Electric window issues

[sportsdad]

I'm new here and have already found a wealth of information to help me out. I recently reclaimed my 2000 F-250 SC LB from my son. He's been in it for a few years and I've been fixin stuff for days now. I just finished the door lock actuators. Did both and they work great. While the door panels are torn apart, I decided to check the pass window probem. Well, I'm stumped. Have checked both switches, the relay and both motors. All appear to be functional, but I can only get the pass window to go up. NO DOWN. There is no doubt something I've missed. Any ideas????? HELP

[bigb56]

Did you check for a broken wire inside the door jamb boot? They normally break there from the back & forth movement

[97 golden stroker]

Did you check the driver switch also?

[sportsdad]

Thanks for the input guys. I have checked the driver side (for pass) switch. I believe it's good. I have good volts going out of the drivers side switch, but nothing coming into the pass side. Sounds like the door jam boot is a good place to start looking. It's supposed to be 104 today, but I could stand to loose some weight.

[ruger#1]

Take the electric motor out and clean the brushes. My drivers side was doing the same thing, cleaned it and it works fine.

[sportsdad]

Ruger #1 (nice gun), it's not a motor problem. It's a supply problem. No electric on the down side. First thing I checked was the motor.

I did find that I have some sort of short in the driver side wire loom. Started wiggling and lots of lights and buzzers started dancing. My bet is that Bigb56 is correct. Damn! Now how to get at that loom??????

[bigb56]

Originally Posted by sportsdad

Ruger #1 (nice gun), it's not a motor problem. It's a supply problem. No electric on the down side. First thing I checked was the motor.

I did find that I have some sort of short in the driver side wire loom. Started wiggling and lots of lights and buzzers started dancing. My bet is that Bigb56 is correct. Damn! Now how to get at that loom??????

I haven't looked at the Ford yet, but I have had to so it on my Grand Cherokee and my Mercedes 300. On the Jeep it was the right rear window, but the broken wire was in the drivers door jam harness. the dealer wanted $260 or something JUST FOR THE PART. So I took it out and onto the workbench. I had to solder in a piece to make it a bit longer. I did it to several that were starting to break. If you just try to put the original wire(s) back together they will just pull apart again, too tight, so splice in a bit more and shrink wrap the splice. The Jeep door harness unplugs, but it is still a royal pain to get to and put back. It is held in by bolts in the centers.

On the Mercedes I had to pull the door panel, then unhook everything and pull it all out. I replaced about a foot with a new bundle I made up, and put it inside a piece of fuel line before threading it back thru the boot.

Let us know how the Ford comes apart, I'm sure we will all be there some day. Pics would be nice!

[dalton1]

theres a broken wire between the drivers switch and the door jam, my truck did the same thing, i just spliced in a new wire.

[sportsdad]

Thanks for the help guys, but where's my easy little magic fix. I think I can isolate the offending wire with a multimeter, but that's the easy part. Oh well, I really want my window back. I'll let you know how it goes.

[sportsdad]

Well, that's done. Not too bad a job. Sorry, NO PICs. My digi cam is off at school with my daughter. It wasn't that interesting anyway. Found two broken wires, pass window and driver door latch sensor. Added a little piece to both, soldered and shrink sealed both and rewrapped loom in tape. Thanks for the input guys. Right on call Dalton1.