DIY regulated return build! - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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post #1 of 54 Old 02-07-2012, 08:10 PM Thread Starter
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DIY regulated return build!

As promised here's a write up for the RR I built. I didn't go with the stainless steel braided crimped lines due to lack of money..

Parts needed:
1- 3/8" barb tee
1- 1/4" barb tee
2- 1/8" mpt - 1/4" barb
1- 1/8" mpt - 3/8" barb
1- 1/8" fpt - 1/4" barb
2- 1/4" fpt - 3/8" barb
1- 1/4" mpt - 3/8" compression
approximately 5 ft of 3/8" ID and 1/4" ID diesel rated fuel line
Plenty of stainless steel hose clamps

Fuel bowl delete parts:
All from NAPA
2- filter base part #4770
1- water/fuel separater (sp? Lol) part #3405
1- fuel filter part #3528

Regulator:
0-150 psi adjustable fuel pressure regulator
Fuel lab makes a great regulator, but others can be found..
As far as the gauge, I strongly recommend a liquid filled, or an electric in-cab fuel pressure gauge. Ask me how I know..

I utilized the stock return and feed line also one stock hard line due to the fact of it being a PITA to reach the back of the head next to turbo and down pipe.

Removing the fuel bowl is fairly easy, first hook up a piece of 3/8" hose to the drain line.. easiest way to get to it is through the passenger side wheel well. Open the yellow valve on the back of the fuel and let it drain. Then disconnect all the fuel lines, and drain line. There's 2 bolts on the front of the oil reservoir that hold the fuel bowl on..


My work area



You can see what all I had to remove to get to the fuel bowl and fuel lines. You don't have to take out the hpop but I had to to do some work on it too.. You'll remove the line that runs from the passenger side of the fuel into the driver side head..



There's 2 plugs that need to removed, 1 is on the front passenger head, the other is at the back of the driver side head..



I forgot to take a pic before I put the hose on to check for clearance. I used the 1/8" mpt - 1/4" barb here.



Same with the driver side head. These were used for my return..



I used the 1/8" mpt - 3/8" barb fitting for the back driver side head. This will be used for a feed. Just a fore-warning, this is a PITA to reach.. I'm 6' with long arms, and still had trouble reaching.. but then again you see the height of the truck i'm working with. lol.



Happened to have some fire-retardant, high heat resistant material to wrap my fuel line since it ended up running behind the turbo pedestal. I would recommend using a 1/8" brass 45* or street 90 to reroute the line if you don't have a shield like this..



Since I was tying back into the stock lines, I reused the compression fitting coming off the fuel bowl.. DO NOT reuse the rubber seal on the line, they'll disintegrate the moment undone.. You can order a new set from here --> Replacement O-rings for Ford Diesel Engines



you'll use one 1/4" fpt - 1/4" on the 3/8" compression fitting.. this will go into your factory return line.





This is the factory feed line i was talking about reusing that runs to the back passenger side head. It's next to impossible to get to without taking off the downpipe..

I forgot to take a pic of the lines running into the tee.. I ran my feed to the back heads to a 3/8" barb tee towards the front, and tied my factory line into it..




This is the regulator i used. Take it from my experience. GET A LIQUID FILLED OR IN-CAB GAUGE! I blew the gauge out within an hour of gettin' her running...

Once again forgot to take a pic, but I ran my return line from the front of the heads into a 1/4" barb tee.. from the tee into my regulator, then from the regulator into the factory return line.. If you pick up a regulator with 2 inlets and one outlet, you'll eliminate the barb tee..

Now since I did the fuel bowl delete, I had to add in new filters.. I've heard nothing but good things about the NAPA filters, so thats what I went with.



All your plumbing and mounting is going to depend on how drastic you want to get with the setup. I did a little rerouting and mounted my filters on the outside of the frame, almost right underneath the rocker panel.. You can't see them from outside the truck unless you're down looking for them, and they don't hang down any lower than some of the other parts on your truck..


My finished setup before adding the plastic powerstroke cover.


And after!

I got the pressure set at 65 psi and it smoothed out the idle, and quieted down the cackle a lot! It also evened out everything throughout the entire rpm range.. set the pressure a little higher, you'll roll a bit of coal but thats really about the only difference..

Any questions, just ask! I'm also open to any suggestions on making this easier..

Cody Ryan
03 f250 ccsb fx4 7.3
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4" RC lift
35x12.50 federals on 20x12 rockstars
6637 intake, straight pipe
full RR w/ fuel bowl delete.
rebuild coming soon
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post #2 of 54 Old 02-07-2012, 08:50 PM
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How much money do you have in it? Any difference in power?

