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  #1  
Old 04-08-2012, 11:35 PM
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Head Studs/Valve Springs

I think it is almost time to pull the trigger on the last of the upgrades for some hybrids and I have a few questions. I plan on doing head studs, valve springs and push rods (Amongst a few other things). What I would like to know is...

Head studs get torqued down to a value higher than the stock bolts right? If so, what is the proper torque on heads studs?

Also, I have been looking at the Comp 910 springs (92lbs at factory height)and planning on them for awhile, but then I saw the ones on Swamp's site that are supposed to be 99lbs at factory installed height and it got me second guessing. If you have specific recommendations on this then I am all ears. If not....those of you around 500hp or running 238cc hybrids w 80% or 100% nozzles, especially with a 38R, how much boost are you seeing? I know boost isn't necessarily going to be the same for everyone, just trying to get an idea.

Thanks!
-Aaron

Last edited by GreenF350; 05-03-2012 at 04:16 PM.
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Old 04-09-2012, 09:48 AM
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I have 250's over 80% w/ a 38R running Gearhead tunes and in my hot tune I push about 30-35lbs.
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Old 04-09-2012, 03:12 PM
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Wow...I would have thought the boost numbers would have been higher. I get about 28-30 with mine on stock injectors. I know more boost isn't necessarily more power, but I was worried I might be pushing the 40psi "limit" advertised by Garrett. Sounds like I may be safer there than I thought.

Anyone else have any info on torque specs or valve springs?

-Aaron
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Old 04-10-2012, 06:38 PM
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One more question and a bump up....

I have been planning on ARP studs since I am familiar with them from my gasoline engine days, but I see the H11 head studs are more expensive. Is this a case of "you get what you pay for, or does it really matter? This is a job I would prefer to do once.
-Aaron
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Old 04-10-2012, 06:54 PM
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with those injectors the arp's will be fine, hell stock would prolly do fine, but for peace of mind arp's will work. h11's are stronger but the arp's are plenty strong. when i was runnin a 38r with 160/100 467 horse i was makin like 37-38 with slight up pipe leaks, now i make like 36-38 with the s366. the comp 910 is what everyone runs, 130ish lbs of seat pressure which can be achieve with a spring height of 1.75 inches which would require .15 inches of shimming since out of the box they are 1.9 inches tall
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Old 04-10-2012, 07:07 PM
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Ok...Sounds good. I know the head studs are probably a bit more than I need right now, but I try and err on the side of caution as I want/need it to be as reliable as possible. I don't really want to have to pull the heads later to fix a blown HG. I'm not real familiar with what all needs done/checked when shimming for valve springs but I'm sure I can figure it out...just might require another thread or some searching on here. 910's it is.

Boost numbers sounds pretty good. Was that with the 1.0 wastegated turbine housing or a 1.15? Also, since we are kind fo on the topic....do you know what your backpressure was with that setup?
-Aaron
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Old 04-10-2012, 07:10 PM
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that was with a 1.0 gated, bp was over 50 iirc, been a while since i ran a 38r. and to do a proper valve spring install you really need a spring height micrometer
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Old 04-10-2012, 07:16 PM
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Easy enough....The concept seems simple enough and I know of the tool mentioned, just never done it. I think I can handle it, it just might take a bit longer than the average job. I may be getting too hung up on backpressure, but I hope the 1.15 non w/g housing I have on there now is ok. I do have a way to measure backpressure so....guess time will tell. I could always put an external on I suppose if I need to. Nothing is ever as simple as it seems...Lol
-Aaron
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Old 04-15-2012, 11:21 PM
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Ok, since it is along the same lines I will just continue with another question in this thread....What is the factory lift at the valve or do I need to worry about coil bind at .15" shimmed 912's. Also, how much variation is everyone seeing with stock head as far as seat height goes? Basically what I am asking is....should I be checking for installed height pressure, coil bind and each individual seat height (to know exactly how much to shim it) or can I just throw the springs in with .15" worth of shims and call it a day. It seems like a pain to go through each seat and check the installed height and then shim accordingly since I am going it with the heads installed, but if it is needed then.....it will get done.

I guess it wouldn't take that much effort to measure this stuff when it is apart, but I have a bit of time to kill before I can tear it apart and keep going over stuff in my head trying to formulate a plan and order of install since it all needs done on the weekends so I can drive to work during the week.
-Aaron
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Old 04-16-2012, 12:28 AM
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Never played with these but when i built gassers we checked every spring height and shimmed accordingly. This was for 8000 rpm small blocks though but no boost pressure.

Bruce will straighten ya out though!
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