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Help p1316 cranks no start
I have an 01 powerstoke f350 with about 135,000 miles on it. First of all I started getting the morning miss that produced the p1316 code. Like alot of posts my truck would run fine after it warmed up. I just was to busy and didnt't get around to pull the valve covers. Then after of about two weeks, it just died and would not start. It still produced the p1316 code only. I pulled the valve covers and discovered the passenger uvc to be loose. I just plugged it back in basically to see if this would help rather than purchasing a new a new uvc (this was at the recommendation of local Ford delearship diesel tech, he said it's common to lose an entire bank due to the disconnection). My CEL went off and i cleared the code. My problem is all it does is turn over and wont start. Batteries are good and have a good charge. Voltage is at 12 and drops to 10 when cranking. No codes indicated.
Im thinking IDM or injector solenoid next?? Thank for any help that may be offered. |
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get it on a data monitor and see what your getting from cmp, as well as injector duty cycle.
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Does your RPM gauge read anything while cranking?
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I dont remember, i will check. I know the oil pressure will go up. still no codes. Im trying to locate a data monitor. Thanks for help
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Yes the tach does move while cranking.
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That rules out the CPS then.
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try a small shot of ether this will eliminate a few possibilities. Had the same problem and it proved to be the sylenoid for the glow plugs. usually if ether does crank it it has something to do with the glow plugs but there are always many possibilities.
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ok sounds good, i was going to try that. How do you check the injector solenoid?
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You will need a scanner capable of doing a buzz test.
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Ok today i went and talked to my neighbor, he is an older guy who recently retired and sold his diesel shop after 30 years. He told me that he didn't feel the p1316 code or uvch was associated with my truck just dying while going down the road(ford tech said it can if entire plug is backed out, losing entire bank, it was). He said typically it will run bad but not die?? Actually he got me so confused explaining that the 7.3 has so much electrically that could go wrong, wiring harnesses etc. What I found interesting was, that he said even though my RPM gauge would move while cranking the engine over doesn't necessarily mean the CPS is good? He said almost always the CPS was swapped out and often that was the problem. He also said It didn't matter if the CPS had 5,000 miles on it or 150,000 miles on it, he would always check it. Basically it's the default troubleshooting for the 7.3. He also recommended not spraying starting fluid or wd40 into the intake. In the end he basically told me to try the CPS and for the $29 I would at the very least have a back up in the glove box if that wasnt the problem.
Also to have it buzzed tested, which could take an hour or several hours trying to isolate the problem. Additionally, I went to the new owner and spoke to him as well, he didn't think the CPS was bad, but thought the IDM, ICP or IPR was bad. Need to do a buzz test but he also said it could be an hour or several hours to find problerm. He also didnt recommend spraying starting fluid into intake. Im more confused than ever now. I know that it is getting fuel to the bowl, and voltage is good. Last edited by fateracing; 09-23-2009 at 11:18 AM. |
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