Hi folks, finally bought myself the truck ive dreamed of for a long time, got it home, and it wont start
I put a voltmeter to batteries last night and got 12.8
12.0 w headlights on
I would think that is enough to crank, but it wont crank.
Im stumped and thinking it has to be a started or a relay, here is a video of me trying to start it
Factory -
AC/PW/PL/PS/PM/CC (CC and PL not working ATM - working on it)
Black over silver - Exterior is probably a 7/10. 9/10 if you take into consideration age and miles.
Grey cloth - Interior is 9/10. Very light wear is the only thing keeping it from 10/10.
Harley badges and running boards.
New brakes all around in the last year.
Rebuilt front end - u-joints, hubs, bearings, steering stab.
New Skyjacker Shocks - Lifetime warranty
New carrier bearing
New driveshaft
Rear diff flushed and resealed
New batteries
New alternator
New NAPA Warrantied starter
New starter solenoid
Aftermarket -
Bed Crane
trailer brake
Hole in bed for gooseneck, liner covers it.
Pre-runner push bar
Off-Road fog lights
Turbo timer
Viper alarm w/electric start.
Autometer gauges - Boost, pyro, tranny in 3 gauge pod.
Fuel pressure gauge
6" Skyjacker softride lift - new rear springs - 5k ago
3" Body Lift
WARN Hubs
16x10 American Racing wheels
38x15.5x16 Extreme ATs - E rated - 40k warranty, ~15k on them
NAPA 6637
Tonnau cover
Transmission Fully rebuilt by Brockport Transmission (7/2010)
- New Billet TC
- New valve body and shift kit
- New Case
- New Tail housing
- WARRANTY good through 7/2014
Vegistroke V3 Vegetable oil kit. I have over $4000 invested into making this truck run on clean waste vegetable oil. It has been burning vegetable oil trouble free since 8/08. I have a couple hundred gallons and a case of filters I can give to the buyer as well as contacts for cheap, clean/filtered oil. This will reduce your cost/mile to almost nothing. Do not fear veggie oil. If filtered and burned properly nothing bad can happen to your motor. Ignore the horror stories you've heard in the past about people blowing up their motors. They were doing it wrong!
I've only ever run synthetic in the motor since I've owned it. All fluids are currently synthetic.
Motor - I can probably answer any and all questions about this motor if you have any.
Rebuild was not necessary, no block damage or head damage. I thought it blew a headgasket but it turned out to be a bad injector o-ring problem with a bad waterpump. Bearings were as expected for miles and were replaced because they were cheap insurance.
Approx 2k on rebuild.
- Rosewood 250cc 200% Injectors w/new o-rings/washers - Very low miles. These will make all the power anyone would want or need. Hybrids are the best injectors made, Rosewood builds the best. These were $3200 new.
The following parts were new :
- 8 injector cups
- Comp Cam 910s - shimmed
- Felpro head gaskets
- ARP Head Studs - $600
- 8 glow plugs - Motorcraft
- Rod bearings
- Main bearings
- Front seal
- Rear seal
- Oil Pan (This is over $3000 at the dealer)
- Dip stick housing and fitting
- Up-pips donuts
- Up-pipe bolts/washers/nuts (Stainless)
- Pedistal o-rings
- New UVCHs
Im thinking i have a starter or solenoid problem
I think there is a way to skip a solenoid right? how to i bridge it, where is the starter, ill get under there into the snow with my multimeter
thanks
You can jump the solenoid with a screwdriver, just bridge the gap between the two big posts. Watch out though there is a lot of juice so make sure you aren't touching any metal when you do it.
The starter is at the back of the motor, passenger side. Also check what voltage you are getting from the big cable coming from the engine compartment, that is the cable connected to the battery. I had mine corrode internally and it wouldn't let enough juice through.
It might be worth it to take the starter out and have it tested if possible.
If you are just turning the key and get a click, my bet would be solenoid.
Hello, I went underneath, im getting 10 v to starter
battery is at 12.15
Im thinking it should still crank at 10 v
where is the solenoid, passenger side just back from battery towards firewall.
I see two devices there, which is the solenoid.
Thank you
A quick test-sounds like you may have,clip a meter on battery and hit the switch and get glow plugs on-that's a good quick test on batteries / connections :thumb:
only puttting out 12 volts this morning,
jumping terminals on the solenoid doesnt get any cranking, however i did here the starter wheel engage. (pop out). I may go get battery receipts from the last owner today, he has receipts for the battery and the solenoids and they are all under warranty
Well, my wife wouldnt let me use her car to go to work, so she said fix your truck. So i went outside, took off the starter had it tested, changed the solenoid and nothing
then I changed the starter fuse. And I was golden.
I do have other issues, Im hoping someone could help me and wondering if i should create a new thread
btw, it was awesome to drive my new truck
dome light comes on at random, whilst driving, accompanied by clicking sound near my left knee (gem?)
Starter is randomly engaging whilst in park( i am quite sure this will destroy the teeth on the starter, or maybe worse)
what would cause these issues
Again
thank you everyone for your help
turned out
I had a bad relay
changed that
Also had a starter that was testing good at autozone but was unable to provide the torque to start the motor
Bought one on rock auto!
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