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Old 04-02-2012, 07:44 AM
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Install and Review (chip, intake, turbo upgrade)

Hey guys, I just finished helping my friend install some parts on his 00 F350 6spd. The truck was stock except for a 4" turbo back exhaust.

6-position chip, ATS compressor housing and wheel, AFE intake, All from XDP.

As far as the physical installation went:
Compressor Wheel. The hardest thing to do was the compressor wheel. The old one came off hard. We had to use the impact the whole way. We tried running a die over the shaft to clean up the threads (1/4 28) but couldn't hold the shaft. We didn't feel like taking the welded exhaust down to get a wrench on the exhaust side. The new wheel would only turn on the shaft about 1/2 turn and then get tight. We couldn't tap the wheel because the tap didn't want to start and we didn't want to mess it up any more than it already was. Finally we just hit it with the impact A Lot of times until it went on far enough. The stupid nut was improperly sized so the socket was so loose that the nut was almost totally rounded off by the time it was on far enough. We could still push the shaft back and forth enough to make it drag. There was however a sweet spot that it seemed to stay at so we fired the truck and it was fine. Hopefully its on far enough.

The ATS Compressor housing. They managed to get the outlet at enough of a different angle that we couldn't line it up with stock cast snakes nest. We figured out that the stock piece was hitting the intake inside the passenger side silicone connector and preventing us from misaligning it with the intake enough to get it lined up with the compressor housing. We removed the factory cast aluminum snakes nest and ground 1/4" off on the passenger side outlet tube. This enabled us to actually install the V-band clamp. Thankfully the silicone boots were stretchy enough that they still sealed and stayed on when we tightened the clamps.

AFE Intake. This was the best fitting piece we installed. We had no issues and the fit and finish was nice. The design made a nice improvement on the cleanliness of the engine compartment by eliminating all the stock air ducting. The filter was huge and the battery hold down was strong. They could have a better design for the IAT sensor. They just supply a grommet that you push the sensor into. It doesn't use the positive twist to lock in place factory method.

The chip. We didn't have any issues installing this either. They could have provided some type of backing plate for the switch to tell you what position you were in. We did cut out the back of the plastic ECU holder to give the wire some more room. It was a pain getting all the silicone off the pins. I can see why people have problems with it. The best solution I found was soaking it in nail polish remover and then scraping it off with my finger nail. The scotch bright seemed to take the coating off to quickly while still leaving some silicone.

Over All Impression. I have to say that I was not impressed. I drive an 04.5 315hp stock cummins 6spd. This truck still seems snappier and torquier than the 7.3. The 7.3 is much better than stock that is for sure. We were running a 10k mod and I was expecting a much bigger improvement. The turbo still doesn't lite much below 2k and the thing is out of fuel by 2800. The turbo whistles like crazy now. It doesn't matter if you are in the fuel or not, it whistles loudly All The Time! This guy previously owned an 05 6.0 with a Hypertech and holy cow that thing was fast. This truck is still a dog, even compared to my cummins. It may be a little faster in a race but the power band is so narrow it would be harder to drive. Over all I would say it was not worth the $1k he spent on the stuff. It might be worth half that. It did start slipping the clutch towards the end of our test drive.

Hope this helps someone! Thanks
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Old 04-02-2012, 08:26 AM
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What tunes do you have on the chip? Tuner?

Boost and egt gauges? Do you know for sure that the boost is building properly?
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Old 04-02-2012, 09:46 AM
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I'm not sure what all tunes he has. A few of them are 40, 80, 120 and 140 Extreme. The 140 is where we were running the truck. I'll try to ask him more details about the chip.

Boost will shoot quickly to 22psi when floored above 1800RPM, much much faster than stock. With the 10k mod it was lucky to make it that far after a WOT run in 4th to 5th. The red line is re-connected. I emailed him today to about seeing what happens when it is removed. I'm not sure if he will mess with it or not.

EGT's I was able to get it to 1500 once. I started from like 1200 RPM up a hill in 4th. It will easily hit 1300 at the top of almost any gear.

I've never ridden in any other modified 7.3's so I have no idea how it should run. If any one has any opinions please say so . I'm wandering if he isn't running out of fuel. It really seems flat up top. I never even ran it to 3k RPM, it was out of power.
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Old 04-02-2012, 10:36 AM
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Your most likely running out of high pressure oil, it's what actuates the injectors. You won't run out of fuel with just a chip. I upgraded mine and it pulls all way, through every gear. Instead of that plateau affect. It was probably my second favorite upgrade after the chip. Also, you typically lose boost when you run a ats housing and wicked wheel. But sounds like it spooling well.

So I would recommend a t500 hpop and it should fix your problem. But you can also check your pressures before spending the money.


Sent from my iPhone
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Old 04-02-2012, 12:02 PM
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It looks like XDP sells BullyDog or TS tunes in the 6 position programmer. Those may not be the best tunes out there for the 7.3. Before jumping into the hpop it may be worth a try with PHP tunes on the chip. Or a couple of the other tunes that the group has had good luck with. Just an idea. I switched from an older BD/Superchips unit to the PHP Phoenix with 6 tunes have kicked myself for not changing sooner. Standard mods...exhaust, intake, trans built. 00/350 DRW
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Old 04-03-2012, 04:15 AM
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I talked to him last night. He said its a TS chip. He didn't get it from XDP like I thought. I think he said it was Power Hungry. He went through the Q&A of the modifications he has on the truck. At this point through, hes not going to be looking for any more power. The clutch has started to slip pretty easily on the higher settings. I think he might play with the waste gate to try to get some more air to it to help keep EGT's down through.
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Old 04-03-2012, 09:44 PM
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Yeah...not spooling good until 2000rpm seems way late to me. Shoot, my GT38R with a 1.15 A/R turbine housing spools up better than that. Mine is an automatic, but really shouldn't matter. I also second the HPOP running out of steam up top. Mine does the same thing. Fuel should be good to way past just chip levels.
-Aaron
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Old 04-03-2012, 10:36 PM
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I am a little concerned at your attempt to install the compressor wheel.

Did you say that it WILL rub the housing the way it is right now?
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Old 04-04-2012, 06:03 AM
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HAHA, Yeah I'm concerned about the wheel too. Yes, If you pull the shaft it will rub on the comp side and if you push it the exhaust will rub. There is side to side play if you put some force on the shaft but when you just spin it and push around on it lightly it stays in place, no up and down play and it will stay centered and not rub. We fired the truck up and listened for any noise of the wheels dragging. It sounded good. Like I said, the threads were so crappy on the wheel that it barely went on and the nut is almost rounded off from hitting it so many times with the impact....

It doesn't seem to be rubbing under normal conditions, but you can make it rub. I don't know how much play there is in new turbos. I don't know how they should feel knew and how they feel when worn.
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Old 04-04-2012, 10:09 AM
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I can assure you that neither wheel should be able to touch the housing even when pushing/pulling on it

Sounds like the turbo needs rebuilt. The thrust bearing is probably shot.
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