Turbo for mostly stock truck - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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post #1 of 22 Old 04-19-2014, 12:49 AM Thread Starter
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Turbo for mostly stock truck

I have a 2000 F350 2WD with 90,000 miles. I have an aFe Stage II intake and 4" MBRP exhaust that I added to lower my EGT's. The truck is used exclusively to haul a large in-the-bed camper weighing about 5,000 lbs.

I am going to purchase a PHP Hydra Chip and tunes. I'm having bad turbo surge problems since the intake and exhaust, or at least I'm able to hear it since the intake and exhaust. My first thought was to have the turbo rebuilt with a Wicked Wheel II and a larger housing, but for the money that I spend on that, I'm already at least 1/2 way to a new turbo. So I'm thinking that instead I'll just move up to a 38R or BD Turbo Thruster II. I know there won't be much impact today, but if I ever have to replace my injectors I'll probably do a mild step up and the new turbo will be better suited.

I'm an old guy and I don't have any business working on the truck engine so all work is done by a good shop. I use the truck and camper often at altitudes from 0-10,0000 feet. I'm a conservative driver and usually just put it in cruise @ 62. I'd like the extra power from the chip for mountain passes or to pass slower moving traffic. Since I already have the intake and exhaust, I think the chip is a no brainer.

What turbo would you recommend for my situation?
38R? BD Turbo-Thruster II? Brute 66? Ebay: Super 100 rebuilt turbo?

Thanks in advance!

00 F350 Lariat CC, DRW, 2wd, 7.3 , Auto, Tru-Cool MAX tCooler, Delrale Deep Cooling Pan, JW Valve Body, aFe Stage II Intake, aFe 4” Turbo Back, Pillar Mount Gshift Gauges (Pyro, Boost, Trans), GTP38R, Barder Billet Wheel, Bellowed Pipes, EBPV pedestal, PHP Hydra, Riff Raff FRX, HPX, EBP, Swamps HV/HF IDM, Dieselsite Max AC. 2014 Lance 1191 Camper, Supersprings, HD Timbrens, Sumosprings, Front+Rear 1.5” Sway Bars, Monroe Gas Magnum Shocks, 19.5" Vision Rims, Centramatics, Sumitomo 16 Ply.
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post #2 of 22 Old 04-19-2014, 02:20 AM
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Well it all depends on what you can afford, I'm in the same situation and tow heavy, so i have gone with the 38R and fitted a WW2, with the option of bigger inj.... when the stock units sh!t themselves.
When doing these mods (turbo, chip, etc) you should think about the extra strain on your transmission, also gauges you will need these, Trans Temp, Pryo, EGT, and fuel Pressure.

2003 F250 4X4 CC 7.3, 4R100HD
4' Turbo back exhaust, Banks Power Elbow, LPG (Gas over Diesel), DP Tuner F6, RR 6637 intake, RiffRaff Frx, Hpx, filter, Custom made transmission cooler with twin thermo fans, water to oil cooler, ScanGuage 2, Auto Meter, trans, EGT, Fuel pressure, Water to oil temp, Boost, Longrange fuel tank, 15000 Lbs winch, ARB winch bar, ARB lockers Fr & Rr, lightforce spot lights, HID's.
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post #3 of 22 Old 04-19-2014, 03:46 AM
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I think in your situation if you are going to buy a new turbo a 38r is your best bet... It will light the earliest out of all the drop in turbo's, and since you have stock injectors that's important.

Otherwise any of the billet wheels on the market will really wake the truck up, but if at some point in the future you want bigger injectors you are going to be limited. Any of the turbo's you've listed ( except that last thing, it's basically a stock rebuild with a banks wheel and wastegate modification) with handle small hybrid injectors if you ever choose to go that route.

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post #4 of 22 Old 04-19-2014, 09:12 AM
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Those are both good suggestions. To save s bit more money you could go with a Beans D66. He does not advertise them like for e99 and obs those.

I can get you a 38R or a BD Thruster if your interested as I am a dealer for Garrett and BD.

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post #5 of 22 Old 04-19-2014, 09:28 AM
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I thing the stock turbo with a WW2 is your best bang for buck right now.
Don't do a bigger exhaust housing, and if you get injectors down the road a stock turbo is fine for 160/0's which is probably what you would get for a camper hauler.

