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Old 01-03-2014, 01:18 PM
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Billet Wheel Results?

Hello all, i recently installed a billet wheel along with a FRx in my truck. After a short test drive i noticed a sort of knocking/grinding noise and thought oh crap the wheel is hitting the compressor housing. (it was not doing that when i first installed it) Just as i suspected the wheel was just barely scraping the housing (about every ten turns i could here and feel it scrape) so i called Clay at Riff Raff and he was very helpful in returning my many calls quickly. His suggestion was to tighten up the wheel a few more inch pounds so that is exactly what i did. After i reinstalled the turbo and took it for another drive everything sounded and looked good. I did everything according to the instructions, i did NOT use an impact to remove the wheel. After my last drive i noticed a weird smell coming from what i think is under the hood. It smells like burn oil or something to that nature. Is this common after a taking the turbo off and on again? I know this is long but i also was not that impressed with the results. My boost seems to be about the same, maybe a little bit higher, and my egt's seem to be higher ( or about the same) as well? Im not sure if i was expecting to much or if i did something wrong? I am just afraid that i have screwed something up. I have been checking for leaks after every time i drive it and i have yet to discover any. (no soot around the downpipe, firewall, etc.) I may just be overreacting and my expectations may have been to much? If anyone has any guesses please let me know.
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Old 01-03-2014, 01:47 PM
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you should see a big difference in performance and egts.

are you getting lots of shaft play from your turbo?

might consider rebuilding your turbo, before it chews up your new billet wheel.

i have used an impact to swap wheels. i also did it with a ratchet on my buddies truck.

did you get the ccv hooked up correctly?

did you over tighten the turbo to the pedestal?
how about the clamp on the back of the turbo? it can be difficult to get it lined up straight sometimes.
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Old 01-03-2014, 02:10 PM
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I know the up-pipe collector clamp is on good because that is the first thing I made sure was hooked up properly.

There was no In and out play on the shaft, a little side to side.

And yes the ccv is hooked up


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Old 01-03-2014, 02:13 PM
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And I torques the pedestal to 20 ft/lbs instead of 18 because my torque wretch didn't go that low


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Old 01-03-2014, 02:59 PM
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i over tightened my pedestal when i removed it last (oops) and it restricted oil flow to the turbo. fixed that. everything was fine after all was said and done.

did you remember to hook up the ebpv rod?
.
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Old 01-03-2014, 03:03 PM
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Should I losen and retorque the pedestal?

And yes the ebpv rod is hooked up
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Old 01-03-2014, 04:39 PM
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i dont think thats your issue, just throwing it out there.

how did you remove the wastegate?
did you remove it completely or just loosen the two 10mm nuts that hold it to the compressor housing?

might try tightening the wastegate

do you need/run a boost fooler? i dont know if standard ts tunes prevent it from defueling
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Old 01-03-2014, 04:52 PM
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I would yank it and rebuild it rebuild kits are cheap enough and if nothing else it's worth the peace of mind I lost a set of bearings and now I have a wicked wheel mantle piece

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Old 01-03-2014, 04:59 PM
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I completely removed the wastegate, i took off the c-clip and the two 10mm nuts. I do run it with the red line to the wastegate disconnected and i not have a boost fooler. Im going to check my intercooler boots one more time to make sure that they are not leaking. Could leaking intercooler boots cause higher egt's?
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Old 01-03-2014, 05:39 PM
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oh ya.

a intercooler boot not on properly kills performance big time.

less boost and higher egts.

my friend had two of his loose and he could only get 10 psi max and his egts were ridiculous.
until i fixed it will eating dinner at in n out
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