Tom
2001 F250 7.3 auto 4x4 Lariat CCSB
6637 intake
4" MBRP exhaust
PHP tunes
Foil delete
EBPV delete
ISSPRO Boost, Pyro, and Trans Gauges
Strictly Diesel Pre-Pump Filter/In-Tank Kit
Strictly Diesel Regulated Return and Fuel Bowl Delete
High Flow Banjo Bolts
Nitto AT's 305/70R16
2009 Pontiac G8 GT
Intake, Exhaust, Tune
Camaro 20's, Camaro SS Brembo's
1997 VDub Passat GLX VR6

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post #3 of 54 Old 02-07-2012, 08:54 PM Thread Starter
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Roughly $175. Biggest expense was the filters and bases. All depends on the brand/type of regulator and gauge.

Cody Ryan
03 f250 ccsb fx4 7.3
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35x12.50 federals on 20x12 rockstars
6637 intake, straight pipe
full RR w/ fuel bowl delete.
rebuild coming soon
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post #4 of 54 Old 02-08-2012, 04:53 AM
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That's a good looking setup, cost a lot less that the kit I bought for mine lol!


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Forged Rods
ARP Head & Main Studs
Port, Polish, 3 way valve job
Beans 160cc Single Shot Injectors
DI Regulated Return/Oil X Over
DieselSite Coolant Filter
TS 6 position (Beans Tunes)
AFE stage 2 dry
Labonte Stage 3 Methanol Injection
Banks wheels, exhaust housing, wastegate, Intercooler
5in Turbo back Exhaust
Custom Built Trans w/ Billet Shafts
Mag-Hytec Trans Pan/Diff Covers
6.0 Trans Cooler
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post #5 of 54 Old 02-08-2012, 04:57 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jrz13 View Post
That's a good looking setup, cost a lot less that the kit I bought for mine lol!
Thanks! that's the whole reason I built mine.

Cody Ryan
03 f250 ccsb fx4 7.3
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4" RC lift
35x12.50 federals on 20x12 rockstars
6637 intake, straight pipe
full RR w/ fuel bowl delete.
rebuild coming soon
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post #6 of 54 Old 02-08-2012, 05:06 AM
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What psi did you set your regulator?


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Forged Rods
ARP Head & Main Studs
Port, Polish, 3 way valve job
Beans 160cc Single Shot Injectors
DI Regulated Return/Oil X Over
DieselSite Coolant Filter
TS 6 position (Beans Tunes)
AFE stage 2 dry
Labonte Stage 3 Methanol Injection
Banks wheels, exhaust housing, wastegate, Intercooler
5in Turbo back Exhaust
Custom Built Trans w/ Billet Shafts
Mag-Hytec Trans Pan/Diff Covers
6.0 Trans Cooler
SnowDogg EX90 plow
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post #7 of 54 Old 02-08-2012, 06:36 AM
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But, for that much money, what is going to be the advantage over the Riffraff FRx?

I'm really not sure,,,,, I guess in a heavily modded engine there would be an increase in flow and delivery that might be needed.... But, in a relatively stock set-up (something without 5K in mods say) I don't know if there's that need or not.

Is it more about eliminating the fuel bowl? How much is That really a hindrance to performance?

And, I have to say, I'm really turned off with all those barbed fittings a & hose clamps....

I see the logic of ending the deadhead, purging air, and better distributing fuel to the injectors. I like the idea. I put the FRx in, it looks good, I know it's working, took less than an hour to install. Before it came out the only alternative was a $600 RR, but now, I don't think I see the advantage

Riffraff Diesel: Fuel Rail Crossover™
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post #8 of 54 Old 02-08-2012, 06:53 AM
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My kit is from Diesel Innovations, the big difference in price is the prefitted hoses and fittings. Maybe a lil for the regulator and the liquid filled gauge.


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Forged Rods
ARP Head & Main Studs
Port, Polish, 3 way valve job
Beans 160cc Single Shot Injectors
DI Regulated Return/Oil X Over
DieselSite Coolant Filter
TS 6 position (Beans Tunes)
AFE stage 2 dry
Labonte Stage 3 Methanol Injection
Banks wheels, exhaust housing, wastegate, Intercooler
5in Turbo back Exhaust
Custom Built Trans w/ Billet Shafts
Mag-Hytec Trans Pan/Diff Covers
6.0 Trans Cooler
SnowDogg EX90 plow
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post #9 of 54 Old 02-08-2012, 06:53 AM
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yeah i've never seen a regulated return with hose clamps. i think it its gonna leak, hopefully it wont blow a line off and fuel hit the turbo or any part of the exhaust because if it does it aint gonna be pretty
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post #10 of 54 Old 02-08-2012, 06:59 AM Thread Starter
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I work with a hose and gasket company, we use hose clamps and crimp on fittings all the time. Never seen any problems out of em. About 99% of the crimp off fittings are pretty much the same setup as a torqued hose clamp.

Cody Ryan
03 f250 ccsb fx4 7.3
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4" RC lift
35x12.50 federals on 20x12 rockstars
6637 intake, straight pipe
full RR w/ fuel bowl delete.
rebuild coming soon
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