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Old 04-21-2013, 11:29 PM
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Preping for 238/100's

Working on a deal to get 238/100 Rosewood sticks for my 00. It might not be necessary but I am also planning on installing springs, rods and studs at the same time. Here's what I am planning on using...

ARP studs from Strictly Diesel
Comp Cams 910-16 Valve Spring Set
Smith Brothers Push Rods from Riffraff

Is there anything I should change from this list, also are .015 shims what I need or should I get the .030 shims?
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Old 04-22-2013, 05:10 PM
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Sounds perfect. Not sure on the shims though, hopefully someone else will.


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Old 04-22-2013, 05:34 PM
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if you're gonna hit it that hard, I'd for sure put a Mellings LOPOP and a Fluidampr on it JS.....
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Old 04-22-2013, 09:22 PM
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I am assuming it's the Melling M208 that your talking about. Price isn't bad, most of what I have found is people replacing their stock one at 200k due to it being worn out. I am at 199k so it's probably not a bad idea but do you think a stock pump couldn't feed a SRP-1 sufficiently?

I'm not finding much on the Fluidampr other than a price, what's it's benefit.

Sticking a link to a writeup here so I can find it later.
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Old 04-23-2013, 06:04 AM
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I think a new stock pump would be ok, I do think the Mellings is a bit better...they designed it to run just a bit more pressure, but at higher Volume, which would help keep an SRP 1.1 filled better.

get it here :

http://www.strictlydiesel.com/p-2689...-oil-pump.aspx

the Fluidampr is an improved Vibration Damper, and you can read about them here JS :

The Original Fluidampr

I worked the logging Industry for many years, and all Cummins, Detroit Diesel, and Caterpillar engines manufactured in the last 35-40 years have ALL come with Fluidamprs. the reason they use them is because they work.

the highest Recommendation I can give any part is to put it on MY truck.

there is one on my truck, and I would NOT be without it.

Last edited by OL' OutLaw; 04-23-2013 at 06:32 AM.
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Old 04-24-2013, 11:07 AM
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238/100 with correct turbo and HPOP should be appx 500 hp..I did 510 with mine.. don't forget a trans (if you are stock R4100)
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Old 04-24-2013, 01:21 PM
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Yep, the trans is my suspected weakest point. I had it rebuilt 10k ago with supposedly upgraded parts but the TC came apart recently. I cleaned everything up, didn't find any damage, and installed a BTS VB, PI TC and billet input. Still have no faith in it due to the inexperienced guy I had put it back together.

The turbo will be the second weakest link. I have a 38r with a WW that I still need to install. It will be at it's limit with these sticks. I have a SRP-1 for oil so I should be good there.
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Old 04-24-2013, 01:44 PM
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I'd throw in some ARP rod bolts while your in there.
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Old 04-24-2013, 05:08 PM
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I'm not even sure how to respond to that one Frank. I should check that I have forged rods but with a build date of 12/99 it shouldn't be a issue. I think I will save the bottom end work for my next rig, don't really feel like pulling the block out on this one.
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Old 04-24-2013, 05:18 PM
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If your pulling the heads another hour or so you and can have the the bottom end out. It's all down hill from there, 8 bell housing bolts 4 flex plate bolts and 2 motor mounts and its out. I'd freshen up the bottom end if it was me, but then again you know I've never had a issue spending someone else's money.


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