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Passenger side window stuck down
I've looked for a few wiring diagrams for the interior, specifically the door and window motor, but no dice. I have been able to get the window down and up once, but took it all the way down and it won't come back up. Both the driver and passenger switches fail to move the window.
I believe the motor is new or at least has been tested. When I push the switch down to lower it more (which it won't because it's bottomed out), I feel a relay or something click near the window motor. My guess is that there is a sensor suck that makes it think the window is all the way up? The switch and everything seems to be getting power correctly so I'm curious to know if such switch/sensor exists (and where) that would indicate the window is all the way up or down. The rest of the week looks clear of rain so I'm good from that stand point, but if anyone could point me to interior diagrams that would be pretty helpful. I'm not exactly sure which wires should be getting what voltage reading. Thanks! |
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Sounds like what mine did before I replaced the motor. It would slow way down when going up, would go down fine, but the last few days before replacement, it would stay down. Had to slam the door while holding the up button a few times before it would actually come up. Power window motor & regulator at the stealership was around $90. Was easy to replace & has worked great ever since.
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Hmm. If I recall correctly the motor has been replaced. It looks new and is different from the other motor as the wiring does not match the colors it should be. I just reversed the wires so when I push down on the switch it went up. I am leaning toward the switch being bad (took it completely apart and can't see anything wrong/burnt). However, I would assuming that if the passenger's switch is bad, I would at least be able to put it down/up from the driver's side, but that one didn't work either unless a bad passenger switch caused the driver's side not to work either and vice versa. That's why I've been searching for a wiring diagram to help clear things up.
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Figures, it was the switch. I guess whichever part of it is bad affects the connectivity of both the driver and passenger side. I swapped it with the lock switch for now since the windows are used more than the power locks and it works perfectly fine.
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