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TRUCK TURNED OFF WHILE DRIVING/WONT START

1K views 8 replies 5 participants last post by  2002f350ramses7.3 
#1 ·
Hey guys! i just bought my first diesel truck, a 7.3 of course, got for a fair price ($5000). 2002 f350 4x4 crew cab, short bed. Any ways i drove it for like 2 weeks and left it at my uncles house so he can use to go to work. then 2 days later he calls me to tell me that the truck shut off while driving just like that. he tried turning it on a couple of times and it would just crank. he gave up and had it towed.

i have been looking through all powerstrokes forums and found some solutions like changing the CPS or the IPR. I just want to know if you guys have any other advices????

i just want that beast running again!!! haven't enjoyed it much :(
 
#2 ·
Watch the rpm while cranking. I know certain years don't move or something. My 99 will jump to 200 or so. If it doesn't move I believe that is a cps issue. I've been out of the game awhile. Someone who knows more will chime in I'm sure.

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#4 ·
If it is it's a cheap fix.. I got the new dark purple one from international probably 6 years ago for 23 bucks I think

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#5 ·
That sounds like classic cps failure. My old 97 did that driving down the road. It would cut off and a lot of times would restart and I would keep going. It did completely fail on my as well. MY current 02 does not register cranking on the tach so yours wont either. As long as your uncle is describing the fail correctly as in it actually did just " cut off" I would put a new ford/international cps in and be on my way. Its good to always have a spare cps and 10mm 1/4 ratchet in the glove box at all times. Good luck and update after.
 
#6 ·
As 97powerstorker says, you won't see evidence of cranking rpm on the Tach in an '02.

Today, with the availability of inexpensive apps to monitor sensors and retrieve codes, Everybody should be able to check these things for themselves (like cranking rpm & HiPres Oil). Get yourself something if you're going to work on your own truck ;)

But the place to start is going over the Basics...

My usual No Start -


WTS Light? - do you get it when you first roll-on the key? (shows the computer is running)

Do you see cranking rpm on the Tach? Do you have a spare CPS to try?

Is there fuel in the fuel bowl now? Does it refill after cranking? (open the drain level to check) Look above the pass ft tire, you'll see a 3/8" metal tube, against the motor that ends there, it's the drain for the bowl (yellow lever you slide to the side). Get a cup, open the lever, drain the fuel bowl, look at the fuel, close the lever. Then, turn the key to the ON position (should hear the pump) for 15 secs. Drain the fuel bowl again, whaddya got?

Can you hear/feel the pump running (below the dr seat, against the framerail)

Could the fuel gauge be giving a bad reading? (Below 1/4 tank?)

Is it cranking fast enough? - it won't even TRY to start if cranking too slowly.

Is your truck "chipped"? If so, remove it as a Test.

You can unplug the ICP sensor, as a Test, so the PCM sets a default value for the IPR to run on.

Did you check the plug and sheet metal nut going to the IPR? That nut can vibrate off and allow the solenoid going over the valve to slide around. The wires going to the IPR can get brittle, crack, and short together. Make sure the plug & wires look in good shape.
 
#7 ·
hey guys!!! good news it turned out to be tha cps!!!(thank god!). sorry it took me so long to update. long story short swapped the cps crank it a couple of times and it turned on like if it had never happen jajaj

so now when driving home at about 48 -56 mph the truck starts to rattle like if i was going through a bumpy road after the 56 mph the rattle goes away or if i let go of the gas pedal. i stopped at a rest area and look under my truck to see there is oil leaking from the outputshaft . i had it replace before cps went bad. any thoughts???

thanks for all the inputs
 
#8 ·
Are you saying you had oil leaking or you just got underneath to see if there was oil leaking? By output shaft you mean the rear driveshaft?

Sounds like your carrier bearing might be going bad. Get underneath the truck and check by moving the driveshaft up/down if you have excessive play it might be time to replace. What one defines as excessive is a judgement call. Usually it's the rubber portion that the bearing sits in that goes bad, most of the time the bearing is still good. I just replaced mine and did new u-joints while I had it out. Balanced the driveshaft, put it back in and all was good.
 
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