synthetic. Works like a dream. 3000 for a mint 7.3l crew cab long box lariat. And the price of two oil changes what a score!!! All I can say is these things are sensitive to oil. So change it regularly and make sure your viscositys are correct for the time of year and application. Just my 0.02 cents

[jesilvas]

Ok, it MIGHT be injectors. Not it is for sure.
Could be UVCH to GPs. Could be GPR.
All should be checked.

[kendallcschm]

i'd have to say it really sounds like a GPR to me.. i could be wrong.. i've worked on a 7.3L and your symptoms are the same as bad batteries (although it wouldn't crank for long) or a bad GPR (i'd say a few bad GPs but they're new)