Gauge Problem

[redstroker_2002]

So i bought a pod from and i got everything hooked up and at first only 2 of the lights worked and and the pyro was stuck on 14. i rewired the thing simple and easy to work with. now all the lights work and the gauge now has power and returned to zero. So i thought the gauge would work nice and dandy but now it doesnt move up. so i dont know weather or not its broke or what. i looked at his wiring and he had power going to the gauge threw the ground and had power at the red so he had power hooked up to both ends. i dont know weather or not this fried it or what. so now i am stuck with a gauge that isnt working and i dont know weather it is fixable or not???? HELP GUYS!

[redstroker_2002]

bumpin up.... need serious help can i fix this or what???

[redstroker_2002]

come on guys!! i need emergency help here

[sevenmalards]

Originally Posted by redstroker_2002

i should of just bought new and not had this cluster f uck!!!! HELP GUYS!

Gee what do you think by now

How did you not see that the wiring was wrong before you hooked it up?
Are they manual, or digital gauges?
If there was power to both sides, it is more than likely fried, and a waste of money. If they came pre-wired try to get your dough back.

[redstroker_2002]

here is a example... he would hook up three conectors that i used one for. so he had contectors everywhere and he hooked the supposeably ground up to the power for a different bulb. so it was a messed i used a total of 3 contectors to wire the whole system compared to his 9 contectors that didnt even make a circut. i will make him replace it. this pisses me off. they sure are nice gauges but somones stupidity got to them i guess... but anyways i will try to get a hold of him and tell him that it needs replaced. they are manual boost and trans but the pyro needs electric to move the needle. and when i hooked it up to correct power i got it to move from 14 to 0 so i know it moves but it didnt move after roddin the **** out of the truck tryn to get it warm

[sevenmalards]

Originally Posted by redstroker_2002

here is a example... he would hook up three conectors that i used one for. so he had contectors everywhere and he hooked the supposeably ground up to the power for a different bulb. so it was a messed i used a total of 3 contectors to wire the whole system compared to his 9 contectors that didnt even make a circut. i will make him replace it. this pisses me off. they sure are nice gauges but somones stupidity got to them i guess... but anyways i will try to get a hold of him and tell him that it needs replaced. they are manual boost and trans but the pyro needs electric to move the needle. and when i hooked it up to correct power i got it to move from 14 to 0 so i know it moves but it didnt move after roddin the **** out of the truck tryn to get it warm

If the light bulbs were misswired, I don't think it would hurt anything except maybe blow the bulb. Why does the pyro need power to move, doesn't it have a EGT probe? You should only need power for the backlight, and the probe needs to be drill/tapped into your exhaust manifold. Unless there is an electric one I don't know about, but if so how would you get the heat reading? Are you sure you have all the parts?

[redstroker_2002]

ok so i have the probe in the driver side manifold that runs up to the pod and its marked where it goes. so i put them on and tightened them up and there is a red and black wire running in the gauge for pyro. then there is the light bulb wires that i have all taped in each other so everything turns on at the turn of the switch. so its all a closed circuit but i dont have any idea why the gauge doesnt work. he told me that they where two weeks old!!!

[bigwhite6oh]

have you checked over the wires leading to the temp sender? when the pyro is powered on, it should return to zero to show its getting power, then respond to the rising temp as needed. its like a reset process it goes thru on power up. do the other gauges respond as they should?

[Lord Tauk]

The Electronic EGT gauges need gauge power (for the pointer to move), sender connection, illumination, and ground. The sender connection on the Autometer EGT gauge is 2 wires for the EGT gauge if I can remember right, so you could have those backwards?

Just write those four things down on a piece of paper and check each one of them with confidence.

It it moves to 0, then to me it works. My EGT gauge was passed the maximum reading when it was sent to me, I thought it was broken so I just plugged the power and ground into a molex connector (12v side) in my computer to make sure it went to 0.

[99 Red Stroker]

Are you sure you got the whole kit? I'm installing Isspro's and my kit came with an amp for the pyro and the trans also. Just a thought. I haven't got mine installed yet but it's building HA!!! Good luck.
99 Red Stroker