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1999 Powerstroke will crank but not start

11K views 18 replies 8 participants last post by  Isakson 
#1 ·
This truck has me stumped. I bought the truck a few weeks ago knowing that it did not run (got a great deal). Towed the truck to my shop and looked it over. Everything seemed to be in order. It had been sitting for a while. Put one new battery in it and hit the key. It turned over real slow and the starter was intermitent. Put the truck on charge for an hour and replaced the starter the truck was cranking good at that point. After a couple minuets of off and on cranking I got the thing to start (I hit the jackpot). Smoked heavy and idled rough for a few minuets then cleared out and idled smooth. Took it for a test drive ran great, good power and throttle response. Pulled it back in my shop and shut it off and thats the last time it has ran. I have read many threads on here and checked everything I can think of (fuses, harneses, hpop level, battery voltage, fuel filter). I pulled the valve covers checked every connection.

When the batteries are up good it acts like it wants to start but just wont do it. I did bump it with a shot of either once and it did actually fire up but I had to hold the pedal at full throttle to keep it running and it would not get over 1000 rpm sounded terrible.

This truck is a 2001 F350 with 74,000miles. It does has a history with the engine though. The guy I bought it from had the heads off and had them redone. Not sure why? or if it even needed that. Also the exhaust back pressure valve has the harness connector broken off. I took the turbo exhaust tube off and verified that the valve was in the open position and then tied the control arm so that it can not close just to be safe.

I have a cheap scanner and the only codes are the exhaust backpresure valve, Keep alive memory, and P1316 IDM codes detected.

Any ideas or help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance.
 
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#2 ·
You might need an IDM. those are pricey though so trade outta another truck to check?
 
#3 ·
Is there any way to test this. Could I unplug the valve cover harnes and check for 110 volts on each injector. Also would a buzz test work if the idm is bad. I ordered a scanner that will do a buzz test.

I am also thinking it could be a high pressure oil problem would like to test pressure but dont have gauges.
 
#5 ·
P1316 means you need to do an injector buzz test in order to retireve IDM codes. When you had the valve covers off did you make sure the valve cover gasket was connected fully to the injector harness. These are notorious for coming loose right at that connection. This only applies to under valve cover wiring harnesses with one big plug and not 2 plugs on each side. Could be IDM as well. Need to do injector buzz test,
 
#6 ·
Thank You for the help. I did check both connections on the valvle cover gaskets the big one outside and inside, as well as each injector. I ordered an autoenginuity scan tool should have it in a couple days. I plan to do a buzz test then. I have seen (heard) a buzz test done before, but have never done one myself. Is there anything that I should do special. Does anyone know if a buzz test will work if the idm is dead.

Thank You
 
#7 ·
I just got done swapping IDM's out of a running truck. The truck that was not running before still would not run. Just to make sure I put the IDM out of the truck that does not run into the one that does and it still ran. Positive that it is not the IDM know. If anyone has any ideas where to look next it would be greatly appreciated.

Thank You
 
#9 ·
i had the same problem with my 7.3 a little while back had to take the batteries loose and let the computer flash itself it wasnt throwing any codes or anything but if u sprayed either in and held gas pedal down it would try and run but shut right off the bad thing is that the truck was running fine and shut it off didnt drive all weekend then went to go get in and it was doing this never figured out why this happened
 
#12 ·
I was checking out every sensor connection I could think of last night to make sure nothing was unplugged, burnt, etc... When I unpluged the IPR it is loose just spins around freely. I am picking one up today not sure if this will solve the problem completely but it definetly needs replaced. Will let you guys know what happens.

Thanks for your help
 
#13 ·
Well my auto enginuity scanner showed up today. Before I take the IPR i bought out of the box I wanted to see if anyone can help me out on my findings with the scanner. I ran a buzz test, all 8 buzz. They buzz kind of weak except #8 compared to my other 7.3. While cranking the ICP will build to 2000+ psi. I do not think that the IPR is bad.

