Electric gremlin killing my batteries. - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
Powerstroke.org is the premier Diesel Truck Forum on the internet. Registered Users do not see the above ads.
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1  
Old 08-28-2012, 08:57 AM
Powerstroke.org Fanatic
 

Join Date: May 2011
Posts: 139
Thanks: 1
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Electric gremlin killing my batteries.

Finally got my truck back from the body shop today after almost 2 months. When I picked her up the shop told me that they had been having problems getting her started so they disconnect the battery every time they moved her. I thought she just needed a good run. After getting her back to my warehouse to install the aftermarket bumpers I bought. I parked her in the back walked around to the front of the building opened up, unlocked rolling door, prepped the area to drive in and went to start her about 15-20 mins later. I got the dreaded ticking. How can I find out what is the root cause or at least eliminate what is not causing the problem. I forgot to mention that when we hooked up the battery at the body shop it sparked like there was a heavy draw of current.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #2  
Old 08-28-2012, 10:22 AM
Premium Member
 

Join Date: Jun 2012
Posts: 3,729
Thanks: 2
Thanked 20 Times in 20 Posts
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
I'm curious if the body shop smashed a wiring harness when they were doing their thing. Put an ammeter on the battery, start pulling fuses until the draw goes away. That will show you what circuit you need to trace to find the problem.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #3  
Old 08-28-2012, 12:52 PM
Compression Ignition Addict
 

Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 4,844
Thanks: 1
Thanked 80 Times in 75 Posts
Feedback Score: 3 reviews
While this is a great theory, and I've certainly used it in the past, things have gotten a Lot More Complicated in trying to use this method...

You'll need to completely take one of the batteries out of the equation and work with the other one. You also have to realize that you have a myriad of electronics running when you turn on the key. All this stuff takes up to 1/2hr to shut-down so you'll be seeing the draw lessening as time goes on. Open a door, turn the key, mess with almost Anything and you start stuff back up.

It's a complicated thing to do now-a-days Plus, add to that, that the actual Amount of draw you're supposed to have (and you Always are going to have a draw) changes with how your truck is equipped..

Here's where I'd start, unplug the Alt from the truck. Pull the fuses for the Instrument Cluster & Radio. Then see if things improve, these have been the most likely culprits.

If it works, connect each thing One at a time and wait (for as long as it takes to show-up, overnight, a day, whatever you're seeing now) to find out where the problem lies.

If you get no change, thinks get harder You can simply remove all the Even # fuses and look for a change. Then the Odd #, then 1/2 of the problem ones then the other 1/2 (you get it, hit or miss)

You can of course use an ammeter in series with one of the cables of a single battery and, once settled down, you should see under 2-3 Amps certainly. Pulling each fuse will show some have an effect but, again, some are supposed to be drawing current at all times...

I guess it depends on how quickly you need this resolved

Also, you could look to see that the GPR isn't stuck ON. If it were though you'd be seeing a HUGE spark and it would kill the batteries pretty quickly (under an hr to both be completely dead) so I've assumed you don't have That going on...

Last edited by NoRalPh; 08-28-2012 at 01:02 PM.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #4  
Old 08-28-2012, 01:08 PM
Premium Member
 

Join Date: Jun 2012
Posts: 3,729
Thanks: 2
Thanked 20 Times in 20 Posts
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Yes, doing it with one battery is definitely a help. I wasn't worried about all of the auxiliary systems, as interior lights pull minimal amps, and the issue is with key off drainage. By all means, disconnect the underhood light, and the interior lights to do this, but there will still be a significant enough drop in meter readings once he pulls the right fuse.

You bring up a good point about how so many things are interconnected, but that's why I said circuit, not wire.

Nothing should be pulling a legitimate amount of current at all times, otherwise we would need a jump every morning. Sure, the radio and other memory circuits will pull power all the time, but that takes months to drain a battery. To drain it over night requires a significant draw. Something that should only be drawing current with the key on (as interior lights are on a timer).
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #5  
Old 08-28-2012, 01:46 PM
Compression Ignition Addict
 

Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 4,844
Thanks: 1
Thanked 80 Times in 75 Posts
Feedback Score: 3 reviews
But wait, forget "doing it with one battery is definitely a help" though... If you do this on One battery while the other is still connected, the draw goes with the path of least resistance (which is Not through the meter )

If you don't do it with the other battery disconnected you're introducing too many variables. When I talk about the constant draw, and the pre-1/2hr shutdown, It's actually significant if you're looking for a 24hr effect on less-then-healthy batteries (I'm still not clear on how long this is taking for him to have the problem). This Does actually become (after the 1/2hr) a sustainable draw that will not effect anything for some time (mine became @120mA as I remember) and I agree, although I'm not sure about the term "legitimate", that an overnight kill would be a significant amount of loss for it to kill 2, fully charged, healthy batteries.

As I said, I've tried using a meter in series Many times on Many different vehicles, I just found this to have gotten less useful as things get more complicated (and am not even considering things like lighting, there is a combined, significant draw from the various systems at first and you really do have to wait for them to settle-down to do this right)
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #6  
Old 08-28-2012, 03:17 PM
Premium Member
 

Join Date: Jun 2012
Posts: 3,729
Thanks: 2
Thanked 20 Times in 20 Posts
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
You are absolutely right. I think we're in agreement on principle, just not the way to figure it out. I have read many of your other posts and you definitely have more experience working on these than I do, so I will submit to that experience.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #7  
Old 08-29-2012, 09:07 AM
Powerstroke.org Fanatic
 

Join Date: May 2011
Posts: 139
Thanks: 1
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Ok, I took my multimeter to it and it pegged the neddle as soon as I put the red wire from the meter in series with the positive pole on the battery and the black wire to the positive cable. This truck was stolen and the ignition switch was replaced. I pulled both the 20 and 21 fuses for the ignition that are 50A waited over an hour and neddle still pegging. How to I check the glow plug relay?

Last edited by 7.3Leader; 08-29-2012 at 09:10 AM.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #8  
Old 08-29-2012, 09:43 AM
Compression Ignition Addict
 

Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 4,844
Thanks: 1
Thanked 80 Times in 75 Posts
Feedback Score: 3 reviews
What made you choose those fuses? Just because they were 50A?

Disconnect the Alt.

Remove the Instrument Cluster & Radio fuses.

Disconnect either one of the Large wires going to the GP Relay.

What scale is your meter on? In most cases you're limited to no more than 10A on a MultiMeter. Digital ones often Less...
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #9  
Old 08-29-2012, 11:01 AM
Powerstroke.org Fanatic
 

Join Date: May 2011
Posts: 139
Thanks: 1
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
I started with the two ignition fuses because the ignition was broken and replaced. Since work was done in that area I started with that.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #10  
Old 08-29-2012, 11:55 AM
Powerstroke.org Fanatic
 

Join Date: May 2011
Posts: 139
Thanks: 1
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Here is a picture of the setting on my multimeter while I take the reading. Do I have it set correctly?

Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
If you do not want to register, fill this field only and the name will be used as user name for your post.
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.



Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On



All times are GMT -8. The time now is 04:05 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.1
Garage Plus, Vendor Tools vBulletin Plugins by Drive Thru Online, Inc.

vB.Sponsors