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post #1 of 12 Old 08-17-2012, 03:44 PM Thread Starter
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New thread, gonna find the fix!

Ok I realise I already have a thread up here.....


Quote:
-Also posted in 911 forums.

Got a pretty big scare here. Just got stationed up in indian head md, dont really know any mechs or shops yet so ill see if you guys can help me pre-diagnose the issue.

Was pulling out of CVS this evening and got on it, nothing crazy maybe 15lb's of boost, when all of a sudden it began to sound like it was defueling then this huge "POP" like a hose blew off or something, immediately following the pop the engine started running extremely rough (boost gauge fluttering like crazy, lack of accelleration power) and shaking VIOLENTLY, to the point of being hard to drive. Also it sounded like an exhaust leak or something was making a really loud "clanking" noise.

Immediately pulled into a parking lot popped the hood scanned everything above and below (left the truck running because i CANNOT get towed back onto base) and couldnt find any leaks and all hoses were secure. I bit the bullet and made the decision to drive it back to base appx. 15 miles, when about half way back the clanking noise stopped, however it still shakes really bad at low rpm accelleration, and the boost gauge is fluttering like crazy still, and EGT's were 100-150 degrees warmer and total lack of power in every gear.

I dont have any tools down here they are all still in storage @ camp lejeune, so im searching for someone in my new unit who has the hook up but until then anyone ever experience anything similar?

6637mod, 4" straight exhaust
-No white smoke
-When it did happen there was ALOT of black smoke
-Fluids all look good, oil is good and coolant lvl is proper

Also if anyone knows anyone or is close to the Indian Head/Waldorf areas whos interested in tackling a project feel free to shoot me a pm, i have a big cedit card, just didnt want this to be the reason i start my build on this truck and dont have a 2nd vehicle to drive yet!

Would the dealership be the best place to go and get codes pulled? Gonna check the oil to see if theres any coolant in it as well. I have a buddy who lives appx 2.5 hours away gotta wait till payday and gonna attempt to make the trip there, just wanna get codes pulled and try to pinpoint the possible issue before getting it into the shop. Were thinking possibly head gaskets.
Ok ive searched a million threads over the past week, what i originally thought the problem was is not the problem at all. Some updated info:

-Egts are running roughly 100 degrees warmer,
-Im definitely leaning towards a turbo issue here, it lacks boost, seeming like theres a significant boost leak somewhere. Would this cause the MASSIVE vibration in the entire truck when running in Overdrive between 1500 & 2000 rpms?
-Ive got the shop on base with tools here to use so tomorrow morning first thing im going to check the ICP sensor and see if it has oil on it, also check out the UVCH wires see if theres a problem there and thoroughly inspect the turbo to the best of my ability, and try to clean out the EBP tube and see if that helps. Tonight it wouldnt start, wouldnt crank even just clicked, thought i had bad batteries so i jumped it off the drivers side battery and had them both tested (and turned out better than good, both batts over 1000 cranking amps), not sure whats going on there. Every single thread ive looked in with similar issues (lack of power, turbo surge, etc) dead ends with no fix or solution follow up ever posted, that wont happen here. If i dont get it figured out tonight its going to a local shop and im gonna take the reaming on the wallet. This is my only worry in the world now, and i will stop at NO expense to fix my precious

heres a link to the best quality sounding video i can get, sounds like a frickin rattle snake and shakes so bad, if i were a female id prolly be making some funny noises (sorry for the vulgarity thats the best analogy i can come up with!)

2000 7.3 turbo issue - YouTube

2000 F250 7.3 4wD
DIY6637, EBPV delete housing/pedestal, Autometer Boost/EGT/Trans Temp

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post #2 of 12 Old 08-18-2012, 10:04 PM
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Sounds like you blew an intercooler boot.

Now, the cool part is, I have had them let go along a seam, or in general in a linear fashion, and you cannot see the split in the boot, unless it is under pressure.

Have a seriously close look at all the boots, especially the one on the passenger side, at the charge cooler inlet.


Good luck
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post #3 of 12 Old 08-19-2012, 07:01 AM Thread Starter
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Did all the driver side yesterday, also pulled the icp and it had some oil gonna go through the passenger side boots today, also have a small pool of oil under the turbo.

