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Steering Issue 03 F250

574 views 3 replies 2 participants last post by  JustinOOO9 
#1 ·
Hello All,

I had the famous wandering down the road in the F250, lived with it for about 25K miles.....finally took it in to get fixed before we put our new tires and rims on....all assumed it was the gear box. Had a new gear box installed and aligned. It drove like a new truck. For about a week. The minute we put the new tires and rims on, it was all over the road again. The tires were MasterCraft tires 265/75/16 Load E, and ford OEM aluminum rims. Took the truck back to the shop, and know one knows what to think. I find it hard to believe changing the tires could change what they just fixed. They say all the usual suspects are fine. They are leaning toward the ball joints, but can not see any evidence of them binding, but they are thinking that's what the issue is. For me its not that simple. After the fix and before the tires, truck had no center dead spot, all was tight. Now, you could hold the wheel straight and the truck would wander in either direction. Once you try to correct, it ping pongs back and forth. Any input would be great as I am just disgusted with the whole situation.
 
#2 ·
I hate to say it but tires could easily be the issue esp with a heavy diesel truck... a E rated sidewall on a quality tires will help with road drifting a lot. I ran cheap tires on my little comutter car but the wonder drove me insane and felt little scary on corners. I tried everything and spent a lot of money on parts just to find out quality tires fixed the issue.

Similarly on my previous 2004 f350 4dr long bed I bought some tires of craigslist and its totally my fault but they were c rated 315/75r16 and they had terrible wonder. Les Schwab tried quoting me some outrageous number on upper/lower ball joints, u joints, steering compo nets and I left politely steaming on the inside. I found some used E rated tires and I could let go of my steering wheel and the truck would drive straight as a 7k lb arrow could on the highway.

I don't feel the mastercaft tires are the cheapest but there is a difference in tires like bfgoodrich, procomp, and toyo for sure,


how old are the tires, and what air pressure do you have them at?
 
#3 ·
Tires are brand new....funny part is, the old tires were mastercraft as well, just a more agressive tread. The old were down to bare minimum hence the new. I run 80psi in front and 65-70 in the rear.. used to run 80 in the rear, but guy who did the work told us to run less in rear. We were wearing out the rear 2-3 times faster than the front... have been running that pressure for about 6 years not with no issues. I should find out what the sidewall rating is on these tires. I suspect tread is 10 ply, but sidewall may only be 6-8
 
#4 ·
you shouldn't have to run 80psi in the rear unless your towing... I run 65psi rear and 68 psi in front for my 99 over 7k miles looks good. I rotate every 10k now versus traditional 5k. but if your tires are stock size follow the pressure on the door jam sticker. its meant to be a soft ride and cause as much as can be had even wear. I run 70psi in my rear when I tow but I don't tow heavy stuff anymore either just a little 5-8k here and there.

but check your tires seriously I knew cheap tires were worse but the wander and cornering were terrible on my truck until I found some quality brand e rated tires.
 
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