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post #1 of 10 Old 06-15-2013, 04:15 AM Thread Starter
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Exhaust manifolds?

Well, it seems we finally found the exhaust leak in the engine compartment - the passenger-side manifold appears to have a hole in it.

Before I let the mechanic just stick a stock manifold in there, are there any better choices? Better choices under $250 each, or $400 for a pair, because that's about all I'm spending on manifold(s), as I expect there will be substantial labor costs given how rusted the bolts look.
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post #2 of 10 Old 06-15-2013, 09:39 AM
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theirs only a few places that make headers, and they are about 1000 bucks...
thats why no one has them lol

ya any bolts in the exhaust system are a not very fun to get out. i hope he used lots of penetrating oil.

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post #3 of 10 Old 06-15-2013, 08:03 PM
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I recently had to replace the EBPV fitting on the front of the passenger manifold..what a B!TCH!

I soaked it with penetrating oil for a week; still would not budge. Ended up using a small torch and a candle. Came right out after 4 or 5 heat cycles.

Made me think how much of a pain in the @ss the headers would be if I ever went that route.

Good luck!

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post #4 of 10 Old 08-14-2013, 11:04 PM
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Headers

They are expensive but nothing replaces what they do. I've heard the big numbers don't show the value. I guess if your a racer and the big numbers is all you want, do what you gotta do. Power band starts lower than 1500rpm, total turbo response throughout the power band is better. I saw fuel mileage improvement and a real loud turbo. For a daily driver, I can't find any down side. I have less smoke and better fuel mileage.

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post #5 of 10 Old 08-15-2013, 12:54 AM
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Originally Posted by Ramsmoker View Post
They are expensive but nothing replaces what they do. I've heard the big numbers don't show the value. I guess if your a racer and the big numbers is all you want, do what you gotta do. Power band starts lower than 1500rpm, total turbo response throughout the power band is better. I saw fuel mileage improvement and a real loud turbo. For a daily driver, I can't find any down side. I have less smoke and better fuel mileage.
Where do you come up with this chit man?

Headers are a total waste on all but a full build motor... Good lord

To the OP'er, get a set of coated factory manifolds and be done...

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post #6 of 10 Old 08-15-2013, 03:48 AM Thread Starter
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I ended up just getting the replacement manifold. Summit Racing had the best price. The unit was a Dorman, and both I and my mechanic were impressed by the quality; the machining was right up to OWM standards.

I bought the mounting bolts from the local Ford dealer, as I wanted to make 100% certain that those were right.

Also ended up replacing the up-pipe - when we removed the manifold, the up-pipe just fell out of the upper flange... the gasket was just gone. I would have preferred to do the bellowed up-pipe, but I wasn't about to tear apart half of the engine bay, right now. The factory unit went in with no additional disassembly. I also didn't want to wait to have one delivered, and the factory up-pipe was available at the dealer.

We ended up having to torch off the heads of all eight manifold bolts, and the two bolts that connect the manifold to the up-pipe. Then heated them red and sprayed them with penetrating oil. Came back in an hour and they actually came out smoothly with the extractor.

I installed the RiffRaff FRx that's been sitting on my shelf, and my own bypass oil filtration kit (similar to the "SpringerPop" design, but mounted differently) while he was working on the exhaust, so it was a pretty productive day. I like being on good terms with my mechanic, so I can use his shop and tools - fighting the fuel test plugs out of the heads with visegrips and such was going to be crazy, but if you actually have a 5/16" square socket, they come out with no more trouble than any other bolt.
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post #7 of 10 Old 08-15-2013, 07:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BrownianHeatingTech View Post
Also ended up replacing the up-pipe - when we removed the manifold, the up-pipe just fell out of the upper flange... the gasket was just gone. I would have preferred to do the bellowed up-pipe, but I wasn't about to tear apart half of the engine bay, right now.
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post #8 of 10 Old 08-15-2013, 07:56 AM
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I use SS bolts for my manifolds... Easy cheasy removal.

01 F-250 SC PSD,320k,16 Isspro Gauges, AFE-2,CCV Mod,IAH delete,map reg,Modded H2e, 6.0 IC, 230/100 from P.I.S, Studs, 910 springs, Forged rods, Water injection,Hydra chip-No Limit/Gearhead tuning, Swamps HVHF IDM, MBRP 4" dual's, Aero, 6" tip's, 4" Revtek lift, 37/12.5/16.5 MT's
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post #9 of 10 Old 08-15-2013, 12:13 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by timmyboy76 View Post
RockAuto...#679005 / $180.00...More Information for DORMAN 679005
From what I've understood, the bellowed up-pipes don't bolt to the factory wye connector on the turbo. So the whole mess needs to be removed in order to install the new wye. That was my understanding, anyway.

In any case, I needed it done, then, and couldn't wait for additional parts to be delivered.
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post #10 of 10 Old 08-15-2013, 12:51 PM
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new bellowed up pipes come with a new y pipe. its the hole shibang

99.5 f250 7.3 4x4 255k
PHP Phoenix, S&B, 4" Diamond Eye, Hpx, Stancor, RR Billet Wheel, RR AIH Delete, Autometer Gauges, Pro Comp leveled, Transgo Tugger, Billet TQ Converter, Warn Hubs, Int'l Up-Pipes, RR IC-Boots, Non-Ebpv Pedestal, High Flow Outlet, Hucorey's HPOP Lines, RR High Flow Fuel Fittings, RR OCR, Barder 360 Thrust Kit, 08 Tow Mirrors.

Dad-2000 7.3 108k miles, Autometer Gauges, Superchips 1705, RR AIH Delete, 6637, 4" Diamond Eye, BD Billet Wheel, TruCool Max
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