Fire Ring Hot Re-torque Questions? - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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post #1 of 14 Old 08-25-2013, 10:52 PM Thread Starter
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Fire Ring Hot Re-torque Questions?

Hey Guys!

I just got around to finally dropping in my freshly rebuilt 7.3.
I currently do not have the radiator support and fenders on my truck, I figured leaving them off would give me more room to do the hot re-torque.

I have a few questions before tackling this job!

1.) Is it safe to run the motor to operating temp without water/ radiator hooked up? I have an IR Temp Gun.
2.) When performing the hot re-torque, I start in the center of the head and work my way out, correct?

I've also heard of some people filling the block with water and then leaving the block heater on throughout the night in order to heat up the engine for a fire ring hot re-torque. What are your thoughts on this?

Thanks guys,

Andrew



1997 F350
Mahle Ceramic Coated Pistons (De-lipped), Billet Crower Connecting Rods, DI Chromoly Push Rods, Beehive Valve Springs, Fire Ring Headgaskets, ARP Head Studs, Mike's Main Girdle, Melling LPOP, Terminator Dual HPOP, 300/200 Injectors, Dual SD Fuel Pumps, Billet Aluminum Intake Plenums, 6.0 Mishimoto Intercooler, Compound Turbos (Primary = 62/68 & Atmospheric 82/88), John Wood Tranny, 4921 Transmission Cooler, Batteries Relocated to Bed

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post #2 of 14 Old 08-25-2013, 10:54 PM
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Dog house?

Is this a van or?

01 F-250 SC PSD,320k,16 Isspro Gauges, AFE-2,CCV Mod,IAH delete,map reg,Modded H2e, 6.0 IC, 230/100 from P.I.S, Studs, 910 springs, Forged rods, Water injection,Hydra chip-No Limit/Gearhead tuning, Swamps HVHF IDM, MBRP 4" dual's, Aero, 6" tip's, 4" Revtek lift, 37/12.5/16.5 MT's
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post #3 of 14 Old 08-25-2013, 10:59 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by CSIPSD View Post
Dog house?

Is this a van or?
My bad, its an f350 dually. I'm used to calling it a dog house.
I have left the rad support, fenders, hood, and wheel wells off.

Edited the OP to prevent confusion.



1997 F350
Mahle Ceramic Coated Pistons (De-lipped), Billet Crower Connecting Rods, DI Chromoly Push Rods, Beehive Valve Springs, Fire Ring Headgaskets, ARP Head Studs, Mike's Main Girdle, Melling LPOP, Terminator Dual HPOP, 300/200 Injectors, Dual SD Fuel Pumps, Billet Aluminum Intake Plenums, 6.0 Mishimoto Intercooler, Compound Turbos (Primary = 62/68 & Atmospheric 82/88), John Wood Tranny, 4921 Transmission Cooler, Batteries Relocated to Bed
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post #4 of 14 Old 08-25-2013, 11:24 PM
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You need to get it up to operating temp, which will require more then just a block heater.

01 F-250 SC PSD,320k,16 Isspro Gauges, AFE-2,CCV Mod,IAH delete,map reg,Modded H2e, 6.0 IC, 230/100 from P.I.S, Studs, 910 springs, Forged rods, Water injection,Hydra chip-No Limit/Gearhead tuning, Swamps HVHF IDM, MBRP 4" dual's, Aero, 6" tip's, 4" Revtek lift, 37/12.5/16.5 MT's
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post #5 of 14 Old 08-26-2013, 06:27 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by CSIPSD View Post
You need to get it up to operating temp, which will require more then just a block heater.
So is it safe to start the engine and let it idle ~10 min without water in the block? I was always under the assumption that running an engine without water for a short period of time was okay.

Thanks Joe!

~ Andrew



1997 F350
Mahle Ceramic Coated Pistons (De-lipped), Billet Crower Connecting Rods, DI Chromoly Push Rods, Beehive Valve Springs, Fire Ring Headgaskets, ARP Head Studs, Mike's Main Girdle, Melling LPOP, Terminator Dual HPOP, 300/200 Injectors, Dual SD Fuel Pumps, Billet Aluminum Intake Plenums, 6.0 Mishimoto Intercooler, Compound Turbos (Primary = 62/68 & Atmospheric 82/88), John Wood Tranny, 4921 Transmission Cooler, Batteries Relocated to Bed

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post #6 of 14 Old 08-26-2013, 07:52 AM
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Watch the oil temp... Dont hook up the water pump...

