Loose Fuse

[Tj Krawler]

A few months ago while changing the fuel filter I had the fuel bowl heater short out. Unplugged it, replaced the fuse (#30, 30A) and it was good. A few weeks ago, it had the same symptoms. (No WTS or SES lights, cranks, no start) Figured somehow it blew again, I checked it. It was good. Put another fuse in, just to make sure. Worked. Put the one I just took out back in (to verify it was bad), and it worked this time. A few days later, it does it again. Open the fuse box, push #30 back in, and it worked. Trying to leave work on Saturday, I just couldn't get it to connect. Took 30+ minutes, but I got it. Drove home, back out and home. Worked fine. Sunday afternoon trying to leave for work, nothing. Gave up and got a ride in. Today thinking maybe the fuses are made slightly too thin, I switched it out for the other 30A in the box. Same thing. But I noticed I couldn't pull this one out by hand. The #30 holder is much looser than the other 30A fuse holder. (bottom left spot, not sure what #)

I've tried more fuses (from the same box). If I hold it to the left (pushing the right side of the fuse) it will connect, but I can't let it go, or it will stall. If I move it around, it will connect at times, for a second. (Key on, watching for WTS light) It has never actually fallen out, or came loose while driving, once it stays connected on its own. This includes driving over a really bad set of train tracks at 45+.

Is it possible I could just pinch the connectors behind that fuse back together? Is that a permanent fix, or will I end up doing it again in a week? I can't see in there real good, but it looks like it may have some corrosion. But it could just be discolored from shorting out. Do they sell just the fuse holder/ connections separate? (Almost like adding another fuse for accessories, but just to replace that one.) I didn't see anything like that while I was looking at new fuse boxes at work from Ford.

[NoRalPh]

Go to the Auto Parts store and get one of those "Tap-A-Fuse" connectors that slide in next to the fuse blade (I bet someone had one of those it there at some time and spread the connector inside "open" more that it was)

Cut the brass strip down to the fuse, so it doesn't present the danger of shorting on something, and reinsert the fuse. It should now be as tight as it was supposed to be when new

[Tj Krawler]

Originally Posted by NoRalPh

Go to the Auto Parts store and get one of those "Tap-A-Fuse" connectors that slide in next to the fuse blade (I bet someone had one of those it there at some time and spread the connector inside "open" more that it was)

Cut the brass strip down to the fuse, so it doesn't present the danger of shorting on something, and reinsert the fuse. It should now be as tight as it was supposed to be when new

That could work... I still have the original, blown fuse. The two prongs are bent outwards. I don't know if that's from the PO or if it warped when it blew.

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[venturesomerite]

You can also bend the legs of the fuse in opposing directions a little. This will allow it to make good contact with the sides, if they are spread out. I had to do this with my headlight fuse. PO must have used one of those things in there, and haven't had a problem since.

[Tj Krawler]

Originally Posted by venturesomerite

You can also bend the legs of the fuse in opposing directions a little. This will allow it to make good contact with the sides, if they are spread out. I had to do this with my headlight fuse. PO must have used one of those things in there, and haven't had a problem since.

That's what I was thinking while looking at the original fuse. Possibly a good thing I still have it sitting on my desk. It's great to hear it does actually work. I'll try bending one tomorrow, at least as a temporary fix.


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[Tj Krawler]

Bent the fuse today... a little more than I wanted to. But it went in and felt secure. It works again! It'll be nice to be able to drive it to work today. never knew I would miss driving it that much... in 2 days.

Thanks guys.

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