JUST GOT THE DP F6 IN YESTERDAY AND...

[jordison460]

...daayum! VERY impressed! I'm tellin ya, I dont know if its just THAT EASY or DP is just THAT GOOD! I got the 60hp econo, 120 race, and 140 supersmoke. I know with the f6 i can re-program it with shift points and all, but what else would you guys recommend? I do have a stock trans. with approx. 97,000 on it. i would think it has few enough miles on it that a few upgrades would go a long way since this truck has never been chipped before. Im going to get the John Wood valve body for starters, and have already been running Amsoil in the trans, but whats worked best for you all? ANY help would be greatly appreciated!




I know smoke does not equal power, but its still fun haha

[jordison460]

oh, and one more thing...when i use the 120 or 140 race setting, when getting into higher rpms the turbo almost sounds like it starts to sputter as opposed to a clean whistle...kinda like a vibration in the turbo? any thoughts? thanks again guys!

[7.3Lariat]

Sounds like surge is what you are talking about in the high rpms

[jordison460]

Originally Posted by 7.3Lariat

Sounds like surge is what you are talking about in the high rpms

How can I fix that? At first it seemed like a rev limiter that affected the turbo first then the surge began. This may sound like a dump question, but would a boost fooler do anything to prevent that when boost gets too high?

[7.3Lariat]

Originally Posted by jordison460

How can I fix that? At first it seemed like a rev limiter that affected the turbo first then the surge began. This may sound like a dump question, but would a boost fooler do anything to prevent that when boost gets too high?

The common answers for fixing surge are either a ported housing or a wicked wheel for the compressor side. As for the boost fooler no that would possibly make it worse as it would make the truck think it is making less boost than it really is.

[bigsexy]

if it is surge a wicked wheel or stock obs 7.3 wheel will work, but you will lose a lb or to because it pushs less ait to compensate. Your best bet is the compressor housing, which ats isn't the only one who sales it. There all around the same price I think. As for the boost fooler, you only need that when your s.e.s light comes on from over boost codes. A good tuner will take care of that problem with tuning. If it falls on it's face when you s.e.s. Light comes on it could be from your truck going into limp mod from over boost. Mines never done it but some guys say it happens to them. Hopefully my knowledge will help you out.

[MONSTER_NRG]

just get a w.w. and save your money for something else.

[jordison460]

thanks for the replies guys...it really helps me out a lot! one more random question, i have 60econo, 120 race, and 140 aggressive tunes on my f6. For mileage, while on the highway if i use the 140hp tune, i can set my cruise control and get 22-23 mpg. If i use 60econo, I get roughly 15. is that normal? i have 39.5's and 4:88 gears...any info would help. thanks again all!!!

[Stroken7.3]

Are you hand calculating the milage? adjusting for tires? or is that what the lie-o-meter said you were getting? Supposedly the higher hp tunes will give you better mpg due to the timing, that is if you can keep your foot out of the go pedal.