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post #1 of 17 Old 06-12-2014, 08:23 AM Thread Starter
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Opinions on Luk Clutches?

My local mechanic is going to install a new clutch kit in my 7.3 and quoted me at 1100 for the stock kit. I asked him to upgrade the clutch while he was in there and the guy quoted me 1450 for the upgraded Luk kit and said the clutch kit cost 900$ so simple math was saying his labor is 550$. He also said he will resurface the flywheel.
My issue is that the MOST expensive Luk clutch i can find INCLUDES a new flywheel and the cost is under 500.... if he is going to resurface the flywheel then he wont need the kit with the part and that one is around 300.

Am i getting swindled? or is there a Luk kit out there thats worth 900 and are the Luk clutches any good? he guaranteed it will handle 500 HP.

I wanted the 500hp Valair kit for 640$ but he wont install customer parts and nor will any other shop in town.

E1999 7.3 PS 6 Speed,TS 6 position chip. K&N CAI, 4" straightpipe, Auto Meter Elite gauges.
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post #2 of 17 Old 06-12-2014, 08:42 AM
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if he wont install a part you want somebody should. i wouldnt settle.
my friend just bought a whole clutch kit with flywheel for 500 cant remember the brand. then he took it to a shop and they charged him 300 for install.
the shops just marking it up so they can make more money, thats pretty normal.

you dont have any buddies who will help you do it?

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post #3 of 17 Old 06-13-2014, 11:12 AM
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I'm getting a South Bend 1944-60K clutch/flywheel kit when money allows and that's rated for 400hp and 750 ft lbs and it's about $850 and the cheapest I've been quoted is $600 from Ford (couldn't believe they were the cheapest) for labor. While I'm in there I'm also going to install a Midwest Short Throw Shift kit for $250 so I won't have to touch the trans for a long time

E99 F250 XLT SuperCab 4x4 3.73 gears, 213k and climbing, ZF6 trans w/ 1944-60K SB Clutch/Flywheel, 6637 filter, muffler/cat delete w/ 5 inch tip, PHP Hydra, 4 gauge pod(EGT, EOT, FUEL PSI, BOOST), 12000 lb Warn Winch, 07 headlights/grill, 6k HID kit, Bushwhacker pocket style fender flares, Pioneer 7" touchscreen, 2.5 inch leveling kit with 315/75/16 General AT2s on stock 16 bullets, HPX

Next up: Rebuild Kit and Billet Wheel, Fixing E-brake so I can park on hills!
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post #4 of 17 Old 06-13-2014, 11:37 AM
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Bought my South Bend for $700 from a buddy who is a Shop owner and gets better pricing. I would try to find someone like that cause he saved me $150 on just the clutch. This was a kit that came with everything including the flywheel rated to 450 HP.

I borrowed a sh*tty tranny jack and it took me 6 beers to finish it.

I snapped my Clutch fork last Monday. Dropped the tranny on tuesday in an hour using the same sh*tty tranny jack and all hand tools. I do not own air tools or a lift which would turn this into a 30 min job. Picked up a new fork from dealer and installed in 1.5 hours on Wednesday.

This is seriously a very very easy job. The hardest part for me was stabbing the tranny back in due to the crappy tranny jack. I had 3 ratchet straps on it just to help it stay still on the jack.


Best part of this whole bit of fun was borrowing my dads rig. Man was it a nice ride!


2000 F-250 XCLB 4x4 6 Speed, PIS 175/80's, ARP's, 910's, CNC Fuel Lines, 6637 Intake, GTP38R WW2, 4" turbo back, Hydra with Powerstruck and PHP tunes. International Up-pipes, ISSPRO Boost, EGT, HPOP and Fuel Pressure gauges. SB Clutch. MB Diesel HPOP.

Future Parts: Trac bars
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post #5 of 17 Old 06-13-2014, 12:03 PM
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Would you say you have to have a transmission jack because I don't and plan on doing this with the help of some mechanics at work

E99 F250 XLT SuperCab 4x4 3.73 gears, 213k and climbing, ZF6 trans w/ 1944-60K SB Clutch/Flywheel, 6637 filter, muffler/cat delete w/ 5 inch tip, PHP Hydra, 4 gauge pod(EGT, EOT, FUEL PSI, BOOST), 12000 lb Warn Winch, 07 headlights/grill, 6k HID kit, Bushwhacker pocket style fender flares, Pioneer 7" touchscreen, 2.5 inch leveling kit with 315/75/16 General AT2s on stock 16 bullets, HPX

Next up: Rebuild Kit and Billet Wheel, Fixing E-brake so I can park on hills!
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post #6 of 17 Old 06-16-2014, 06:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tow51Stang View Post
Would you say you have to have a transmission jack because I don't and plan on doing this with the help of some mechanics at work
Could probably get away with a couple floor jacks but you will want to be careful, with the T-case still attached it pulls hard to the driver side and trys to roll on you.
If you pull the T-case a couple guys might be able to bench press it in but just be mindful that it weighs about 280 lbs alone. Close to 400 with T-case.

