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Old 06-14-2012, 03:38 PM
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Alright so back from deployment and have some money that i can blow on the truck so i ordered the Dieselsite 203* thermostat and housing, Adrenaline HPOP, Turbomaster, Air Dog 2 and i already had the Mishimoto intercooler and intercooler boots sitting around from Riff Raff Diesel. Also i have the Gear Vendors Over/Underdrive sitting in my living room right now.
First thing i did was the Turbomaster, install isnt too bad on it, it can be done with it in the truck but it will be difficult if you have big hands, i wear a XXL glove for instance. I would definitly reccomend installing it with the turbo out if you were changing turbos or doing maintenance. I also cant say enough the difference that this thing makes. I was able to drive around with just this on before i ripped into the truck for everything else and the difference is incredible. I actually cant even stomp the throttle on my hot tune anymore with my clutch, i have to upgrade the clutch now. It is an impressive upgrade.

Here is a shot of the Turbomaster installed.

Next up was the thermostat and housing, i didnt snap a photo of that. The thing is pretty self explanatory. But just from a bit of bad luck when i went to remove the thermostat housing and one of the bolts snapped and ive broken one drill bit trying to remove it and i cant get any left handed drill bits to drill in and pull it out so today i got a couple of cobalt drill bits hoping that they can drill through it, well see tomorrow.

After that was the intercooler. Now repair manuals tell you that you have to pull the fan and fan clutch to get the radiator out, not true. Just disconnect the fan shroud and push it up over your fan and you can slip the radiator out.

New vs Old.




As you can see from the photos there is plenty of room to take the intercooler out behind the radiator, but if you have an aftermarket air cleaner chances are you wont be able to fit the intercooler out with the air cleaner in. I tried for a few minutes and then took the air cleaner and battery box out and sure enough the intercooler slid right out.



New boots, they hold tight as hell but as soon as you get those suckers on you better hope they are on right, pulling them back off is a real pain.

Now im on to the HPOP i pulled the resevoir off the other day now i need to get the fuel bowl, lines and pull the HPOP itslef off then were in business.
After that is the Air Dog which doesnt look too bad, little bit of wiring, running some fuel lines and mounting the actual system.
The Gear Vendors unit doest look too bad overall the wiring doest look too complex and neither does the mechanism itself. Once i get it mounted up i will post up the length of my driveshaft for anyone else thinking about the same. Ill post up more pictures and whatnot once i get working on it again tomorrow. Hopefully ill be done by monday and ill just have to wait on the driveshaft.
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Old 06-14-2012, 04:36 PM
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That is awesome thank you for the pics and write up. Would love to see how GV under/over works out for you thinking about it for my truck
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Old 06-14-2012, 08:05 PM
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Now that it's a bit too late, you can pull the intercooler with the radiator in place if you remove the few bolts holding the brace above it. It also cleared my AFE box.
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Old 06-16-2012, 06:25 PM
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ok, i got the fuel bowl pulled off and installed the Adrenaline. For those of you who have never changed out your HPOP before like me, the IPR is on the backside of you HPOP, i was searching for it on the front for a few minutes. Also it will make things easier for you if you unhook this sensor that is attached to the gear cover for the HPOP.

I tried to get the wrench in there without taking that thing off, but it doesnt take long and it gives you all the space that you need.

Just a side note but if your truck sits outside all the time like mine does it might be worth cleaning out your engine valley out if you dig in this far.
Before

After


And heres the Adrenaline swapped in with the fuel bowl hooked back up


After that i started getting into the Air Dog. Pretty straight forward setup, the support bracket sandwhiches the fram and you just bolt it in according to height. Along with setting up the the carrier for the Air Dog itself. You just select the height you want to use and go for it. I set mine up on the opposite the transfer case on the outside of the frame rail.

Bracket in place


Air Dog in place

Now when it comes to putting the fittings in the Air Dog they have very close tolerances and took me a minute to figure out but you have to turn the larger fitting, on the side that has the fuel to the engine and the return line, so that its flat side is facing the smaller fitting so you can turn the small one.


