keep 7.3 or go 12v? - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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post #1 of 24 Old 08-15-2013, 06:02 AM Thread Starter
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keep 7.3 or go 12v?

I'm to the point that the next performance mod is going to be a big hit. Injectors, turbo, and HPOP are all big steps. The truck has 277,xxx miles on, so am I getting a balanced hp to $ ratio by keeping the 7.3? Or should I go with a 12v, rebuild it and have a brand new motor in the truck for a little more cost than building the 7.3?
BTW my best friend is a diesel mechanic so labor is just lunch and 12 pack.

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post #2 of 24 Old 08-15-2013, 06:10 AM
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Is there anything wrong with the motor other than the mileage?? And I'm lost on the term "12v", these days it's way less $$$ too rebuild then buy a new $60,000+ truck, plus the headache's of the DEF crapp If I could afford about 2 or 3 thousand $$$ I'd have a brand new truck.

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post #3 of 24 Old 08-15-2013, 06:20 AM Thread Starter
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The motor is flawless, I absolutely love this truck and will pull anything I throw on it. My parents bought it new and I bought it off them so I know it's been well taken care of. The only reason I'm flirting with the idea is the fact that I want to be between 4-450hp, reliable, and still be able to pull without the pyro gauge acting as an rpm gauge.
(12v means 12 valve cummins)

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post #4 of 24 Old 08-15-2013, 06:58 AM
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seen a threrad, where the member..(a VERY reputable person), with 160/100, everything else is stock, banging at 408hp. All in the "tuning"..

Have you been to the 12v side of the forums, and read a few threads? Isnt the vp44 a 2k drop also?

99.5 x-cab 7.3l, 6spd, 161k miles.....
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post #5 of 24 Old 08-15-2013, 07:01 AM
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Well a 12V will put out some nice numbers for less money (when compared with the 7.3). A Ppump 12V, a compound turbo setup, some decent sticks, and it'll be a monster and can be done on stock internals.

Only problem I think you'll run into is the swap factor and making everything work. You need to decide which tranny you'll use. If you stick with the 4R100 you need a controller for it, then you need to adapt some sensors so the gauges work, engine mounts fab, tranny to engine adapter, etc.

Sure the 12V might be cheaper up front in regards to price to make power, but to put it in your truck will be fairly costly.

I think you can easily make 400-450HP reliably with your 7.3 as well.

Quote:
Originally Posted by timmyboy76
Have you been to the 12v side of the forums, and read a few threads? Isnt the vp44 a 2k drop also?
The VP44 is a 24V, the 12V 94-97 is a Ppump/mechanical injection.

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post #6 of 24 Old 08-15-2013, 07:10 AM
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Originally Posted by bikeluver43 View Post
The VP44 is a 24V, the 12V 94-97 is a Ppump/mechanical injection.
, well dip me in honey, and throw me to the lesbians. What then is there to the 12v, that has a high price tag to it...parts, upgrades..etc?

99.5 x-cab 7.3l, 6spd, 161k miles.....
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post #7 of 24 Old 08-15-2013, 07:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 7.3powerstroke2000 View Post
I'm to the point that the next performance mod is going to be a big hit. Injectors, turbo, and HPOP are all big steps. The truck has 277,xxx miles on, so am I getting a balanced hp to $ ratio by keeping the 7.3? Or should I go with a 12v, rebuild it and have a brand new motor in the truck for a little more cost than building the 7.3?
BTW my best friend is a diesel mechanic so labor is just lunch and 12 pack.
Does your 7.3 need a rebuild? How much power are you looking for? If your engine doesn't need a rebuild then your ahead with the 7.3.

One thing to consider, swaps are a bit like home renovation projects... they almost always cost more and take longer than you think. But you can get exactly what you want.

Quote:
Originally Posted by hansel View Post
Is there anything wrong with the motor other than the mileage?? And I'm lost on the term "12v", these days it's way less $$$ too rebuild then buy a new $60,000+ truck, plus the headache's of the DEF crapp If I could afford about 2 or 3 thousand $$$ I'd have a brand new truck.
A 12 Valve (12 V) is the Cummins engines used by dodge from 1989 to early 1998. The 1994-early 1998 12 P7100 pumped Cummins is considered the small block chevy of diesel performance. Lots of bang for your buck.

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Sold: 04.5 Dodge Ram 2500 5.9 CTD, Reg Cab, 48re
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post #8 of 24 Old 08-15-2013, 07:23 AM
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Have you ever drove a dodge before? Honestly that alone i would stick to the 7.3, I had one and my buddy has had a few and i just didnt like the ride and everything in the interior is just crap and breaks if you look at it the wrong way.

I like the cummins, never really been around one much but either way your gonna be paying to get the cummins where you want. Since you have a vehicle that you personally know pretty much its whole life thats priceless. A lot of guys dont have that luxury. Plus on top of that unless you have a 12v already lined up good luck getting your hands on one that isnt already beat to hell or they want a million dollars for.

Personally I would stick with something i know already and hasnt let me down over the potentially unknown but its your truck bud you gotta make that decision yourself

Edit just realized you meant a cummins swap

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Quote:
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With the issues fixed a 6.0 can run circles around a 7.3.
2000 F-350 7.3L ZF6
Standard 7.3 mods
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8" Fabtech lift 13" total
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46" Goodyear MVTs Military takeoffs
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post #9 of 24 Old 08-15-2013, 07:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by timmyboy76 View Post
, well dip me in honey, and throw me to the lesbians. What then is there to the 12v, that has a high price tag to it...parts, upgrades..etc?
LOL that is an awesome line right there. Wish I could "like" your post haha

There are a lot of "free" hp mods you can make to the Ppump 12V - remove the fuel plate (allows the pump to basically fuel as much as possible), adjust the wastegate (basically similar to our Red Line wastegate mod) which will add more boost to the HX35, and tune the AFC (Air Fuel Control) and timing as well.

Then you get into modifying/buying parts - Upgrade injectors $1000+, buy some new DV's (Delivery Valves), Turbo, and of course most will do an Airdog or Fass fuel system to keep the fuel up to snuff.

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post #10 of 24 Old 08-15-2013, 08:02 AM
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Problem with a P pump motor is... If its set up for 500hp, its always at 500hp. Its 100% a mechanical motor. Three wire hook up to power it... There is no chip to turn down...

If your going to go to a cummins set up, then just do it right, fork out the money and do a CR swap.

Myself, for a 400-450hp build...

Modded H2e.
230/100 injectors.
Stock oil.
Fuel system to support (nothing wild needed)...

And a set of studs.

Done.

01 F-250 SC PSD,320k,16 Isspro Gauges, AFE-2,CCV Mod,IAH delete,map reg,Modded H2e, 6.0 IC, 230/100 from P.I.S, Studs, 910 springs, Forged rods, Water injection,Hydra chip-No Limit/Gearhead tuning, Swamps HVHF IDM, MBRP 4" dual's, Aero, 6" tip's, 4" Revtek lift, 37/12.5/16.5 MT's
Joe



DYNOPROVEN.COM, PERFORMANCEINJECTIONSYSTEMS.COM and RIFFRAFFDIESEL.COM
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