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Fuel sending Unit Common Sense Repair

64K views 74 replies 23 participants last post by  torqd 
#1 ·
The fuel sending unit for these trucks are just stupid expensive so I thought I'd start this thread and see what comes of it.

First of all my local stealership wants 500+$s for the sending unit.
All I need is a new fuel pickup foot and the sending switch.

Side note: HEY FORD!!! People who drive these trucks likely spent more on them new than most any vehicle on the lot. We would appreciate a fair shake when it comes to repairs. Stop insisting we spend 500$ for the whole unit when a complete rebuild kit should be available for less than two hundred. Thanks for nothing. Suthern1

The pickup foot is a no brainer since they cost roughly 40$ and are readily available. But, the switch is whole other monster.

I have found some switches PS175 PS176 MC PNs at around 179$s but to me that's still way to much for a 10$ piece of plastic with a thin strip of metal which is all the switch is. That's what happened to mine. The small thin metal tab that makes contact across the scale corroded and fell off.

So knowing that:
1. All post late 80s Fords cars trucks vans and etc are 15-160 ohm switches.
and
2. The height placement of the switch and float arm swing are the only contributors to proper function.

I am going to try this.

I found a switch PN PS233 on Amazon for 20$. Regular price is 149$s so WOW what a discount. From the pictures it appears to be the same plastic housing with the clips in the proper location to attach to the mount on the tube. So its the same switch. The float arm is different but there is nothing wrong with the float arm I have so why not just swap them out. I removed the old float arm with a small flathead easily.

Presumably it is the correct ohm range 15-160 which is why I did not go with aftermarket 10-180 ohm switch. As I see it the extended ranges only effect would be that the gauge would read empty at 15 ohms while the float arm switch (tank)would be empty at 10 ohms leaving you running on E for longer. Not a bad thing but I prefer the accuracy.

Parts arrive tomorrow. Ill update after install.

Because I sometimes miss the obvious any comments or experiences to the contrary are welcome.
 
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#3 ·
Keep us posted. I know a few people have tried but haven't found the one yet.
 
#4 ·
Good info, mine is working okay but a few weeks ago when my son had my truck he said the fuel gauge was acting funny. It's never done anything weird when I'm driving but you know has soon as I get done posting this the dam thing will blow up:surprise:
 
#6 · (Edited)
See the picture below.
1. What I ordered
2. What I received
3. What I ordered today and will be here Friday

Amazon does it again. Instead of Motorcraft PN PS233 I received Standard Automotive PN PS233. Maybe one day Ill order a 5$ part and get a new Stereo System with the same PN...Oh Yea!!

Anyway the new part I ordered costs twice as much at 40$ but I noticed that the float arm has the same bends at the switch as mine. While I hadn't noticed before that on the first one the switch seems to be facing the opposite direction.
 

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#7 ·
Houston we have No Problems. We are go!!

That's a fix men.
See the pictures below and note that the scale is exactly the same unit Fit Form and Function.

I received the new unit, swapped float swing arms, pulled the plastic piece of the new metal and clipped it directly on to the old piece soldered to the tube. I made new wire connections and installed. All at the astonishing price of $40.00 U.S.

Announcing Suthern1 Fuel sending unit repair 199.99 .... lol

The part # is Motorcraft PS90 or there is a W number also Ill find again and post later.
It is said to fit a 2001 Lincoln continental.

And just FYI a metal coat hanger is the exact diameter as the float rod if needed. (don't use the white painted ones)
 

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#13 ·
GOOD TEAM WORK GUY'S way to go
 
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#14 ·
I know this is a while ago, but, is it still working good? And, mine hardly ever leaves full. I've just made it a habit to fuel up between 300/325 miles. Once in a while it will drop to 3/4, but for the most part stays on the full mark all the time. Anybody have that problem and possible fix? 99 350 CCLB 4x4 Dually.
 
