What psi for boost fooler? - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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post #1 of 8 Old 07-21-2014, 08:23 AM Thread Starter
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What psi for boost fooler?

What psi of boost would I need a boost fooler?
I am seeing 32# at wot. I also keep blowing off the red vacuum line and super glued it in place.

02 F-250 ccsb 7.3 auto, 8" fabtech, 37" toyo, 4.30, 4" straight pipe, AFE intake, hydra chip, riff raff wheel, tugger kit and powerstruck tunes.
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post #2 of 8 Old 07-21-2014, 08:59 AM
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What psi for boost fooler?

You don't need a boost fooler with your tunes( if your running php). All the boost fooler does is limit pressure seen by the MAP so the PCM does not defuel. The php tunes don't defuel but they do set a soft code for over boost at 28.

01 f-250, Standard
Rev tech 4" lift,35" Mickey Thompsons MTZ
KC diy 66 stage 2, Full force 160/100 and custom tunes from PHP
Banks inner cooler and full 4" exhaust, Diy S&B intake
Diy quad feed, Hydra, Isspro boost, pyro, and fuel pressure
3/0 battery cables with military style terminals
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post #3 of 8 Old 07-21-2014, 10:17 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by sbluke55 View Post
You don't need a boost fooler with your tunes( if your running php). All the boost fooler does is limit pressure seen by the MAP so the PCM does not defuel. The php tunes don't defuel but they do set a soft code for over boost at 28.
That must be the code I'm getting. It was fine till I ran it hard and the light came on.
If I do the diode boost fooler will it keep the light off?

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post #4 of 8 Old 07-21-2014, 10:40 AM
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It will but tuners use the map reading to get accurate tuning at high boost levels. Using it would only hinder your performance. I get the light every once in a while and I just cycle the key real quick and it goes off.

01 f-250, Standard
Rev tech 4" lift,35" Mickey Thompsons MTZ
KC diy 66 stage 2, Full force 160/100 and custom tunes from PHP
Banks inner cooler and full 4" exhaust, Diy S&B intake
Diy quad feed, Hydra, Isspro boost, pyro, and fuel pressure
3/0 battery cables with military style terminals
[/LEFT]
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post #5 of 8 Old 07-21-2014, 02:36 PM Thread Starter
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Ok good to know. I'll cycle the key. The wife is pissed cause the lights on in her truck again. Last time it was from the ebpv delete.

02 F-250 ccsb 7.3 auto, 8" fabtech, 37" toyo, 4.30, 4" straight pipe, AFE intake, hydra chip, riff raff wheel, tugger kit and powerstruck tunes.
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post #6 of 8 Old 07-21-2014, 04:44 PM
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When i "overboost" and get a CEL, it goes away after several minutes, and throws no codes. do your guys not do that? The PO put a boost fooler on mine as well, but i dont think i need it... Im not sure what its accomplishing haha

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post #7 of 8 Old 07-21-2014, 04:47 PM
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Mine does the same. If your light stays on after you cycle the key it may be another problem. Check your codes

01 f-250, Standard
Rev tech 4" lift,35" Mickey Thompsons MTZ
KC diy 66 stage 2, Full force 160/100 and custom tunes from PHP
Banks inner cooler and full 4" exhaust, Diy S&B intake
Diy quad feed, Hydra, Isspro boost, pyro, and fuel pressure
3/0 battery cables with military style terminals
[/LEFT]
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post #8 of 8 Old 07-21-2014, 09:56 PM
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The diode fooler works great. A regulator boost fooler will have that same limitations as the diode as far as the tuner using the map readings.

I'm might be a little bit crazy, but I just can't stand seeing the light come on every time I get into the throttle.

PIS 175/80's, Van Turbo with EBPV, BD Billet Wheel
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Holley fuel pump, in tank mods, crappy riding leveling kit, DP-F6, 5 Gauges+Edge CS in dash, CB radio in Dash, over 100 goofy little mods
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I love finally having my truck back... that 7.3 dog that I was driving was just not cutting it.
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