4" MBRP Turbo Back rattling - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
 
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post #1 of 8 Old 12-29-2007, 09:58 PM Thread Starter
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4" MBRP Turbo Back rattling

I recently installed a 4" MBRP turbo back exhaust and am having a little trouble with the first section of pipe after the downpipe rubbing on a bolt on my transmission crossmember. I've tried to use a prybar and pry it away, but it always comes back to rattling like hell on the bolt. It sounds terrible and I'm afraid that after time it could possibly wear a hole in the pipe. Any advice on something like this?


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post #2 of 8 Old 12-29-2007, 10:01 PM
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loosen all the nuts, move the pipe FURTHER then you want it to be away from the trans xmember.* After that tighten everything up from the front back.You can also wedge something between the Xmember and the pipe while you do this..

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post #3 of 8 Old 12-29-2007, 10:16 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks Maintain....the only thing that would allow it to adjust would probably be right at the turbo itself. I think I'm going to have to loosen up the downpipe and try to rotate it.

I was thinking about stuffing a piece of wood between there until I had time to work on it. I work 12.5 hours shifts and there's really not much time between work/sleep, so that might have to be my temporary fix.


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post #4 of 8 Old 12-30-2007, 08:06 AM
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You wont have no hole in the pipe, it's just annoying.

There isn't much room, if you didn't do this you could have removed that plastic exhaust shield or whatever it is by the oil pan and a little ways back, that'll gain you a good half an inch more clearance, but you'll have to remove the exhaust to get it off.
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post #5 of 8 Old 12-30-2007, 08:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lord Tauk View Post
You wont have no hole in the pipe, it's just annoying.

There isn't much room, if you didn't do this you could have removed that plastic exhaust shield or whatever it is by the oil pan and a little ways back, that'll gain you a good half an inch more clearance, but you'll have to remove the exhaust to get it off.
Or dremel the hell out of it! There isn't much room there and like the other guys have said, move it further than you want it to start with. It really takes two people to get it right sometimes. Lord Tauk had tried to tweak his by himself and couldn't get it right. As soon as you have someone to hold it in place while the other tightens things down, it works like a charm.
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post #6 of 8 Old 12-30-2007, 08:16 AM
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ahh the dreaded 4DP, i heard this is a real booger for True 4'DP...either beat the firewall silly with a mallet or dremel it like Matt said...FBD recommends a 3 1/2 Dp for this reason, but you feel cheated buying a 4TB system when you do that, but oh well.

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post #7 of 8 Old 12-30-2007, 09:25 AM
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4" DP is tight. Before you put the DP in , flare the crap out of the heat shield then put the pipe in. I fought a rattle for around a month until I got it bent enough so it would not rattle cause I did not know to flare the shield first. Now I know.

The 3.5" DP has plenty of room and the trans dip stick is not in the way. Besides, the stock turbo outlet is 2.8" and the high flow outlet is 3.2" so 3.5" should be plenty.


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post #8 of 8 Old 12-30-2007, 02:11 PM Thread Starter
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I didn't know anything about this heat shield either. Time was a little bit of an issue when we were putting it on so this is one of those little things that just got overlooked. I'll just drive it until I can loosen everything up and flare that heat shield some. I think I'm going to try to put a wedge of wood in there until I can.


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Custom Tuned 6 pos chip
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