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  #11  
Old 11-28-2012, 09:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CT Performance, Inc. View Post
Posted this before but here is some info from dale:


The phrase “mounting a tymar” sounds kind of like Tymar is a filter. The filter we use is a Donaldson B085011 and Tymar is a company name. Tymar Performance makes all sorts of items, one of them being the open element intake kits.

That said, the element we use would not fit on the end of a K&N FIPK system. I guess you could technically modify things to get it in, but you wouldn’t have minimal radial clearance around the filter, which should be considered very important to providing low restriction air to the turbo. Without supplying minimal radial clearance, you won’t get the positive benefits the open element system should create.


You may want to consider replacing the PVC with 4" OD metal tube once the fit is figured out. The ID of the PVC can compromise volume and we found that it made a difference with the stock turbo, so I am sure it would make a difference with the H2. The other complication we ran into using PVC or ABS was that the connections had an ugly habit of popping off. Didn't happen too often, but once is all it would take in the right conditions.

The AIS will provide excellent filtration efficiency, but will not improve overall restriction or allow much additional air flow in the configuration that Ford uses. The Tymar Intake will provide excellent filtration efficiency as well as decrease restriction to the turbo and add significant air flow.

quote:
“Tymar is going to give you better flow but AIS is going to give you unmatched filtration…the AIS plus it will last a LONG time, like 60K miles…”

Although the AIS will give better filtration efficiency, you are only talking about 1/10 of a percent over the filter Tymar Performance Intakes use at initial filtration efficiencies. Not enough of a difference to really differentiate between the two.

For the longevity, you have to start talking about restriction ranges in both stock and aftermarket applications and how dirt will affect them. AIS has a larger capacity, but not across the restriction ranges once installed on the truck. Because of the configuration you are not lowering restriction significant over stock levels, but you are receiving better filtration compared to the stock intake.

The Tymar Intake will allow lower restriction levels and lasts approximately 15K miles in a restriction range LOWER than stock. If you want to go with longevity of filter, you can continue using the same filter and will simply not experience the positive benefits of lower than stock restriction levels.

We supplied the intake systems for Granite Construction and used them as a severe duty use test. They were rebuilding Power Stroke engines at approximately 60K miles because of the fine silt in the mining beds. After changing to our system they were using the same filters with 28K mile change out intervals and only experiencing 32”h2o of restriction (yellow on your stock restriction gauges) and they eliminated the necessity of engine rebuilds and were selling the used trucks with over 180K miles on them.

quote:
“I'm using a tymar because it's cheap to setup and offers good filtration.”

Although I agree with you, your listed intake is a DIY 6637, which is neither a Tymar nor a recommended system by us. The WIX/NAPA 6637 is not a hydrophobic (water resistant) element and using it as an open element should be avoided. There are other concerns such as providing minimal radial clearance, isolating engine vibration, positioning away from rain drip channel, etc. But, I just wanted to draw a clear difference between copies, DIY efforts, and our product.

quote:
“…be sure your Tymar-type filter includes the PowerCore filter media and not some lesser media material.”

Although the PowerCore ® media is far superior to most other media, there is not a PowerCore media filter available for use as an open element. They are inserts for intake boxes and are not configure for use as filter alone applications.

The filter media is not the main attraction, but the filter configuration. It is NOT true that you cannot get the same filtration efficiencies or flow rates from other Donaldson products. It will just simply have to be larger. The PowerCore configuration allows for compact applications that have flow rates and filtration efficiencies of filters much larger. So it is the compactness of the element and not that the media processes some magical qualities.

quote:
“IMO, the FIPK tube with the heat shield and the Donaldson (aka #6637) filter combination is hard to beat for the money.”


I would probably respectfully disagree. The problem is the thickness of the stacked gauze media will not allow for a high pleat count and severely restricts the available surface area. A typical RD-1460 that is used in a FIPK system only has about 44 pleats. The Donaldson we use is not only a larger filter overall, but the thinner media allows for 202 pleats, leaving us over 5 times the surface area to pull from. This is why we can outflow and out filter a re-usable element as long as minimum radial clearance is maintained.

