wicked wheel install

[Kyle@XDP]

here this may help.

Turbocharger Removal and X-wheel install
1. Remove the decorative plastic cover directly over the engine.

2. Loosen the clamp holding the air intake hose at the turbocharger compressor inlet. Pull the hose free of the turbo compressor. Disconnect the boost line attached to the nipple on the wastegate actuator. Disconnect wiring and plastic tubing attached to components on the turbo compressor discharge plenum casting.

3. Loosen the four clamps on the hoses connecting the compressor discharge plenum casting to the intake manifolds. Loosen the clamp attaching the plenum to the turbocharger compressor outlet and the intercooler duct. Remove the compressor discharge plenum from the engine. Cover the two intake-manifold hose nipples with clean rags to prevent foreign objects from entering the engine.

4. Disengage the exhaust-backpressure control actuator rod by sliding the cover on the end of the rod back toward the turbocharger and pulling the rod downward. This rod is below the turbine housing;
it is not the wastegate actuator
rod that runs across the top of the turbocharger (see Figure 3).

5. At the rear of the turbine housing, loosen and remove the V-band clamp attaching the turbine housing to the exhaust inlet casting. Remove the two bolts attaching the turbocharger bearing housing to the pedestal base mounted on the engine. Remove the turbocharger from the engine by lifting while lightly tapping the turbine housing with a hammer.

6. Remove the two O-rings from the junction of the turbocharger bearing housing and pedestal mount. Place a clean rag over the oil passages in the pedestal mount and the exhaust inlet casting to prevent foreign object entry.

7. At the back side of the turbocharger, locate the small e-clip that retains the actuator rod end on the wastegate arm. Using a small screwdriver, carefully pry the clip off of the wastegate arm and retain for reuse. CAUTION: This clip is very small and is easy to lose. It may help to use a magnet to retain the clip as you remove it. Loosen the two wastegate actuator nuts on the turbocharger compressor housing and remove the actuator.

8. Clamp the turbocharger assembly in a vise. Do not use the compressor inlet or outlet to clamp the turbocharger. The compressor housing is aluminum and could be damaged. Observe and mark the relationship of the turbine housing to the center section of the turbo assembly.

9. Remove the exhaust backpressure control valve from the factory turbine housing, and install it onto the new turbine housing with original hardware. Duplicate the orientation of the original assembly. Use anti-seize on the bolts.

10. Remove the four bolts securing the turbine housing to the turbocharger center section. If the turbocharger is more than a few months old, it may be necessary to spray some Liquid Wrench (or similar rust penetrating lubricant) into the joint between the turbine housing and the center section. Work the housing loose from the center section by tapping with a hammer and brass drift or a soft face hammer. Work from side to side and use plenty of lubricant until the housing is loose from the center section. Pull the housing straight off of the center section to avoid damaging the turbine blades.

11. For vehicles with build dates in 1998 proceed to Step 18. Remove the five bolts around the outside of the compressor cover and carefully remove the cover by pulling it straight off the turbocharger assembly, avoiding contact with the compressor wheel. Use caution to avoid damaging the sealing o-ring around the outside diameter of the compressor back plate.

12. Secure the turbine wheel in a vise by clamping the hub of the turbine wheel. Remove the compressor wheel using a 5⁄8" socket. Install the new compressor wheel provided in the kit. Slide the wheel onto the shaft and lightly turn the wheel to engage the threads. If the wheel does not easily engage the threads, back the wheel off and try again. It may be helpful to listen for a small click while rotating the wheel counterclockwise, and then rotate the wheel clockwise again. Once the wheel has engaged the threads properly, spin it on by hand until snug. Using a torque wrench, tighten the assembly to 100 in/lbs.
Reinstall the compressor cover, making sure that the o-ring is properly seated against the backplate of the turbo. Reinstall the five bolts and tighten.
Figure 3

13. Place turbine housing onto the center section, again paying careful attention to the turbine blades. Apply some anti-seize to the four bolts and reinstall them. Check the orientation of the assembly, then tighten the bolts.

14. Install the wastegate actuator onto the turbocharger. Tighten the lock nuts on the mounting studs and adjust the rod end until the hole aligns with the wastegate arm pin. Turn the rod end link clockwise an additional six full turns, such that it will add preload to the wastegate. Apply a regulated supply of air pressure to the nipple on the actuator until the rod extends enough to slip over the wastegate arm pin. Install the e-clip onto the wastegate arm pin to retain the actuator rod. Tighten the jam nut down on the end link.

15. Reinstall the turbocharger onto the pedestal assembly on the engine. Make sure the sealing area on the pedestal assembly and the bottom of the turbocharger are clean, and the new O-rings provided are in place, then bolt the turbocharger to the pedestal. Reinstall the V-band clamp attaching the turbine housing to the exhaust inlet casting. IMPORTANT: Check the condition of the V-band clamp as over-tightening can cause the clamp to spread, allowing the T-bolt to become loose. Replace the clamp if the clamp is damaged or will not tighten. Note: If a Banks Brake is being installed follow the directions for the brake installation at this point, and then return to these instructions once that is complete.

16. Reinstall the air inlet hose to the turbocharger compressor air inlet.

[bigcountrysg]

Kyle your instructions are for Turbo removal and installation of the wheel. This person is wanting to do the install with out having to remove the turbo. It is very easily to be done with out removal of the turbo.

[Kyle@XDP]

oops, sorry. well there ya go just in case

[silverF250]

Hey it's good to know what is involved doing it that way though. I will hopefully be doing one this weekend.

[Broncoguy]

Another vote for changing it with the turbo on.

It is easy to do with an air impact. Did mine the same way scuffy did on you tube and had no problems. If you don't have the air tools, I guess you get to at least pull the DP so you can hold the wheel still, but it still shouldn't be to bad.

[drstephennix]

Yeah, i did mine w/out removing. Air tool took it right off. It spins it fast enough to compensate for not holding the back through the exhaust side.

[SCUFFY828]

as long as you use an air impac you dont need to hold the exhaust side , if you havent done it before , no harder than it is to get the turbo off and you dont have air tools , then dont mess something up to do it , its not worth it , ive done more than i can count with turbo on, but ive also done alot with them off a understood exactly what to do , so with that said , dont gable mesin up your turbo if you havent done it before