High pressure line and return line

Here is what the Air Dog looks like from outside the truck, it pokes out a little.


Now with the wiring it comes with the wires for the low pressure sensor and the light for the low pressure sensor, but the system for my truck doesnt include it so it says to just isolate the wires. I wrapped them individually with electrical tape and then together and ill just zip tie them out of the way when it comes to tieing it all up.
Before


After


Alright so then comes the plumbing for all of this. It comes with 3 hoses, 1 from the tank to the air dog, 1 from the air dog to the stock fuel line that you take out of the pump and 1 from the air dog to the return set up in the fuel filler neck.

This is the return setup they give you to splice into the stock fuel filler.
Easiest way to get this thing on is to disconnect the hoses from the tank and pull the whole thing off, my hoses are dryrotted and stuck on so only one hose came off but whatever, its working.

I took the hose from the air dog and ran it up over the chasis and down next to the e-brake cable, its too big to stuff back into the chasis like the stock line.


The line that connects to the stock high pressure line is way too long but the kit includes splices so ill shorten that later.

And here is the gear vendors setup that i have started on but its taking a while. Right now i jus have to get the tailshaft housing off the t-case and ill be good to go but that thing is stuck on there pretty good.

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Old 06-16-2012, 06:37 PM
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JSchuricht - I wish i had figured that out earlier haha. I tried getting it past my AFE box but i could not get it passed i tried pushing it out of the way and just yanking it by but it never worked for me
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Old 06-17-2012, 07:20 AM
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lots of parts i wouldn't install but hey its deployment money
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Old 06-26-2012, 09:07 PM
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The transfer case my truck has is the NP273, the one with the shift on the fly switch on the dash, and it is a PITA to get it off. But after a lot of spray chemicals and prying i got a torch and torched it for about 20-30 minutes and then took the pry bar to it and then it popped off. You just have to heat it up all the way around it really good and then pry real hard and itll come off. From there the Gear Vendors install is very simple mechanically, the wiring isnt too bad just a little annoying. As long as you can use a multimeter and read a wiring diagram youll be fine. The install can be done by anyone, not nearly as daunting a task as i first thought it would be.


The first part of the Gear Vendors unit is a new tailshaft housing then you attach the adapter piece that connects to the tailshaft housing and the tailshaft from the transfer case slides into one side of it and the input shaft of the Gear Vendors unit slides into the other end of it.



Then you slide the Gear Vendors unit on and tighten it down and your set. And for anyone else that has a crew cab short bed with the ZF6 tranny and the NP273 my new driveshaft length was 54 1/2".

The wiring is fairly easy. You just plug the ends into the master unit. You have a master control switch, then you have the switch that actually shifts the unit, a speed sensor tap that also has a ground, the leads to the Gear Vendors unit itself and a 4x4 lockout switch.




The switch on the bottom is the master control and the one on top is the one that shifts the unit.

For the power I tapped it into the fuse for the radio seemed like the best option available. But other than that everything is done! Ive been running around with all this done for a couple days and the Gear Vendors unit is amazing, the truck runs quieter, with the hpop and the intercooler the EGT's drop quick the hpop is quieter than stock and the truck drives around town better. The lower RPM range is much easier to drive on and i feel more power now throughout the RPM range.
Overall i think everything was worth the time and money.
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  #8  
Old 04-17-2013, 10:46 AM
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Thats an awsome write up :-), I've been wanting to do the hpop and gear vendor od, any mpgs? Also, I notice you have a 38r. Did you get new tunes for the dp after install, and did it help get more out of the 38r? Power? I know i know, im a year late on this, but figured id give it a bump, once again, great write up
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Old 04-17-2013, 12:15 PM
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How do your cruising rpms look with the GV OD
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  #10  
Old 04-17-2013, 03:16 PM
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in for EGT's and rpm range while driving.
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