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Old 07-14-2013, 11:21 AM
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Yet another 500hp Build Topic...

Hey guys,

So before we start, let me preface with this. My truck had a weird clacking noise, so we believed it was a wrist pin. Checking the wrist pins involved pulling the motor... So I saved up the cash, and did a complete forged internals rebuild on my 7.3. Everything. There is not one reused part in my motor. And everything is forged.

Before I put the motor in, I discussed with my mechanic that I wanted to eventually take this truck to 500+ hp. So before we put this motor back in, let's go over support mods that I will need to get there. I want to build in 3 (more) stages. Now that I have the support mods in place. Here's the list:

CURRENTLY INSTALLED SUPPORT MODS
1.) Napa DIY Air Filter
2.) MBRP 4" Turbo Back Exhaust
3.) Gauge cluster (Turbo, EGT, and Tranny)
4.) Hayden Transmission Cooler
5.) Rebuilt transmission with forged internals and Billet torque converter. When she does go, though, I will be going with an ATS All-Billet Tranny
6.) New radiator (old one had build up)
7.) ARP Head studs
8.) Comp Cam 910-16 Valve Springs (I heard that pushrods will literally NEVER bend. Guys are pushing 600+ on stock push rods)
9.) Not a support mod, but, Tony Wildman 6-position chip

The plan goes as follows in their respective stages
STAGE 1: Fuel, Oil, Meth
1.) AirDog regulated return fuel system
2.) HPOP (Bore the stock one? Adrenaline? T500? I need suggestions)
3.) Stage 2 Snow Water-Meth injection (Fuel economy and power is the game here)
4.) Retune done by Tony Wildman to accommodate the new HPOP

STAGE 2: Injectors and Intercooler
1.) Upgrade intercooler (suggestions)
2.) 160/100 Injectors (Full Force, Swamps, Rosewoods??)
3.) Detune the injectors. Retune by TW.

STAGE 3: Air Delivery
1.) Garrett 38r Turbo installed
2.) Retune by TW, bring those injectors back to life, and dump air into those cylinders!!

Now a couple pointers on the responses I'm looking for. Please don't post "Buy a 6.0 / 6.4 / 6.7 / 5.9 / 6.6". I have a fully paid off, fully rebuilt 7.3 sitting in my driveway. I bought her for reliability, and I full expect to build a motor that will not grenade on me every other weekend.

She tows my boat, and she will be towing my boat to the keys almost every other weekend. So I need her to be RELIABLE at 500+ hp. I don't mind running a stock tune that keeps me at 320+hp, then flipping the switch and roasting tires at 500. In fact, I would prefer it almost.

I want to know a couple things.
1.) Suggestions for support mods that I am missing or that I haven't accounted for
2.) Company and product suggestions for the stuff with question marks
3.) If I'm doing things in the right order - I need to break the build into 3 parts because I'm saving for a mortgage - which is inherently more important than my truck.
4.) If I'm missing something or I've gone about something wrong. I would REALLY love some input from the tuner guys here - DP, PHP, Beans. I know I'm rocking Tony Wildman, convince me to switch


Thanks guys. I'll let you know how she's coming along. She comes home this week, then she's off to paint.
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  #2  
Old 07-14-2013, 12:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LakiPolitis View Post
Hey guys,

So before we start, let me preface with this. My truck had a weird clacking noise, so we believed it was a wrist pin. Checking the wrist pins involved pulling the motor... So I saved up the cash, and did a complete forged internals rebuild on my 7.3. Everything. There is not one reused part in my motor. And everything is forged.

Before I put the motor in, I discussed with my mechanic that I wanted to eventually take this truck to 500+ hp. So before we put this motor back in, let's go over support mods that I will need to get there. I want to build in 3 (more) stages. Now that I have the support mods in place. Here's the list:

CURRENTLY INSTALLED SUPPORT MODS
1.) Napa DIY Air Filter
2.) MBRP 4" Turbo Back Exhaust
3.) Gauge cluster (Turbo, EGT, and Tranny)
4.) Hayden Transmission Cooler
5.) Rebuilt transmission with forged internals and Billet torque converter. When she does go, though, I will be going with an ATS All-Billet Tranny
6.) New radiator (old one had build up)
7.) ARP Head studs
8.) Comp Cam 910-16 Valve Springs (I heard that pushrods will literally NEVER bend. Guys are pushing 600+ on stock push rods)
9.) Not a support mod, but, Tony Wildman 6-position chip

The plan goes as follows in their respective stages
STAGE 1: Fuel, Oil, Meth
1.) AirDog regulated return fuel system
2.) HPOP (Bore the stock one? Adrenaline? T500? I need suggestions)
3.) Stage 2 Snow Water-Meth injection (Fuel economy and power is the game here)
4.) Retune done by Tony Wildman to accommodate the new HPOP

STAGE 2: Injectors and Intercooler
1.) Upgrade intercooler (suggestions)
2.) 160/100 Injectors (Full Force, Swamps, Rosewoods??)
3.) Detune the injectors. Retune by TW.

STAGE 3: Air Delivery
1.) Garrett 38r Turbo installed
2.) Retune by TW, bring those injectors back to life, and dump air into those cylinders!!

Now a couple pointers on the responses I'm looking for. Please don't post "Buy a 6.0 / 6.4 / 6.7 / 5.9 / 6.6". I have a fully paid off, fully rebuilt 7.3 sitting in my driveway. I bought her for reliability, and I full expect to build a motor that will not grenade on me every other weekend.

