1.0 or 1.15 housing with ww2? - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
 
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post #1 of 9 Old 08-17-2013, 03:29 PM Thread Starter
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1.0 or 1.15 housing with ww2?

Ive been reading and searching but still not 100% sure. Given that the 1.15 is known to spool a little slower but offer better egt's I was wondering which would make a hood DD and tow setup.

2000 7.3 ccsb BTS 4r100,frx,coolant filter,custom intake,mbrp turbo back,Php FU,walbro 392,hi flow outlet,turbo master
Pro comp 6.5,bilstein 5160 front/rear,pro comp ladder bars,moto metals/37" hankooks.
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post #2 of 9 Old 08-17-2013, 04:09 PM
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On what turbo? Stock or 38R?

01 F-250 SC PSD,320k,16 Isspro Gauges, AFE-2,CCV Mod,IAH delete,map reg,Modded H2e, 6.0 IC, 230/100 from P.I.S, Studs, 910 springs, Forged rods, Water injection,Hydra chip-No Limit/Gearhead tuning, Swamps HVHF IDM, MBRP 4" dual's, Aero, 6" tip's, 4" Revtek lift, 37/12.5/16.5 MT's
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post #3 of 9 Old 08-17-2013, 04:09 PM Thread Starter
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Stock turbo

2000 7.3 ccsb BTS 4r100,frx,coolant filter,custom intake,mbrp turbo back,Php FU,walbro 392,hi flow outlet,turbo master
Pro comp 6.5,bilstein 5160 front/rear,pro comp ladder bars,moto metals/37" hankooks.
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post #4 of 9 Old 08-17-2013, 04:12 PM
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Leave the stock housing alone... You have already spent money on a outlet, on a wastegate controler and now an added compressor wheel...

By the time your done, you will have spent more money then you would have picking up a 38R.

01 F-250 SC PSD,320k,16 Isspro Gauges, AFE-2,CCV Mod,IAH delete,map reg,Modded H2e, 6.0 IC, 230/100 from P.I.S, Studs, 910 springs, Forged rods, Water injection,Hydra chip-No Limit/Gearhead tuning, Swamps HVHF IDM, MBRP 4" dual's, Aero, 6" tip's, 4" Revtek lift, 37/12.5/16.5 MT's
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post #5 of 9 Old 08-17-2013, 04:22 PM Thread Starter
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$50 on the outlet and $50 for the TM. Add in the wheel and I'm into it for $300.
Another $200 and I'm still alot less than a used 38r.

2000 7.3 ccsb BTS 4r100,frx,coolant filter,custom intake,mbrp turbo back,Php FU,walbro 392,hi flow outlet,turbo master
Pro comp 6.5,bilstein 5160 front/rear,pro comp ladder bars,moto metals/37" hankooks.

Last edited by n54power; 08-17-2013 at 04:27 PM.
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post #6 of 9 Old 08-19-2013, 04:13 AM
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^
Where are you getting your parts for that cost? the outlets I find are $200...

*Edit: I think modding your stock turbo isn't a bad idea for the money depending on your final goals for the truck, $500 +/- for a good rebuilt turbo that serves its purpose makes more sense than $1400 for a 38R if you don't need it.

-Brad

00' F350 CC DRW still pushing well past 300K: 6637, GTP38R, 5.6k mod on turn dial, superchips, trans command, Torque pro on Galxy S2 for PID monitor, OD lock, 4" straight pipe, condensor cooler w/electric fan, watersprayed intercooler, 08' taillights, 05' headlights, BD valve body kit, all door locks foiled, full LED exterior light kit, and the list is still growing.
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post #7 of 9 Old 08-20-2013, 10:16 AM Thread Starter
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I watch craigslist and I barter parts off my parts motors.
I was thinking a 1.0ar would give me a little more top end and better egts

2000 7.3 ccsb BTS 4r100,frx,coolant filter,custom intake,mbrp turbo back,Php FU,walbro 392,hi flow outlet,turbo master
Pro comp 6.5,bilstein 5160 front/rear,pro comp ladder bars,moto metals/37" hankooks.
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post #8 of 9 Old 08-25-2013, 10:05 AM
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I have a van turbo with the 1.15 housing an BD's billet wheel.
I really like the way it drives and I can't get the EGT's too high even if I try.
I can't comment on the 1.0 housing because I never had one

PIS 175/80's, Van Turbo with EBPV, BD Billet Wheel
Lots of money spent at RiffRaff
Holley fuel pump, in tank mods, crappy riding leveling kit, DP-F6, 5 Gauges+Edge CS in dash, CB radio in Dash, over 100 goofy little mods
Still pretty slow, just less slow now.
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Originally Posted by peixinho View Post
I love finally having my truck back... that 7.3 dog that I was driving was just not cutting it.
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post #9 of 9 Old 08-25-2013, 07:55 PM
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I can understand CSIPSD's position.
The 38r's are a direct bolt-in upgrade - pure and simple.
But the prices on those start from $1300 up to $2000 depending on who you go with.
Now from all the threads I've come across - the 1.00 to 1.15 A/R debate has been pretty extensive.
Now unless you're doing something really high flow and horsepower - the 1.00 will be fine. But there's nothing wrong with using the 1.15 either.

I just finished building my "hodge podge parts" budget turbo.
Core - 100 Banks 1.00 A/R turbine housing - 300, ATS 4" Ported Compressor housing- 250
Garrett Rebuild kit - 75, BD wastegate - 100 BD 9 blade billet Wheel - 200

Now at just over $1000, I consider myself ahead of the game price wise compared to the 38r's out there.
I may not have the fastest spool up compared the 38r's, but it will certainly be better than stock, and if not darn close to the performance of a 38r.

But with the WW2 and a 1.00 housing - I'd just get an upgraded wastegate and call it done for a good tow/DD turbo!



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