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Only will start with starting fluid

32K views 31 replies 13 participants last post by  Instructor 
#1 ·
My 99 7.3 will not start in the morning after a cold night. I plug it in at night but in morning I turn the key to on, wait till relay kicks off, then try to start. No luck. After a few minutes of trying smoke comes out from under hood (like exhaust or something). The only way to start is to spray a little starting fluid. I know this is not good but what other choice do I have.
 
#3 ·
I just got it last weekend. The oil was just changed he said. I have no idea on the fuel filter. It runs after fluid spray, so wouldn't that eliminate filter? I'm new to this, it's my first diesel.
 
#4 ·
See if you can notice a current draw when plugging it in. Feel the engine around the block heater to confirm operation after having it plugged in for a couple hours. Jump the two large posts on the glow plug relay. Notice if there is a current draw and start engine after jumping for 30 seconds.
It is sounds like the block heater is dead. Glow plug problems could be 1. relay 2. glow plugs 3. glow plug connections.
It should start with either the block heater or the glow plugs working.
 
#5 ·
glow plugs or not, it shouldn't take minutes to start. what have the temps been? make sure when you do use starter fluid that you disarm the glowplugs. I'm still trying to figure out the smoke. change your fuel filter because you should do that anyway. check oil just to make sure.
 
#6 ·
How old are the batteries? I was having trouble with mine - changed the batteries (yes, both of them) - no more problems even with single digit temperatures. I was told that this engine needs to turn at some minimum speed before it will start, my old batteries just weren't up to the job.
 
#7 ·
A few days ago I walked out to my truck and same thing... I did not use starting fluid though, not taking any chances! I just drove another vehicle. I have a 2000 F350 Crew cab long bed 6spd manual. I knew the night before it was even colder so it didn't make sense. So I went and got my ohm meter and it was way low when I touched it to the prongs on the cord. I moved the cord around and it jumped up, I figured out that the wires were no longer connected to the prongs on the end. I assume its from people pulling on the cord to disconnect the heater rather than the plastic end. A new cord is 120 bucks from ford! So I bought a universal end from Lowes to fix the problem. So check your cord, thats at least a starting point. Good luck!
 
#8 ·
I don't disable the gp's when I use the starting fluid. How do I? :dunno: It has been around 26 in the mornings when I start. I have no other vehicle so starting fluid is my only way to work. It hasn't damaged anything yet. Still, I do not want to use it. It looks like it has a new relay on it. (FYI)
 
#9 ·
are you sure the block heater is working? you may need new GPs. changing the fuel filter would bea good idea whether thats the problem or not.
you can disconnect the GR relay to disable the GPs
 
#11 ·
I tested the block heater with ohm meter and it read about 2.6 to 3 ohms between both prongs. Is this good or bad?
 
#12 ·
bump :dunno:
 
#14 ·
After you've had it plugged in at night, when you turn your key on to 'Run' and get the Wait-To-Start light, your temp gauge should not be sitting at the bottom. Mine usually comes up just below the bottom 'Normal' line. If it doesn't, I'd suspect the BH isn't actually working.

I agree with checking your Glow Plug Relay and/or Glow Plugs. When it is real cold, they should stay on for about 2 mins, even though the WTS light has gone out. If the GPR / GPs are working right, you should get the old boy to kick even without it being plugged in.

Also, are you running any kind of fuel additive that has anti-gel capabilities in it? If your fuel is gelled or semi-gelled, it could be another reason for your boy to not wanna start. Power Service's Diesel Kleen (White bottle) is probably one of the easiest to get a hold of. You can get it at Walmart. If you have a truck stop nearby, they may carry a different brand that would work too.
 
#15 ·
I am running additive. The gpr stays on for about 30-45 sec. at most in morning. It looks fairly new, I have it unplugged now because of using starting fluid every morning.
 
#16 ·
Easiest way to tell if your GPR is cycling, Just watch the volt gauge on the dash...My GPR is on its way out, and i have to cycle the key a few times and i can hear it click and see the volt gauge draw down a bit when it finally makes contact
 
#17 ·
I was going to write the exact same thing! Mine is on the way out too, it doesn't "take" every time I turn the key so I have to watch my voltmeter. If it goes high right away (the WTS light comes on just like normal though) I know the glow plugs are not on so I just cycle the ignition switch again until the voltage stays low.
 
#18 ·
I think its too late for me to check my relay, my GP's are probably fried from the starting fluid every morning for the last 2 weeks.
 
#19 ·
Ok, so I changed the GPR today because its cheap and I just wanted to try that. The truck tries to start now but just wont do it. After about 45 seconds the dash dummy lights come on and truck starts beeping. Also it sounds like it doesn't want to crank much more. Is this pointing towards GP's or batteries?
 
#21 ·
I have the GP system disabled now.
 
#22 ·
Mine did the same thing and it was the batteries. The batteries in theses have to be almost perfect from what I've read on here. This makes sense because the batteries that were bad for this truck have started a car and a boat for a year no problem. A battery in a diesel running glow plugs that draw 180 amps I think and then has to turn the beast of an engine need to be in excellent condition. Whats too weak for our trucks will start a car for years.
 
#23 ·
Ok, I changed batteries today, still no start....
Must be GP's ? :dunno:
 
#25 ·
Before you change the glow plugs have you had a chance to check the injector control pressure? If you glow pug wts light is coming on for approxiametly 7-10 seconds then goes off chances are that your glow plugs are okay. It is a possibility that it could be them but may not be. Many times it may be the solenoid on the control pressure that is mounted to the bottom right (facing the front of the engine) of the high pressure oil pump. This happens whether it is cold or not. It is not real easy to get to but sets below the fuel filter housing at the bottom of the Hight Pressure oil pump. It has a wiring harness (usually one wire with a connector). Unplug it from the sensor and take a socket and come in from behind (center of V in engine) and take off thin nut and pull sensor solenoid off. Go to parts store and purchase a new one. Oriellys, pep boys ect....... most sell this part. put on in reverse order and hopefully it will start. This contolls how much oil is deverted to the oil galleys to the injectors or to the bypass. You can test this part once it is off. Ohm test should can read between 25-125. if the reading is infinite (no reading at all) it means the wiring on the inside is burned into therefor not allowing propper control pressure to you injectors not allowing them to fuction propperly. I know it can be frustrating but look at it this way, you have learned a lot from this experience (maybe more than you ever cared too :) Hope this helps.
 
#27 ·
If you decide that the glowpugs need to be pulled becareful when pulling the valve covers. The gasket below the cover is also the harness conectors. You can damage these parts by incorrectly disconnecting the wiring. This can also be a the cause of your problem and smoke. If one of these (the gasket/harness) have burned into or the internal glowplub wiring connections have burned it will not allow it to start. Chances are if one side has already burned out the other will not be far behind. Powerstrokes will not start without starting fluid in the winter if these are faulty. You gotta love electronics. They may have increased horsepower and efficiency but can be a pain in the powerstroke.... if you don't have the right diagnostic equipment.
 
#28 ·
starter fluid is bad

try to never use starting fluid on diesels at least eather. if anythinguse a silicone spray. one you use starting fluid a couple times the truck gets "addictied" to it. it just wears away at the cylinder walls and creates loss of compression. and will eventually mass up the whole engine.
 
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