7.3 wont start. Auto Enginuity HELP - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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Old 01-14-2011, 05:59 PM
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7.3 wont start. Auto Enginuity HELP

My 01 1.3 Wont start, and hasnt started for six or so months.
New batterys and a glow plug relay did not do the trick. So replaced the glow plugs and the batyerys a second time. Ran for a little bit, like a day.
Now back to square one. No clue what is wrong.
Bought the Auto Enginuity w/ the ford expantion pack but im not sure what Im looking for. No code come up.

Please help.... Im tired of driving a 98 Z24 convertable Cavalier. HELP ME>>>
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Old 01-14-2011, 06:35 PM
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Going to need some more detail.

Do you have a check engine light on?

What are the temps? When did you last fill the tank, how much is still in the tank, and have you added any additives?
Do you get a Wait To Start light that stays on for 5-10 seconds?
Does it crank over at all? Are the batteries ran down now? If it cranks over, do you get any white smoke from your exhaust?

My first thought is perhaps the alternator is shot so your 1 day of use sucked them down to where they can't start it again. I recall reading on here that the computer needs to see a certain minimum rpm before it'll activate the injectors.
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Old 01-14-2011, 07:01 PM
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The batts were brand new when I put them in today. And I also put in a reman-d Alt today too. It was bout 50 or 60 today. Truck has quarter of a tank of gas. WTS light comes on and goes off. No check engine light. Getting fuel to bowl. Kind of sounds like it starts slow, like I killed the starter from the last try. Bought the AE to pin point the problem but still lost.
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Old 01-14-2011, 07:54 PM
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If it's that warm you can probably get by without the glow plugs working, let alone worrying about winter diesel. I'm not sure if you'll have a code to retrieve if the CEL isn't on however.

Did you have any white smoke from the exhaust when you tried to start it today? If not, then I'd be wondering if it's turning over fast enough to allow the computer to turn on the injectors.

Have you checked the battery and starter cables? I'd be tempted to see if it'd start using one of those battery charger/starter carts.

Does it ever catch on a cylinder?
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Old 01-14-2011, 08:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HWY64T&A View Post
The batts were brand new when I put them in today. And I also put in a reman-d Alt today too. It was bout 50 or 60 today. Truck has quarter of a tank of gas. WTS light comes on and goes off. No check engine light. Getting fuel to bowl. Kind of sounds like it starts slow, like I killed the starter from the last try. Bought the AE to pin point the problem but still lost.
I killed a starter when my fuel pump went out
I had to replace 2 autozone alternators and 2 sets of Duralast Gold batteries cuz it is all pretty much crap.
Don Chalmers installed 2 new motorcraft batteries and an alternator (800.00 later). After killing batteries AGAIN it turns out even the dealer used a reman alternator that went bad in 1 day
Good luck fellow NMcan, hope you get it goin. Did you try CPS? You may have said already ???
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Old 01-14-2011, 08:14 PM
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P.S.......
Sign up at Southwest Coal Rollers and talk with a guy named Newly from Farmington or Durango. I guarantee he will lend a hand
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Old 01-14-2011, 08:37 PM
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Not to sure if Im getting white smoke. Tricky setup under the truck.
It chugs every once in a wile, but just keeps spining. What kind ok volts do I need to start? And what if Im not geting white smoke during start up?
And what sensors should I be watching?
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Old 01-14-2011, 09:36 PM
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Possibly a shorted fuel heater in the bowl. Check the fuse, #30 IIRC. If bad, disconnect heater, then replace fuse. It'll be fine as long as it is not really cold. 10.5 volts, 500 rpm... coupla other things I forget are required to start. Good luck!
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Old 01-14-2011, 09:43 PM
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Fuel heater is good, volts good, but RPM no where nere that high. Im not even hiting 200 RPM.
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Old 01-14-2011, 10:36 PM
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Edit: brain fart here. 500 is the psi the ICP needs to make, rpm needs only to be 100. AE can read the ICP while cranking. Check oil is full, both in crankcase and in HPOP. HPOP has (very tight) allen head bolt on top, pull it out and oil should be within an inch of the top. You can also pull the ICP wire off, the PCM wil use a default value. Did you try a new CPS?

Not been mentioned in this thread as far as I know, so just as an FYI, starter fluid (ether) is a big no-no.

Good Luck!
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Last edited by aawlberninF350; 01-14-2011 at 10:57 PM.
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