She tows my boat, and she will be towing my boat to the keys almost every other weekend. So I need her to be RELIABLE at 500+ hp. I don't mind running a stock tune that keeps me at 320+hp, then flipping the switch and roasting tires at 500. In fact, I would prefer it almost.

I want to know a couple things.
1.) Suggestions for support mods that I am missing or that I haven't accounted for
2.) Company and product suggestions for the stuff with question marks
3.) If I'm doing things in the right order - I need to break the build into 3 parts because I'm saving for a mortgage - which is inherently more important than my truck.
4.) If I'm missing something or I've gone about something wrong. I would REALLY love some input from the tuner guys here - DP, PHP, Beans. I know I'm rocking Tony Wildman, convince me to switch


Thanks guys. I'll let you know how she's coming along. She comes home this week, then she's off to paint.
First off, I would not use ATS for a trans, I have heard nothing but horror stories for the most part. Get a BTS and call it a day.

I would also add push rods to that list.

I would not run air dog either. Either use Marty's twin SD pump fuel system or buy Jake's fuel system, there are many cheaper and superior options.

HPOP I would recommend the SRP1.1, more expensive but more flow and a superior warranty.

I would use Cooling Mist over snow, far superior kit.

In closing, stage 2's and a 38r will not yield 500 hp, and you will not be reliable while towing with 500 ponies. Any tow tune will de-tune you to 350 ponies.

P.S. - If you really want the 500 bench mark, change to 238/100 hybrids.
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Old 07-14-2013, 12:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 01Crewcab7.3 View Post
First off, I would not use ATS for a trans, I have heard nothing but horror stories for the most part. Get a BTS and call it a day.
They only have a 2 year warranty. Got a couple people I know personally who swear by ATS - and one's a Chevy guy. He was pushing just shy of 1100 hp to the tranny, blew his up 3 times. They warrantied all of his repairs (made him pay for input shafts and shipping though).
Quote:
I would also add push rods to that list.
How many trucks here have had bent pushrods at 500 hp? I've talked to a lot of people and they say you don't need them, the stock ones hold up fine. If people are experiencing it, then... while I have the motor, might as well get them done.

Quote:
I would not run air dog either. Either use Marty's twin SD pump fuel system or buy Jake's fuel system, there are many cheaper and superior options

HPOP I would recommend the SRP1.1, more expensive but more flow and a superior warranty.
Links?

Quote:
I would use Cooling Mist over snow, far superior kit.
What's the logic, what makes it better? I'd like to know. I've heard people swear up and down on Snow and people swear up and down on Cooling mist. What's the difference?

Quote:
In closing, stage 2's and a 38r will not yield 500 hp, and you will not be reliable while towing with 500 ponies. Any tow tune will de-tune you to 350 ponies.

P.S. - If you really want the 500 bench mark, change to 238/100 hybrids.
I think I may be heading in the 238/100 hybrid direction. Can the Garrett 38r get me the boost that I need, though? Do I need a bigger turbo? Aurora 3000, Garrett 42r? I'm going to need to be in the 40 - 55 lbs of boost range to really hit that number.
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Old 07-14-2013, 12:38 PM
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Agreed that ATS is not worth the money. I personally know a guy and actually was with him when the trans broke the input shaft and when he went to get a warranty claim done... ATS said that he had to be hitting the rev limiter while dropping trans from drive to reverse and this was not the case at all. If anyone has ever been to ATS shop... There is always 50 purple trannies sitting on the floor waiting to be fixed. Good luck man! Nothing wrong with upgrading a truck that's paid off!
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Old 07-14-2013, 12:52 PM
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Here is the link for Marty's fuel system:

DIY Fuel System

I would recommend a Pius Bell turbo and a T4 mount from Irate with 238/100's. You should be able to tow and make great power.

From everything I have seen, the Cooling Mist uses a superior pump. Snow is pretty much like Banks, good stuff, but overpriced and there are better options.
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Old 07-15-2013, 04:58 AM
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FWIW, a 38R with WW2 and 250/200's made over 600hp during testing. This is on dieselsite and PHP also worked with Bob quite a bit with dyno runs with the 38R.

http://www.dieselsite.com/wickedwheelforthegtp38r.aspx

That's what I have but on 160/100's.

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Old 07-15-2013, 09:21 AM
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The reason I don't like the 38r is the fact that it is a throw away turbo. That reason in its self is enough for me to spend the extra coin on a t4 mount and a turbo that I can rebuild and that will hold up to the bigger sticks better and longer. Just my opinion.


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Old 07-15-2013, 09:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 01Crewcab7.3 View Post
The reason I don't like the 38r is the fact that it is a throw away turbo. That reason in its self is enough for me to spend the extra coin on a t4 mount and a turbo that I can rebuild and that will hold up to the bigger sticks better and longer. Just my opinion.


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I've heard this as well. Is the 42r or the Aurora 3000 a rebuildable turbo? T4 mount? Which turbos will that match up to?
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Old 07-15-2013, 09:38 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LakiPolitis View Post
I've heard this as well. Is the 42r or the Aurora 3000 a rebuildable turbo? T4 mount? Which turbos will that match up to?
When you go to the t4 mount you have dozens of options for turbos, another huge benefit. The majority of the big turbos (aside from the h2e that is t4i) are t4 mount.

Check out Irate Diesels site or Swamps to see a few of the options for t4 turbos.
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Old 07-15-2013, 12:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LakiPolitis View Post
I've heard this as well. Is the 42r or the Aurora 3000 a rebuildable turbo? T4 mount? Which turbos will that match up to?
Do a bit more research on the 38R. As long as you do your regular maintenance they last for well over 200k miles. Most people don't even keep their trucks that long anyway. Not saying that you won't, but most do.

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