I have read some discussion on this topic but none have really answered my particular question rattling around in my head.
I will be putting a boost gauge on my truck and know that there is a AIH delete with a port for the boost tube. Do you delete the wires with this setup like the other delete plugs? I was kinda hoping to be able to keep the computer from recognizing any problems, even if they are hidden. I just dont want any hassles with going through emissions and such.
Maybe a few of you have done this mod and can suggest a way you did it.
Yes when you yank the AIH the power and ground wires are removed, but if you are concerned about the soft code that can be thrown there is a resistor you can install that will fool the computer into believing the AIH is still there. Sorry but I can't remember the ohm resister that you need, I just did this to my truck and read several threads about it but I don't have to worry about emissions so I just unhooked the wires and forgot about the resistor. I'm sure someone here knows or can at least point you in the right direction.
OK, so the Riffraff AIH delete. I want to use that because it is tapped already for the boost and just seems easy to use. It looks like from the instructions though you cant hook back up the wires so no code is thrown like you could if you just remove the stock AIH and cut the element off and reinstall.
Has anyone used the riffraff delete and how was it? Is it easy to find and install the boost in the other recommended way? Will emission pick up that soft code if the AIH wires are removed?
The Riffraff kit is basicaly what I did but I made my own out of a brass hydraulic plug and drilled and tapped it for the boost gauge line. Very simple install, maybe ten minutes. I completely removed the power wire from the selonoid and the ground from the head just to keep everything clean looking. As far as I know with it removed no CEL will show up (I haven't seen any and I haven't had a chance hook up to AE yet to check for codes) but there may be a soft code thrown, I don't know what that does for you since you have smog to worry about. I have read a thread somewhere about a resistor that you install in the wiring for the AIH that fools the computer into thinking that it is still there and wont throw the code. When you smog your truck do they actually hook it to a computer to read codes or just check for CEL. Just curious as we don't have to smog yet.:thumb:
Actually you bring up a good point. When I went through emissions it wasn't like with my old gasser. They just tested the particulate from the exhaust, it was that burst test thing. They didn't hook to the computer. I guess problem solved. What is the other line that can be tapped into for boost?
I'm guessing that you're talking about tapping into the MAP sensor line. That's also a pretty simple install. Locate the 1/4 inch rubber hose that runs from the spider across the engine to the passenger side to the MAP sensor. Cut the hose add a tee and plug in the boost line. easy. I personaly like the look of the boost line plumbed into the AIH plug... looks cleaner, and more factory like rather than added on.
T'ing the map line or removing the AIH is illegal if you take it in to smog it.
they will both fail a VISUAL inspection.
when i smogged my truck i unscrewed the AIH delete plug and put it to the side, and put the AIH back in the manifold.
people remove the AIH because it is restrictive, i have the riffraff tapped AIH delete and it works great.
dfuser sells a resistor that prevents a soft code from appearing if you remove the wires for the AIH.
T'ing the map line means cutting the line and inserting a T fitting into the line.
If you guys are all super concerned with hiding it, why not remove the spider and do a drill and tap on the back side?
No one could ever find that
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