The problem with heat shields and routing air through intake boxes is that whenever you direct air flow, you increase restriction. Low restriction is the goal, so using a filter that has the ability to flow large masses of air and then enclosing it in a box yields very poor results. Heat shields do literally nothing. Air flow under the hood is dynamic and not static. It is moving all the time. Hot air will move right around a heat shield at the same temperature and be ingested and the only thing you have caused is turbulence.

Aside from impeding minimal radial clearance and isolation of engine vibration, a serious cause for concern is placing the filter, especially a 6637 element, under a rain drip channel for the hood. Beyond the ambient moisture that will cause restriction as it is absorbed into the non-hydrophobic media, you will be directing water towards the filter anytime the rain drip channel flows more rain than it can hold or spills over the retainer during left turns.

I’ll try to check back in and address further comments in the days to come and can hopefully shed some light on why we do what we do using the configuration we did.

Peace to all, enjoy those rigs!
__________________
Hydroscopic means it absorbs water. Hydrophobic is water resistant. Easy to remember because "phobic" comes from phobia, meaning to be scared of or to repel.

Anyway, both of those filters are hydrophobic. The 085046 filter is for high humidity applications. This has little to do with the hydrophobic capabilities and deals with micro biotic growth since constant high humidity, think of boats that are always in the water moored to a dock, will have greater abilities for mold and such to develop on them.

It should be noted that the 085046 filter is a LOT more expensive and there is no air flow or hydrophobic benefit over the 085011.
WOW! Thank you, this is the kind of info I was looking for. now with that said I really should take more time to absorb this info but my first response and I am sure it will change ( that is why I am asking for info) is:
I do understand air flow to a point, I understand #1 have to have clear/smooth air to the out side of the filter.
#2 you have to bring the air from inside the filter to the inlet of the turbo as smooth as possible. I am moving my battery so I will have all that room there so I will make a "system" to hold the filter/filters that will have all the steady/ smooth air ( as much as possible). as far as the air out of the filters to the turbo, it will be as smooth and turbulent free as possible. I will be using 316th SS steel and from what ever outlet size of the filter set up(4"?) down to the 3" or what ever the ID of the new turbo I get. There for there will be as little turbulence as possible. Now if I can use a flat filter and make a box type system ( 4 flat filters) and could get good air flow that may be better??
Thank you again for the info! Like I said before I am thinking out side the box and I am not an engineer ( well I do not have the paper to say I am) but I have had a lot of time working with air and water flow.
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  #12  
Old 11-28-2012, 10:18 AM
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IMO big waste of time..just do a Tymar or a correctly done DIY..what your proposing just won't make a difference and VERY likely will be worce.
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  #13  
Old 11-28-2012, 10:31 AM
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Originally Posted by CT Performance, Inc. View Post
IMO big waste of time..just do a Tymar or a correctly done DIY..what your proposing just won't make a difference and VERY likely will be worce.
You may be correct about what I am thinking being a big waste of time, but if there were no one out there thinking out side the box to maybe make something a little better then we would not have any after market parts to make our trucks run better......and you would not have a job.
I can and ready have the DIY setup that most have but I was only trying to make it a little better.
Thank you again for your info.
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  #14  
Old 11-28-2012, 01:38 PM
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Originally Posted by docweld View Post
Yes it is, I ordered it late 99. I think it looks good, and yes it is a 8' bed, everyone tells me it looks like a short bed.


That is my thought also, that is why I was asking of more input. do you think 2X air (850CFM) would be better for the turbo or the 425CFM is all it needs?
There are no words in the English language that could begin to describe my love for single cab duallys, let alone a 6 speed 7.3.
Awesome truck man.
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  #15  
Old 11-28-2012, 01:52 PM
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Missing the point or I'm not doing a good job at explaning..both ways will flow the same air its the static pressure level thats higher on 1 vrs 2 at a givin air flow.

Why I'm saying Boxing a filter isn't going to work well is it then makes more static pressure to move the same air as a Donaldson filter non boxed would have.

Others have already tried making fresh air boxes..removing battries etc...nothing new.