I had read in another post that the IDM has a constant power and then a remote wire that switches the constant power on. In the IDM connector I can only find one wire hot with key on and none with the key off. Maybe this is normal but if anyone knows for sure i would appreciate the info. While i was investigating this I located the relay under the hood that is responsible for the IDM. I swapped it with the blower motor relay and no change. The thing that is odd to me is that the post that is a ground for the blower motor does not make a ground for the IDM relay so i am wondering if there is a broken wire somewhere? After messing with the relay I rechecked the in the cab fuse for the idm. It checked good, but then i pulled it out and reinstalled. After all of this i decided to try to start. Now the truck acts like it is trying to start. I am atleast getting some black smoke from the exhaust and it sputers while cranking. Before it would crank with no smoke or sputter.

Codes are as follows:
P1280 Injector Control Pressure Sensor Circuit Low
P0472 Exhaust Pressure Sensor Low
P0198 Engine Oil Temperature Sensor High Input
P1119 Manifold Air Temperature Circuit High Input
P1690 Wastegate Solenoid Circuit
P1670 Electronic Feedback Signal Not Detected
P0475 Exhaust Pressure Control Valve
P0603 Internal Control Module Keep Alive Memory (KAM) Error
P1316 Injector Driver Module Codes Detected
P0541 Intake Air Heater A Circuit Low
P0640 Intake Air Heater Control Circuit

The 1670 makes me think that the it may be an IDM or PCM issue

Please help!

Thanks in advance.
 
#16 ·
Man you got codes coming out of every where. You were smart to get the AE it is good software to have. I would start by clearing all codes and see what appear. The truck needs a few things to start, if it is turning over it sounds like the starter circuit is fine. But you may want to throw the batteries from your other truck in this one just to make sure you are getting full power to the starter. IIRC the PCM needs to see 250 rpm's to start. Next it needs oil pressure and fule pressure. After the truck sits you can pull the plug on the top right side of the HPOP and make the oil is up to the proper level. It should be about 1 inch below the top of the HPOP. To test the fuel pressure you can try starting the truck with a drain hose attached to the fuel bowl drain and open the drain. You should have 55-65 psi on the fuel pressure. I am sure the AE will show you fuel pressure and oil pressure as well. I haven't had time to mess with mine much since I bought it. You do have a WTS light correct? If not check fuse #30, if it is blown check the fuel heater in the bottom of the fuel bowl, if it is broken just unplug it at the base of the fuel bowl assembly. Now try starting and let me know what codes are set then. If you have another 7.3 it will help to swap parts back and forth. But let's see what it set's now. I am not online much so you can PM me and I will get a email to my phone.
NCH
 
#17 ·
Well I really can not explain it but the truck started up. I did not do anything other than diagnostics. It started really hard and I had it plugged in for a few hours (coolant temp was 160deg.) I had to keep it running with the pedal for a few minutes it acted like it wanted to die. It finnaly straightened out and run great. With the ae scanner I ran a contribution test #8 fails (balance/ fault). But it does not run rough at all. I ran the KOER test the only codes are air intake heater (i have the ground disconected from removing intake) and exhaust backpressure valve performance (is disconted because connector is broken). So no codes that really affect anything. ICP was fluctating between 480psi at idle and 3000psi when I was getting in to it. I the live data I watched looked fine. I am not an expert but have read enough forums to know a little bit. I let the truck run for 2.5 hours put about 15 miles on it. Has great power and runs smooth. It does make a slight wineing noise when you accelerate not sure if it is just the fan or something else, does not sound like turbo. Shut the truck off let it sit for 10 minuets and restarted fine. I will try it in the morning and let you guys know what happens.

Thank You for your help
 
#19 ·
might wanna do a contribution test as well on your injectors, could even be a broken injector ring! had that problem w/ a 6.0 not startin, had a new hpop on it, etc, it was just a single injector o ring broken
 
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