nlmt brute66 vs poor boy vs 38r - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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post #1 of 22 Old 01-17-2014, 09:26 AM Thread Starter
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nlmt brute66 vs poor boy vs 38r

im at the point of needing a new turbo,bad. ive narrowed it down to 3 options.

ive been in contact with dyno proven and spoke with them abiut their options,
first,the poor boy with a billet wheel would be a solid option.and for the price its a great deal. but as of now I haven't read anyone using it. Im also not siure if it requires a 4" larger intake tube,which with a billet wheel and tube puts it in 38r territory.

the brute 66 out perfoms the 38r on paper but again no real feedback

the 38r is proven and I can source one brand new for 1300 shipped to my door.

could someone give feedback on anything they may know about the brute versions.

other than a upgraded hpop I don't plan on touching much else.

what I don't want is the same " change to xx style mount and have more turbo options.

2000 7.3 ccsb BTS 4r100,frx,coolant filter,custom intake,mbrp turbo back,Php FU,walbro 392,hi flow outlet,turbo master
Pro comp 6.5,bilstein 5160 front/rear,pro comp ladder bars,moto metals/37" hankooks.
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post #2 of 22 Old 01-17-2014, 03:09 PM
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Can't comment on the differences between the turbos. I think I'm going to go with 38R with WW2 myself, and probably some 238/100 injectors. I considered the Brute but like you said the 38R has a much larger fan club and there's very little info. on the other. The only thing that makes me hesitate on the 38R is how loud the turbo is - but I guess I'll just have to live with it. You shouldn't need an HPOP with a 2000 unless your running larger than the 238 injectors or your's is worn out.
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post #3 of 22 Old 01-17-2014, 06:26 PM Thread Starter
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the guys at no limit have been helpful and answered my questions like it was the first time they have been asked,not making me feell like an ***.

the poorboy with a billet wheel would be just a little over 1200 shipped. the only two things holding me back are,
1-its a 1.0ar non wg housing
2-uses a stock intake coupler.

with it being a non WG and stock sticks running php tunes would I have issues(granted this is prob a stupid question since plenty of people run the van non wg without issue

with a 66 wheel and using the stock intake coupler,would this cause adverse issues?

if I manage to go the poorboy route ill have a highflow outlet and turbomaster wg for sale

2000 7.3 ccsb BTS 4r100,frx,coolant filter,custom intake,mbrp turbo back,Php FU,walbro 392,hi flow outlet,turbo master
Pro comp 6.5,bilstein 5160 front/rear,pro comp ladder bars,moto metals/37" hankooks.
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post #4 of 22 Old 01-17-2014, 06:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by n54power View Post
im at the point of needing a new turbo,bad. ive narrowed it down to 3 options.

ive been in contact with dyno proven and spoke with them abiut their options,
first,the poor boy with a billet wheel would be a solid option.and for the price its a great deal. but as of now I haven't read anyone using it. Im also not siure if it requires a 4" larger intake tube,which with a billet wheel and tube puts it in 38r territory.

the brute 66 out perfoms the 38r on paper but again no real feedback

the 38r is proven and I can source one brand new for 1300 shipped to my door.

could someone give feedback on anything they may know about the brute versions.

other than a upgraded hpop I don't plan on touching much else.

what I don't want is the same " change to xx style mount and have more turbo options.


I want to see more info on this myself since apparently who ever runs them doesn't post anything about em. My biggest question is how it does down low compared to the 38R on spool speed. My brother did a 38R on his truck when he had stock injectors and there is a heck of a difference in low end power compared to a stock turbo....on the other hand we couldn't tell a bit of difference up top until the sticks were changed. I put a WW2 with a 360 kit in my stock turbo and there is a power difference but if I had to do it over again a 38R or SD66 would be in it's place for future upgrades. After thinking about it I really don't know if the low end power from a 38R would be good for a pmr motor.

2003 F250 7.3, PHP Phoenix, 4"exaust, Banks Big Head, WW2, Tymar, 4" lift with 35's
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post #5 of 22 Old 01-17-2014, 07:32 PM Thread Starter
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clay is offering a killer deal on a 38r and I can get the brute 66 for about the same.
1.0 vs 1.15
standard wheel vs billet

or poor boy which is a 1.0,add a billet wheel. which might spit the diff perfectly for my needs.
ordering tomorrow,ill post the direction I go

2000 7.3 ccsb BTS 4r100,frx,coolant filter,custom intake,mbrp turbo back,Php FU,walbro 392,hi flow outlet,turbo master
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post #6 of 22 Old 01-18-2014, 04:43 AM
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Who is Day? I know they say the brute 66 outflows the 38R but I suspect that is not comparing it to 38R with WW2. Also for me I have a ZF6 manual so fast spool up is a requirement (lose boost between shifts). I think there's a special version on Brute for manual tranny's but info. on it is even more elusive - I'm guessing this version doesn't outflow the 38R...but I don't know. I wish there was more info. on the Brute...especially the version for my manual...I'd rather get info. from those actually running the turbo than from a vendor who's trying to make a buck.
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post #7 of 22 Old 01-18-2014, 05:50 AM
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i wondered the same thing, whether they were comparing a stock 38r or a 38r with a billet wheel.

99.5 f250 7.3 4x4 260k FF 160/30, PHP Hydra, S&B CAI, 4" Exhaust, RR Billet Wheel, Autometer Gauges, Transgo, Non-Ebpv Pedestal, High Flow Outlet, 08 Tow Mirrors.

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post #8 of 22 Old 01-18-2014, 05:56 AM
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From what ive seen, the brute66 and poor boy are machined stock housings, larger comp wheel and different exh housings. The non wastegated housing will not hurt you that much. The stock intake tube is fine. Im running a d66( the same turbo as a brute or poor boy, just different names) and its fine with stock intake tube and injectors that are stock. I think you'd like it. You can upgrade to the billet wheel at any time, they are really easy to swap. You'll notice instant power increase. You might have a little lag because of the slightly larger exh housing, but its still really drivable.
If it had the 1.15 housing on it, you'd be really laggy and you wouldn't like it

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post #9 of 22 Old 01-18-2014, 09:08 AM
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The Brute is a rebuildable version of the 38r. We tested the stock forms of the turbo's. The Brute will do everything a 38r with a billet wheel for 300.00 less. Blow the turbo?
The Brute can be re-built for about 150.00. The 38r around 700.00. You can get the Brute with a 1.0 or 1.15 depending on your set-up. For those who it matters to the Brute is quieter than the 38r. It's just a little louder than the stocker. Spool time with the 1.0 is like stock or faster. With the 1.15 housing, if you have stock injectors, it's a bit laggy but really comes to life with a set 160's or 175's..the housing dictates that.

The poor boy is just a step above the stocker and is meant for the market looking to save a buck and upgrade the stocker.
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post #10 of 22 Old 01-18-2014, 10:05 AM
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So in stock form the Brute did better than the 38R and you claim that the Brute will perform equivalent to the 38R with WW2 - is this with the wheel that comes with the Brute or a different wheel? I would imagine that the 38R would probably still light up a little sooner due to it being ball bearing - correct? Here's how I see the differences.
1. 38R probably lights ups few hundred rmps sooner
2. Brute is quieter
3. Brute can be rebuilt for hundred less
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