Your investment now would only be $200, so if you went 38r later it would be no big loss

PIS 230/80's, Van Turbo with EBPV, BD Billet Wheel
Lots of money spent at RiffRaff
Dual SD fuel pumps, in tank mods, CNC Fab bowl retain kit. SDK Tunes. Isspro.
Still pretty slow, just less slow now.
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I love finally having my truck back... that 7.3 dog that I was driving was just not cutting it.
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post #6 of 22 Old 04-19-2014, 12:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joel View Post
I thing the stock turbo with a WW2 is your best bang for buck right now.
I agree!

If you insist on a new turbo, i'd go for the T4-S366 set-up, since you can rebuild the damn thing, unlike the 38r

99.5 x-cab 7.3l, 6spd, 161k miles.....
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post #7 of 22 Old 04-19-2014, 12:17 PM
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ya i agree with sticking with the stock turbo.

if you want you can get rid of the ebpv valve and get a non ebpv pedestal as well.

those upgrades arent expensive and are more than plenty.

fyi my egts are never an issue anymore with this setup.

if your rebuilding your turbo go with a 360 kit from barder turbo
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post #8 of 22 Old 04-19-2014, 04:21 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the replies folks. Like I said, I'm an old guy and I have no business working on the engine myself. I use a good local shop for all of our cars and I trust them. Prior to posting this, I asked them for shop hours to do a rebuild with the wicked wheel. They quoted 5 hours shop time for the off + the on, but they said they don't rebuild turbos, they send them off to a turbo shop. I talked to this turbo shop and they quoted $399 for the rebuilt turbo + the cost of the housing (I asked for a 1.0 housing), plus the cost of the wicked wheel. So I'm in for about $800 on the rebuilt turbo with wicked wheel, plus the shop cost of 5 hours for the off + the on labor costs.

If I'm going to spend $800 for a rebuilt turbo, in my mind I might as well future proof a little and step up to one of the other turbo's that can better support future mods like bigger injectors if/when mine start having issues.

My 4R100 transmission has a supplementary cooler, a John Wood Throttle Body, and the 4R100 cooler bypass delete. I used to have issues with my transmission temps going over 210 before these mods, but now it stays below 170. I'm hoping that's enough for the 65 tow tune, if not, I'll suffer the consequences and do the full Monty John Wood transmission.

00 F350 Lariat CC, DRW, 2wd, 7.3 , Auto, Tru-Cool MAX tCooler, Delrale Deep Cooling Pan, JW Valve Body, aFe Stage II Intake, aFe 4” Turbo Back, Pillar Mount Gshift Gauges (Pyro, Boost, Trans), GTP38R, Barder Billet Wheel, Bellowed Pipes, EBPV pedestal, PHP Hydra, Riff Raff FRX, HPX, EBP, Swamps HV/HF IDM, Dieselsite Max AC. 2014 Lance 1191 Camper, Supersprings, HD Timbrens, Sumosprings, Front+Rear 1.5” Sway Bars, Monroe Gas Magnum Shocks, 19.5" Vision Rims, Centramatics, Sumitomo 16 Ply.
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post #9 of 22 Old 04-19-2014, 04:58 PM
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Where are you steve? Perhaps a local powerstroker will help you out for a few bucks.
A turbo re-n-re is a very simple task. And if the turbo doesn't need to be rebuilt the WW could be installed in an hour or so

PIS 230/80's, Van Turbo with EBPV, BD Billet Wheel
Lots of money spent at RiffRaff
Dual SD fuel pumps, in tank mods, CNC Fab bowl retain kit. SDK Tunes. Isspro.
Still pretty slow, just less slow now.
Quote:
Originally Posted by peixinho View Post
I love finally having my truck back... that 7.3 dog that I was driving was just not cutting it.
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post #10 of 22 Old 04-19-2014, 06:00 PM
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ya i can have the turbo off in 20-25 minutes. wheel installed in about 5 minutes.
so the shop is charging you a lot.

rebuilding it is simple too. probably takes an hour your first time.

and a standard rebuild kit is only 70 bucks, upgraded rebuild kit is 95 bucks...

99.5 f250 7.3 4x4 260k FF 160/30, PHP Hydra, S&B CAI, 4" Exhaust, RR Billet Wheel, Autometer Gauges, Transgo, Non-Ebpv Pedestal, High Flow Outlet, 08 Tow Mirrors.

Dad-2000 7.3 4x4 110k miles, Autometer Gauges, Superchips 1705, 6637, 4" Exhaust, BD Billet Wheel, TruCool Max
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