Drag Racer

[ward.racing]

Im not exactly a expert on ford's Ive owned several powerstoke in the past. I just got a 2001 250 2wd that needs a motor. My brother and I are planning to gut it and basically strictly racing it.

As far as the motor goes, Since it needs rebuilt I just was wondering which way to go with it. Pistons, Crank, and so on. I plan on having the heads p&p and fire ringed with arp studs holdn them down.

It has a 6-speed in it right now but plan on going to a billet auto.

Any help would be appriciated.

Thanks

Mark

[MrJohnWayne]

depends on how much power you want to make and what kinda money you want to spend. I'm no expert either but if you want to make serious power you are gonna spend serious money.

[Harohunter]

^agreed.

It would be alot cheaper to run a cummings engine(assuming your going for big power).
Also they are just plain faster for less money.

[2wd_sled_puller_dmax]

Originally Posted by Harohunter

^agreed.

It would be alot cheaper to run a cummings engine(assuming your going for big power).
Also they are just plain faster for less money.

X2 Thousands and thousands cheaper to build big power and still be a very reliable DD

[ward.racing]

yea i got a dodge 2500 that runs low 12's, and tryn to get 11's. but we were wantn to do something a lil differant and build a powerstroke. BUT we got a 12v sittn in the shop maybe goin in it.

[southmike]

well I assume you want to keep it ford..so I woulds strongly recomend skipping the small stuff and buy a crate motor with billet rods, coated pistons, high temp valves..h-11 studs, hardened push rods and a girdle. wide open, DI and bwd all offer them.
really not a bad price when you look at the whole deal.

then add a fluid damper, fire rings , some of those blocks have them. a full fuel sytem,
something like 1/2 inch lines to a fass sytem and reg return. add some good strong intakes, like beans diesel performance has, a large turbo like a modded h2e or gt42r,
some big injectors , big oil and have a blast.

[Southpaw]

Originally Posted by southmike

well I assume you want to keep it ford..so I woulds strongly recomend skipping the small stuff and buy a crate motor with billet rods, coated pistons, high temp valves..h-11 studs, hardened push rods and a girdle. wide open, DI and bwd all offer them.
really not a bad price when you look at the whole deal.

then add a fluid damper, fire rings , some of those blocks have them. a full fuel sytem,
something like 1/2 inch lines to a fass sytem and reg return. add some good strong intakes, like beans diesel performance has, a large turbo like a modded h2e or gt42r,
some big injectors , big oil and have a blast.

I need to go check my bank account...I think i'm poorer after only reading this.

That'll do it though!

Good luck eith it ward.

[moore20017.3]

They are talking another $10K on top besides the $10K on bottom. If you do go through with the Ford build I would recommed trying to P-Pump it and save the $3K for injectors, $2.5K for Big Oil, programming, and so on. If you have access to low cost machine shop, look at P-Pumpin that bit_h! I am trying to figure it out myself cause I just can't dump the powerstroke yet.

There is one that I know of running "north of 1500 Horsepower" It works for sled pulling it'll work for racing. IMO

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Last edited by moore20017.3 : 05-07-2008 at 01:02 PM.

[gtspowerstroke]

It sounds like you are probably a pretty competent wrencher already so I'm assuming you'll be doing the build yourself. Here is what I did and would recomend after a lot of research and trial and error.

Crower Rods
Mahle pistons, ceramic coated and if you plan on running a ton of boost have Mahle machine the bowls
Main studs don't waste your money on a gurdle. They don't do what they are supposed to unless someone has one that bolts to the sides of the main caps. If you really want to keep the caps from walking machine dowl recesses in the main stud holes to put dowls in around the main studs. That will absolutly keep the main caps from walking.
Head studs
Fire rings
hardened push rods
skip a heavy port and polish and just clean up the rough edges in the heads
SI valves
heavier valve springs, don't just get X spring because someone said so. Figure out how much boost you want to run and give Crane or Comp cams a call and tell them the size of your valve and how much boost etc and they'll tell you how much seat pressure you need. It's considerably more than just 100-110 lbs of seat pressure like a lot of people like to think.
new valve guides

That should pretty much take care of the engine. I think I got most everything. Then you're going to be needing to look at perifials. Fuel system is going to need to be completely upgraded. At least a -10 line from the tank to the pump. At least -6 if not -8 from the pump to the heads. New high flow pump, filter and regulator.

Bigger injectors. If you are going for an all out race truck you are probably going to be looking at a set of B codes. To run the B codes you're going to need a bigger oil system as well. I'd give Swamp's a call as they have the highest flowing, easiest install, and least expensive option for a full kit out there.

Bigger turbo(s) as well. You are going to want at least a GT42R or a set of twins.

Obviously there is going ot be a little more than that, but that should give you a good start

[2wd_sled_puller_dmax]

Originally Posted by moore20017.3

They are talking another $10K on top besides the $10K on bottom. If you do go through with the Ford build I would recommed trying to P-Pump it and save the $3K for injectors, $2.5K for Big Oil, programming, and so on. If you have access to low cost machine shop, look at P-Pumpin that bit_h! I am trying to figure it out myself cause I just can't dump the powerstroke yet.

There is one that I know of running "north of 1500 Horsepower" It works for sled pulling it'll work for racing. IMO

Double over time is not your everyday 7.3