#16 ·
Glad it's still working good! I tried the link to where you got your switch, took me right to it but it is no longer available!! Tried Sunrise Ford too. They can't/won't sell just the switch, you have to buy the whole sending unit-fuel pickup! About the best I have come up with, is to buy the sending unit-fuel pump for a 01 Lincoln Cont. for $175!! Think I'll hold out for a while. Was getting ready to do Hutch/Harpoon mods and wanted to drop tank once, but.......
 
#18 ·
Look back at the PS number I think it was PS-90? But remember it does not have to be specific to an 01' Lincoln either.

EVERY FORD uses the same Ohm range scale so you could possibly use a 96 Ford Fiesta... What your looking for is the scale that will clip in place over the existing mount on your fuel pump.

Also important is the same angle that the float arm bends at the scale. You can use your old (longer) float arm with the new scale.

Dealers don't want to sell non original parts for your vehicle so ask for PART NUMBER XXXX rather than a sending unit for a XXXXX. Internet will always be cheaper than dealer.
 
#19 ·
That was the issue, that I didn't specify. I gave the referenced part number, both of them, and they said that part is no longer available. I don't think I even told them what I was working on, just what it was I wanted. When I went to the link you provided, it asked for a vehicle to verify fitment, and I put in 01 Lincoln Cont., and it verified that was correct, but no longer available. May have to try my local dealer and see what they say.
 
#21 ·
Here are two possible fits the ad even lists some 7.3 as "fits" I took the plastic housing off the metal base provided and clipped it over the metal base tack welded to the pump tube and used my old float arm. In any case these are large detailed pictures you can visually compare with yours. And only 22$. Its on ebay but you can probly find elsewhere also

Well I cant post a complete link for "Fuel Pump Sending Unit Gas Gauge Level Sensor Direct Fit for Ford Mercury New" Manufacturer Part Number:
AM-735724217
 
#22 ·
Thank you for doing the leg work and using your head. I remembered seeing this awhile back thankfully, my truck left me in the middle of an intersection when it went from 1/4 tank-to Fuel light- to empty in 7 minutes.

I got a 4 mile weighted run in that night in 16 degree weather after having a hip surgery 5 months ago. Anyhow, I've ordered the part, and will be doing the Hutch and Harpoon mod while I'm in there.
Thank you again, and happy new year. This saved me a lot of money.
 
#23 ·
As a service to anyone who comes across this in the future the part number listed above Fuel Pump Sending Unit Gas Gauge Level Sensor Direct Fit for Ford Mercury New" Manufacturer Part Number: AM-735724217 is incorrect for our application.

The bends in the float arm cause the arm on the potentiometer to drop to the bottom which sends the "full" voltage to the dash. This particular switch won't clip onto the stock sender mount of a 2000 7.3. I switched boards from one to the other as a last resort since I had my bed off, after install the voltage signal is inverted. Bone dry it will show full. If I had been paying closer attention to lead location I would have noticed before install.
 

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#25 ·
Sorry about reviving this thread.

I just got a sticker heart attack for the replacement sending unit for my 2002 F350. Maybe I am not looking in the correct location, but the PS90 or PS 233 are not coming up as valid PN's.

Any updated would be helpful.

Thanks,

NT
Those are Rock Auto numbers
the one in the previous post that the guy says don't work, -- is fine, the OP mentions you need to change the float arm to your old one
the one for a Crown Vic should work also PS162 2W1Z9275AB
Def test the gauge action and measure the float to tank distance before final install
You are only using the variable resistor from this part
 
#30 · (Edited)
Bump, I am also an idiot that would like to know how to save a few hundred bucks. Hybrocarbons, is there anyway to mount differently? The box or the arm?
Hydro, could you explain any further how you know the previous numbers are correct? which ones specifically?
I think W0133-1861503-MTR is the correct part. I found one on carID and gonna order it now. I'll report back.

edit: I have a 6.0, looks similar so hopefully this fixes it.

I think they sent me the wrong ****. Looks like I gotta order again.
 
#31 ·
As long as the ohms are correct, then it should work
you may need to bend the float wire or use the old one
I suggest connecting the hacked unit and be sure the gauge works to the extremes
also measure the upper and lower distance in the tank
about 15 ohms empty and 170 full
 
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