2000 7.3 Cranking, no start and no smoke - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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Old 12-02-2012, 10:07 AM
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2000 7.3 Cranking, no start and no smoke

Hello,
I have been having a few issues with my truck lately and today it just wont start at all. A few weeks ago this started with my truck cranking slow due to dying batteries. I have replaced the batteries and had the same issue, so I had the electrical system tested and the alternator was bad, so I replaced it. Last week, it would not start again, this time the starter. Yesterday I replaced the starter and now the truck cranks, but will not fire. I have been trying to do research on this, but without a scan tool, I am kinda stuck. Until today my truck has always been able to start with a jump, but even with another truck hooked up the truck cranks great, but no start. I have included some information below, but if you need more please let me know. Thanks for all of your help.
Joe

2000 F350 7.3psd with 6sp manual
Intake and exhaust
Resistor Mod
Everything else stock
220k

Current Issue:
Cranking no start
Have WTS light
RPM during cranking is 100+
No smoke
Replaced starter, alternator, batteries, fuel filter and cleaned the air filter.
Tried removing the ICP and no change.
Checked all fuses and they are good

Any suggestions or comments?
THANKS!!!
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Old 12-02-2012, 10:37 AM
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What about the CPS? You're seeing that 100rpm on the tach when cranking?

How about the IPR? Give it a look (maybe a "smack" too, with a screwdriver to loosen a stuck pintle), make sure the tin-nut, that holds the solenoid on, is there and there are not exposed wires at the plug that might be touching...

What about fuel delivery? Bowl full? Drain & refill to be sure you have good supply to the filter housing.
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Old 12-02-2012, 10:52 AM
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NoRalPh, thanks for the quick reply.

I am not an expert, but I read somewhere that if you see the RPM on the Tach the CPS is ok? Please correct me if I am wrong. That is a cheap and pretty easy part to replace.

I do have good fuel delivery. I drained the bowl when I replaced the filter and saw that is re-filled.

Now with the IPR, I have not done anything. I was reading that is requries a special tool to remove? The nut is at the end and tight and the wiring looks good. Is there an easy way to get this off and look at it with just hand tools. My truck is stuck in a mud hole where a water main broke on my street and the town is all over me to move it.

Thanks again everyone.
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Old 12-02-2012, 11:47 AM
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You're absolutely right, on a 2000, you'll see that the CPS is doing it's job by looking at the tach needle (this changed on the mid '01's to 03's)

The quick & dirty IPR test you can do is to simply energize the solenoid on the IPR with 12v. There should be an audible "clack" as the solenoid throws the pintle (meaning it's free...)

Other than that, your fastest way to know why things aren't doing what they're-supposed-to is with the right scanner (tough to find on a Sunday afternoon, I'm sure). Absolutely no "smoke" makes me think no fuel, if there's fuel in the bowl then maybe either the injectors aren't injecting because of an electrical issue (IDM, UVCH, PCM, that kind of stuff) or there's a problem with the high pressure oil that drives them (HPOP, ICP, IPR). Could it be as simple as you're low on engine oil?

Both of these things are quickly checked with a scanner...
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Old 12-03-2012, 03:17 AM
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Am I using the scanner to check the codes or to see live data?
Can I use just an off the self can tool or do I need something like AutoEnginuity?

I have access to generic data logger, but it is not diesel specific.
Will that be enough or do I need to find AE somewhere?

I am in Westland, MI (outside of Detroit). Can anyone help me with AE or recommend a shop that won't rob me?

Thanks.
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Old 12-03-2012, 07:14 AM
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Any of the professional scanners should work (SnapOn, Ford, etc) and you're already aware that the AE is the best bang-for-the-buck for an individual. Unfortunately, because our trucks are not, strictly, OBD-II, the generic scanners are of little use...

You could try, your issue could be a generic one that the scanner will recognize, in most cases though what happens is the scan comes back "no codes found" where there Are codes to be read with the right equipment.

Maybe look in the "Hometown Forums" below, in your state, and ask for local help.
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