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Transmission temp

13K views 30 replies 10 participants last post by  five0merc 
#1 ·
My fluid seems good, doesn't smell burnt and has a nice red color. But for some reason, my temp will read on average 190-205° with normal city driving. On long hills, I usually have to pull over and let it cool because it starts flashing a warning at me (I think 225°?). I know I wasn't to upgrade my cooler too a 6.0 cooler, but this seems like something basic is wrong.
 
#2 ·
How are you getting your tranny temps? Digital monitor? and it gets that hot when you are empty or towing?

For the most part 220-230 is safe for up to 15 mins. anything under 220 is acceptable. But the lower the better.
 
#3 ·
First things first.. How are you getting the temperature reading? Where do you have your transmission temperature probe tapped into? Also, do you have any sort of chip?

Let me know, I am happy to try and help you out here.

- Bryant
 
#4 ·
I get info via my Edge Evo tuner. Currently running Stage 3. I'll back out of to Stage 2 or 1 if needed, but it seems strange that the system couldn't handle it. I don't know where my sensor is located, I didn't install it. All this is unloaded, just running errands around town. I have a 6" lift and 315/75R16's, so nothing too wild. I read that normal operating temperature was 150-170°.
 
#5 ·
Yeah, I run within that temperature range on my 7.3 so something is definitely up. If you have the time, try to trace the wire that is sending you your transmission temp. If it is a probe, it is possible that the probe is damaged and is giving you an incorrect reading, or that the wire is damaged and is somehow messing things up.

I have individual gauges so I don't know much about how the edge works. Do you know if there is an actual probe that taps into the transmission to give you the temperature, or is it possibly connected to the PCM to give you a reading (I'm not 100% sure if you can connect it to the PCM)?

- Bryant
 
#6 ·
Just a heads up Edge tuners are one of the worst on these transmissions so I would remove the tune immediately,they don't adjust anything in your trans they just add more fuel and more air which is a recipe for disaster on your trans.Your temps are being read through your PCM which is only about 10-15° higher than if you had a mechanical gauge tapped into your test port.your pump could be weak in your trans or line flow could be blocked slightly a new trans cooler would help you tremendously and a custom VB would help a lot also.but I know your Edge tuner isn't doing you any favors
 
#7 ·
I knew they weren't the best, but I didn't know they neglected the transmission. That's disappointing. I can still use it to monitor things though until I get actual gauges, right?
 
#8 ·
Yes if you can "turn off" the tuning portion then ya I would and use it for gauges.
 
#9 ·
I've dialed the tune down to Stage I, but not really any difference in the temps. This afternoon it hit 211° taking my daughter to gymnastics. Outside temp says 100°.
 
#11 ·
My old roommates e4od ran 190s driving daily even after rebuilding drove him crazy. After the tru cool kit 25+ degrees cooler faulting driving even on a 102 summer day lol. Trust me it's the very first mod I will be doing...


Install the tru cool kit from diesel site or 6.0 trans cooler.

Just drain pan and bring 8 or so for pan n filter and a couple of quarts for the cooler change.

Only use dexmerc or Mercon III or dextron III unless your trans has been completely rebuilt new deals and all
 
#14 ·
I was actually just reading about this little part. Is there a way to test it? Or is it just a replace it and see if it fixes it type of thing?
 
#13 ·
When I got my truck the transmission had been replaced by the previous owner. The shop that did the install left the original cooler. Then routed into a new small aftermarket cooler located in front of the radiator. From the new cooler it went into the OE inline transmission filter. Yes the shop that did the transmission install sucked! The line on the front of the transmission is the outlet. The one towards the back is the inlet(cool). Trace out the lines with your hands. The temperature should gradually get colder as the fluid comes back to the transmission. You will notice a small tube connecting both lines together. This is the bypass valve. If there is a restriction it will allow the fluid back into the transmission without cooling the fluid.
 
#16 ·
I was out driving yesterday with a load of oak in the bed and the highest I saw was 170. And that was going to Concord and back in the traffic on I80 around 3 in the afternoon. I just put a 6.0 trans cooler in a couple weeks ago. Before it would be up in the 190's
 
#17 ·
I've been trying to find a 6.0 cooler on craigslist, but everyone parting out their trucks either is keeping the trans (and cooler) or it's already gone. I think I might order the bypass delete kit from Sinister Diesel too. Only $20 and I don't have to worry about it sticking again.
 
#18 ·
Don't waste unnecessary money on the 6.0 trans cooler. It's very tight and hard to fit in there and the tru cool kit does just as good a job. Like $159 with the install kit, hoses, clamps everything.

I've seen the results in person. The 6.0 cooler is nice, but if there is a proven product for less that is just as high quality why waste $499 on a 6.0 cooler then have to buy hoses, fittings, clamps

Just wanna help you save your transmission and some money ;)
 
#24 ·
I was the victim of an open bypass valve that caused my tranny to heat up last year, so I can tell you that is a very likely problem that you should look into FIRST. Do that first, because you don't want to spend a couple hundred dollars on a 6.0 transmission cooler, just to find out that doesn't solve your problem and you have a bigger issue...now you probably sent debris into your brand-new expensive cooler. And I know Ford says the 4R100 can operate over 200° with no issues, but mine barely gets over 160 in the hot Florida summers so I'd say you definitely have an issue.
 
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#26 ·
I just blew out my lines and cooler with my compressor. It may have been partially plugged since the flow was initially choppy. But after that initial flush, fluid pushed through just fine. I'll have to see what the temp runs up to. But it might be a few days until I can get it fully warmed up.
 
#27 ·
I did read one post about the bypass valve, that it is more for pressure than temperature. Instead of using it to warm up the trans, its to allow fluid to flow in case of a blockage in the cooler. That way your trans doesn't burn up. That does make sense I guess. If the valve is a sort of ball check valve, that would be pressure, not temperature. Right?
 
#28 ·
UPDATE: I replaced my bypass and filled it with fresh fluid. We went in a long roundtrip up to Oregon and down the coast. Cruising up and down the mountains in 70° weather with no issues. Temps around 154 if I remember right. But if I am having to go slowly or in stop and go traffic (especially in summer 90-100°+) I can readily get 190-200°+ trans temps. I noticed my condenser is pretty beat up. Could that cause the high temps from restricted air flow?
 

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#29 ·
I would look into a 6.0 cooler. I only see 150-160's for trans temp. Every now and then I hit 173 even in this heat we have been having. In town and on the hi way.
 
#30 ·
Here is a better picture of the lower part of my condenser, pretty banged up. I think the trans cooler is right behind this part. A bigger cooler is definitely on my list, but I don't suppose this is doing the stock one any favors.
 

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#31 ·
Yea that's your A/C cooler. Behind that is your trans cooler. I know my stock one was pretty dirty so if you can see back in there at the trans cooler and maybe see if you can clean it to help out until you get a new cooler.
 
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