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egt probe placeing

3K views 26 replies 3 participants last post by  BIGBLUE13 
#1 ·
I was wondering if anyone could send me an image an description on where you drilled an tapped for your egt probe I have never installed one before so I just want to be sure I'm doing it right I have a 02 f350 7.3l srw if it makes a difference thank you
 
#2 ·



Drill and tap... looking from under the truck.
 
#3 ·
ok so basically anywhere in the manifolds are fine then I'm assuming I just wanted to be sure thank you again
 
#4 ·
Anywhere near the location in the picture.
 
#6 ·


Passanger side if you want to run both sides...

 
#7 ·
Again I just want to say thanks for all the response so quick ill have to post some picks when I'm done I am running a volt gauge boosyt pressure and egt for my first 3 gauges since I just bought the truck
 
#8 ·
Again I just want to say thanks for all the response so quick ill have to post some picks when I'm done I am running a volt gauge boosyt pressure and egt for my first 3 gauges since I just bought the truck
 
#9 ·
Need to get a tranny gauge in there as well... The factory trans temp is WORTHLESS. It is more of an idiot light. When it moves, its too late.
 
#10 ·
Ok thanks for the warning ill just get a bigger pan w a threaded hole for another sensor then anything else you suggest for gauges other than those 4
 
#11 · (Edited)
No need for that, Ford left you a perfect port to install a tranny sender in...

Drivers side, just above the pan and in front of the shift cable...

 
#12 ·
Is that the factory port because I would prefer to have the one on the dash to still work that's just me lol but I'm gonna get a new pan anyway just because you can never have too much cool fluid in parts to be used I am a mechanic but work on cars so its alittle different that diesel but basics the same. Do you think its necessary to have diff temps and tranfer case temps as well or if your not pullin its not too big of deal
 
#13 · (Edited)
No, that port is used for trouble shooting when there are tranny issues. It is a pressure port. Infact I now have my trans drive oil pressure sender there and the tranny oil temp in the pan. Factory sender is in the valve body

You do NOT need a larger pan, the only thing a larger pan does is take longer to heat up, and longer to cool down. One of the Best if not the best 4r100 builders (BTS) does NOT use a large capacity pan. Just factory 4x4 pans.










What gauge do you want to run...:hehe:
 
#14 ·
Where did you get the 4 pod pillar and thank you once again fortakin time to help me and all of your advice
 
#15 ·
Any of the vendors here can get you the quad pod... Get the propod one, not the autometer one. The autometer one points all the gauges up, the propod one has the top one turned down a bit. Makes it easier to see.
 
#16 ·
Ok cool ill have too look into that and can you get a 5 gauge or is 4 the most because I have 5 gauges I have defenitly decided on I guess I could do the 4 and the one above steering column any preferences on gauge. Brand? I already have an appointment scheduled to have my head studs done so I have a little time to get my gauges and pod in
 
#17 ·
WHOOOOOOO there... I got to run, but unless your planning on hybrid injectors and a bigger turbo, there is NO need for studs on a 7.3... I'll check back later!
 
#18 ·
I don't think I'm gonna go with a biger turbo if I do its gonna be a garett 38 but my first thing with the turbo is goin to be an ats housing that has 4in inlet an outlets and stops turbo surge so that's mainly my turbo wrk that gonna be done I just don't wanna hurt anything
 
#19 ·
If you have no plans for injectors, save the $700-$900 in labor and parts for the studs. You do not need them. You do not need studs for a 7.3 until you get into the 400-450hp range or above 40# boost
 
#20 ·
OK and I'm assuming that's the same with main studs too right
 
#21 ·
Correct. You really do not need to do a thing to the motor to run a chip, intake and exhaust combo.

If you get bit and want to add some injectors, then we need to talk about motor internals...
 
#22 ·
The thing is I don't know much about injectors for the 7.3 so I really don't kno when I have to run them and what brand to upgrade with but before I do injectors I wanna get a stage 3 atd built tranny so I won't have anytroubles there if you can't tell I'm about preventitive maint.
 
#23 ·
You will need to install a new short block or at least rods when you really want to step up the power. You could do a set of stage 2 injectors or detune a set of mild hybrids and be ok with the rods you have, but anything built after 2001 has "PMR's" Powdered Metal Rods and they like to break above 375hp or so.
 
#24 ·
Ok soso basically I am gonna have to build another motor if I really wanna be up there I'm not too worried its my toy so... it all depends where did you find all this info id like to read up on it
 
#25 ·
Lots and lots and lots of reading, some diesel classes, some hands on crap:doh: and lots of time.

I have been a member of some of these forums since 99... This forum is one of my lowest post counts:rofl:

:icon_ford:

Use the search function and just spend a few days reading. PMR's HPOP, Turbos... just use basic search words and there is a ton of information out there.
 
#26 ·
And BTW, Do not be afraid to ask questions! nothing wrong with posting up, thats what the forums are for!
 
#27 ·
Ill have to do that but yea man thankyou again I just got into the powerstroke work but know aboutb trucks mostly cummins just because there so common around me but there 2 completley different worlds
 
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