Just a FYI but Bean a long time ago had a motor on his dyno with a FILTHY Tymar Donaldson filter..put down if I remember correctly 403 HP..removed the filter and ran without any filter...made the same HP

These filters can hold over 1 lb of dust and still flow rated air.
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  #16  
Old 11-28-2012, 02:38 PM
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Originally Posted by 03machstock View Post
There are no words in the English language that could begin to describe my love for single cab duallys, let alone a 6 speed 7.3.
Awesome truck man.
thanks, I love my truck!! with only 78,xxx miles on it, it is time for me to make it run as good as it looks with custom work under the hood....bad a$$ I hope I have the $ to do it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by CT Performance, Inc. View Post
Missing the point or I'm not doing a good job at explaning..both ways will flow the same air its the static pressure level thats higher on 1 vrs 2 at a givin air flow.
this may be it, your last post was just buy a system.

Why I'm saying Boxing a filter isn't going to work well is it then makes more static pressure to move the same air as a Donaldson filter non boxed would have.
that I did not know that is why I am asking

Others have already tried making fresh air boxes..removing battries etc...nothing new.
this are the people that have tried and your self that I am looking for info on it. every where I have looked or asked just tell me to buy a ststem and not why I should not make one.

Just a FYI but Bean a long time ago had a motor on his dyno with a FILTHY Tymar Donaldson filter..put down if I remember correctly 403 HP..removed the filter and ran without any filter...made the same HP
that is real good info so it tells me that 850 CFM would be the same for the turbo as 424CFM.
These filters can hold over 1 lb of dust and still flow rated air.
thank you again, I am not one to just stop when someone just tells me to buy something.
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  #17  
Old 11-28-2012, 02:51 PM
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I'm sorry...I'm a 2 fingered typer and so I just don't elaborate like I should..rather talk on the phone so any time you have a question just PM me your # and I'll call.

I belive everyone on the forum will back me up when I say I want to make sure members get whats needed not what makes myself or others $ and I'll take all the time they need trying to help them do so. If they buy from me thats a plus.
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  #18  
Old 11-28-2012, 03:01 PM
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Originally Posted by CT Performance, Inc. View Post
I'm sorry...I'm a 2 fingered typer and so I just don't elaborate like I should..rather talk on the phone so any time you have a question just PM me your # and I'll call.

I belive everyone on the forum will back me up when I say I want to make sure members get whats needed not what makes myself or others $ and I'll take all the time they need trying to help them do so. If they buy from me thats a plus.
Thank you, I have talked to you before about what turbo and other mods I should do and was very happy with the info you gave me. I will give you a call about this so you can help me with what I think could work but may not. all info is learning and one can never learn enough!!!
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  #19  
Old 11-28-2012, 05:11 PM
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Originally Posted by CT Performance, Inc. View Post

“Tymar is going to give you better flow but AIS is going to give you unmatched filtration…the AIS plus it will last a LONG time, like 60K miles…”
thank you for this post. this is why I went this way. if I were pulling or racing my truck in some way, I would have gone with the tymar. my uses are much more simple however, towing a trailer maybe a half dozen times a year and some occasional running around town. come to think of it, the only time I get to actually push the throttle down is when getting on the freeway. with all the power my rig already has, I don't get to do that much. in fact last weekend I got to drive it for about 3 hours total mostly highway time. the whole time I got maybe one minute WOT time, the rest was at about 5 to 10 percent throttle according to my torque app. anyway which do you think is better for your daily driver?


filters by bmonkey36, on Flickr

I actually noticed a huge difference in the amount of smoke on WOT after the change. go figure...

SM
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  #20  
Old 11-29-2012, 07:43 AM
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Originally Posted by CT Performance, Inc. View Post
I'm sorry...I'm a 2 fingered typer and so I just don't elaborate like I should..rather talk on the phone so any time you have a question just PM me your # and I'll call.

I belive everyone on the forum will back me up when I say I want to make sure members get whats needed not what makes myself or others $ and I'll take all the time they need trying to help them do so. If they buy from me thats a plus.
I just called and left a message with my phone#. thanks
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