2000 F250 7.3 4wD
DIY6637, EBPV delete housing/pedestal, Autometer Boost/EGT/Trans Temp

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post #4 of 12 Old 08-27-2012, 09:28 AM Thread Starter
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updates: havent been able to work on the truck at all really, tearing into it this week though! got a list of goodies ordered from guzzle, upgrading the turbo wheel, hpop and fuel re-seal and after pulling codes only got p0603/p0605, weve narrowed it down to either a cylinder going bad or uvch is loose. Also gonna re-seal the turbo and do a real good inspection while i have all of that pulled out to see if i can figure this out. Buzz test checked out 100% they all sounded strong. Also doing the ebpv delete with a new housing and pedestal, figured while im throwing money at it might as well not hold back eh?

2000 F250 7.3 4wD
DIY6637, EBPV delete housing/pedestal, Autometer Boost/EGT/Trans Temp

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post #5 of 12 Old 08-29-2012, 05:07 PM Thread Starter
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alright another nights hard work, so far ive done the early 99 wheel upgrade, ebpv delete(housing and pedestal, when i get a chance ill upload to show how bad the leak was). Since i pinpointed most of the oil in the valley to the ebpv area it was soaking wet with oil, and replaced all the o-rings on the turbo, ive essentially fixed nothing.

HOWEVER upon getting her put back together and started up and realizing we did absolutely nothing i think we found the actual issue......up-pipe leak!!! I took her for a test drive and was getting ZERO boost, all i could hear was a thumping/hissing sound like something wasnt hooked up properly, well me and another guy at the shop popped the hood and our first thought was down pipe, so he watched as i revved the proverbial **** out of her and we pinpointed smoke coming from the up pipe side, would this cause the drastic loss in boost and thumping sound/ really bad shaking at low rpms (in over driver at 1500-2000 rpm if you touch the accellerator it rattles your brain)?

Gonna do some more research on the up-pipe leak before i throw another 500$ at her

2000 F250 7.3 4wD
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post #6 of 12 Old 08-29-2012, 05:14 PM Thread Starter
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Best quality i can achieve ill do some more tomorrow morning, ANY input or advice on where to go from hear would be greatly appreciated, im ALMOST at my wits end but im not broke yet!


Up pipe leak? - YouTube

7.3 up pipe leak maybe - YouTube

sorry for the horrible videos again lol as i said i cant text or record and drive if i wanted to

2000 F250 7.3 4wD
DIY6637, EBPV delete housing/pedestal, Autometer Boost/EGT/Trans Temp

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post #7 of 12 Old 08-30-2012, 05:54 AM Thread Starter
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nobody has any kind of advice? Im worried its a cylinder or worse yet...

2000 F250 7.3 4wD
DIY6637, EBPV delete housing/pedestal, Autometer Boost/EGT/Trans Temp

USMC Active 08-Present
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post #8 of 12 Old 09-04-2012, 01:46 PM Thread Starter
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alright update, didnt get to work on it this weekend, however did a full run of diagnostics with the snap on scanner pulled,

P0475
P0605
P0476
P0272

gonna be doing a boost leak test, as well as ordering my new up pipes tomorrow hopefully, and plan on getting a new ICP sensor since mines full of oil as well, any advice on these codes, i looked them up any suggestions on the common issues/ fixes with them would be appreciated.

2000 F250 7.3 4wD
DIY6637, EBPV delete housing/pedestal, Autometer Boost/EGT/Trans Temp

USMC Active 08-Present
0311 for life, OEF x2 WIA x3 and loving life!
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post #9 of 12 Old 09-07-2012, 02:52 PM Thread Starter
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Heres the verdict this far, pulled the valve covers off tonight, wanted to check that #4 cylinder code, and sure enough my soul was crushed.....my poor baby......






got two rods ready to be picked up in the morning, anyone know how to replace them, i sure as heck dont!

Also, another question, on the right rod side it seems as if it has "chewed" or bored out that hole that they sit in (im talking about the slot, not the actual grove on the bottom) the sleeve part going ino the head to help line it up, think its just gonna keep breaking them and i need a new head? anyone have experience with this im in need of MUCH ADVICE thanks in advance!

2000 F250 7.3 4wD
DIY6637, EBPV delete housing/pedestal, Autometer Boost/EGT/Trans Temp

USMC Active 08-Present
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post #10 of 12 Old 09-09-2012, 07:54 PM
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well, since you got all the pieces out, have a look down the lifter bores to be sure there isn't any major damage to the lifters. Basically just remove the bolts that hold the rocker levers on, pop the rockers off for that cylinder, lube the new pushrods, and drop them in. Re assemble, with the VC off, and rotate the engine over by hand for several revolutions, just to be sure that the valves are not bent, or otherwise contacting where they shouldn't.

If all is well, re-assemble the engine, and drive happily into the sunset.
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