Your fine.

People drive around all the time with completly filled blocks, granted there is water in the heads.

01 F-250 SC PSD,320k,16 Isspro Gauges, AFE-2,CCV Mod,IAH delete,map reg,Modded H2e, 6.0 IC, 230/100 from P.I.S, Studs, 910 springs, Forged rods, Water injection,Hydra chip-No Limit/Gearhead tuning, Swamps HVHF IDM, MBRP 4" dual's, Aero, 6" tip's, 4" Revtek lift, 37/12.5/16.5 MT's
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post #7 of 14 Old 08-26-2013, 08:23 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CSIPSD View Post
Watch the oil temp... Dont hook up the water pump...

Your fine.

People drive around all the time with completly filled blocks, granted there is water in the heads.

I already have the water pump and fan on the front of the motor, whoops. I almost feel as it wouldn't be hard to rig up a bucket of water and 2 cheap autozone hoses or something for this first start..



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Mahle Ceramic Coated Pistons (De-lipped), Billet Crower Connecting Rods, DI Chromoly Push Rods, Beehive Valve Springs, Fire Ring Headgaskets, ARP Head Studs, Mike's Main Girdle, Melling LPOP, Terminator Dual HPOP, 300/200 Injectors, Dual SD Fuel Pumps, Billet Aluminum Intake Plenums, 6.0 Mishimoto Intercooler, Compound Turbos (Primary = 62/68 & Atmospheric 82/88), John Wood Tranny, 4921 Transmission Cooler, Batteries Relocated to Bed
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post #8 of 14 Old 08-26-2013, 08:50 AM
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When we did Tylers we put on the radiator and everything. Let it run and get up to temp and then we did the hot torque with most of it all still on the truck. You don't need to pull that all off to do the hot torque. I think we could get to all the studs and if we couldn't get to the back ones, we just unbolted the motor mounts, stuck a 2x4 under the manifold and rocked the motor to get to them. Sucks having to pull the injectors and re-oring them all.

I don't trust those infrared guns. I was having oil temp issues running 260 degrees and that gun read like 220. I think there are a lot of losses on the exterior face of the block.

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You will get some axle wrap with a heavy trailer, I can feel it when towing my gooseneck with some heavy equipment. My Deavers will wrap enough to make the tires rub the front of the rear fender well if I give it too much throttle on aceleration.
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post #9 of 14 Old 08-26-2013, 06:23 PM
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You dont have to replace the o-rings, just the coppers... Just FYI.

01 F-250 SC PSD,320k,16 Isspro Gauges, AFE-2,CCV Mod,IAH delete,map reg,Modded H2e, 6.0 IC, 230/100 from P.I.S, Studs, 910 springs, Forged rods, Water injection,Hydra chip-No Limit/Gearhead tuning, Swamps HVHF IDM, MBRP 4" dual's, Aero, 6" tip's, 4" Revtek lift, 37/12.5/16.5 MT's
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post #10 of 14 Old 08-26-2013, 08:34 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CSIPSD View Post
You dont have to replace the o-rings, just the coppers... Just FYI.
Is it mandatory to replace the copper bushings?
On my old SD I pulled the injectors to have them tested and didn't replace them.

Thanks for all your input and help(:
You guys are great!



1997 F350
Mahle Ceramic Coated Pistons (De-lipped), Billet Crower Connecting Rods, DI Chromoly Push Rods, Beehive Valve Springs, Fire Ring Headgaskets, ARP Head Studs, Mike's Main Girdle, Melling LPOP, Terminator Dual HPOP, 300/200 Injectors, Dual SD Fuel Pumps, Billet Aluminum Intake Plenums, 6.0 Mishimoto Intercooler, Compound Turbos (Primary = 62/68 & Atmospheric 82/88), John Wood Tranny, 4921 Transmission Cooler, Batteries Relocated to Bed
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