Compression Ignition Addict
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Western New York
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A few months ago while changing the fuel filter I had the fuel bowl heater short out. Unplugged it, replaced the fuse (#30, 30A) and it was good. A few weeks ago, it had the same symptoms. (No WTS or SES lights, cranks, no start) Figured somehow it blew again, I checked it. It was good. Put another fuse in, just to make sure. Worked. Put the one I just took out back in (to verify it was bad), and it worked this time. A few days later, it does it again. Open the fuse box, push #30 back in, and it worked. Trying to leave work on Saturday, I just couldn't get it to connect. Took 30+ minutes, but I got it. Drove home, back out and home. Worked fine. Sunday afternoon trying to leave for work, nothing. Gave up and got a ride in. Today thinking maybe the fuses are made slightly too thin, I switched it out for the other 30A in the box. Same thing. But I noticed I couldn't pull this one out by hand. The #30 holder is much looser than the other 30A fuse holder. (bottom left spot, not sure what #)
I've tried more fuses (from the same box). If I hold it to the left (pushing the right side of the fuse) it will connect, but I can't let it go, or it will stall. If I move it around, it will connect at times, for a second. (Key on, watching for WTS light) It has never actually fallen out, or came loose while driving, once it stays connected on its own. This includes driving over a really bad set of train tracks at 45+.
Is it possible I could just pinch the connectors behind that fuse back together? Is that a permanent fix, or will I end up doing it again in a week? I can't see in there real good, but it looks like it may have some corrosion. But it could just be discolored from shorting out. Do they sell just the fuse holder/ connections separate? (Almost like adding another fuse for accessories, but just to replace that one.) I didn't see anything like that while I was looking at new fuse boxes at work from Ford.
2000 F-350 CC LB DRW 4x4 XLT Auto