2000 F-250 XCLB 4x4 6 Speed, PIS 175/80's, ARP's, 910's, CNC Fuel Lines, 6637 Intake, GTP38R WW2, 4" turbo back, Hydra with Powerstruck and PHP tunes. International Up-pipes, ISSPRO Boost, EGT, HPOP and Fuel Pressure gauges. SB Clutch. MB Diesel HPOP.

Future Parts: Trac bars
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post #7 of 17 Old 06-16-2014, 08:38 AM
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Which route would you go then? I've got 3 or 4 floor jacks and ratchet straps from my winch to use. Will I have to replace fluid in trans and the TC when I do this? thanks!

E99 F250 XLT SuperCab 4x4 3.73 gears, 213k and climbing, ZF6 trans w/ 1944-60K SB Clutch/Flywheel, 6637 filter, muffler/cat delete w/ 5 inch tip, PHP Hydra, 4 gauge pod(EGT, EOT, FUEL PSI, BOOST), 12000 lb Warn Winch, 07 headlights/grill, 6k HID kit, Bushwhacker pocket style fender flares, Pioneer 7" touchscreen, 2.5 inch leveling kit with 315/75/16 General AT2s on stock 16 bullets, HPX

Next up: Rebuild Kit and Billet Wheel, Fixing E-brake so I can park on hills!
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post #8 of 17 Old 06-16-2014, 09:17 AM
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I would drain both the tc and tranny. They most likely needs changed anyway. Personally I would separate the two. It makes lining up everything much easier and only takes a few minutes. Another trick is to hold the clutch alignment tool up a little while tightening down the pressure plate. When tight make sure the tools slides in and out freely with binding. Remember always resurface the flywheel before reuse.

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post #9 of 17 Old 06-16-2014, 10:13 AM
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I just changed the trans fluid about 5k ago but I went with Mobil 1 synthetic and heard it isn't the best and I have some gear rollover coming out of first under 1k rpms. I'll separate them when I do it. I'm also ordering a South bend Clutch/Flywhel kit and a new clutch fork and a Midwest short throw shifter so I don't have to do this job again anytime soon

E99 F250 XLT SuperCab 4x4 3.73 gears, 213k and climbing, ZF6 trans w/ 1944-60K SB Clutch/Flywheel, 6637 filter, muffler/cat delete w/ 5 inch tip, PHP Hydra, 4 gauge pod(EGT, EOT, FUEL PSI, BOOST), 12000 lb Warn Winch, 07 headlights/grill, 6k HID kit, Bushwhacker pocket style fender flares, Pioneer 7" touchscreen, 2.5 inch leveling kit with 315/75/16 General AT2s on stock 16 bullets, HPX

Next up: Rebuild Kit and Billet Wheel, Fixing E-brake so I can park on hills!
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post #10 of 17 Old 06-16-2014, 11:38 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tow51Stang View Post
Which route would you go then? I've got 3 or 4 floor jacks and ratchet straps from my winch to use. Will I have to replace fluid in trans and the TC when I do this? thanks!
If i had free access to a tranny jack like i do then i would do that. But im cheap so i would use floor jacks if it all i had. If you pay attention and go slow you should be fine. Get an extra set of eyes and hands under there if you can.

I have not separated the tranny from the T-case so i dont know if you would loose fluid by doing that but i have not lost any fluid pulling my tranny out. Maybe a couple drips from the cooler lines but that's it. Just dont rotate it on its side where the ports are for the cooler lines.

2000 F-250 XCLB 4x4 6 Speed, PIS 175/80's, ARP's, 910's, CNC Fuel Lines, 6637 Intake, GTP38R WW2, 4" turbo back, Hydra with Powerstruck and PHP tunes. International Up-pipes, ISSPRO Boost, EGT, HPOP and Fuel Pressure gauges. SB Clutch. MB Diesel HPOP.

Future Parts: Trac bars
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